essexpestcontrol

essexpestcontrol

New Member
ok, call me nieve, but I thought fitting a lift kit would be easy, obviously I was wrong,
I thought that if you undone the top nuts on the rear suspension, after jacking up the car and removing the wheel, that it would be a simple process of putting the spacer on top and doing everything up again:(

of course theres a plastic mud cover inside the arch, that'll need removing, although the plastic bits holding it in position did not want to budge, that's ok, I have self tappers to put it back

ok, so far so good, had a scissor jack under the drum to take the weight whilst I removed those nuts, with these removed I was able to drop the rear spring around 10mm so no way near enough room yet to slide a 40mm spacer in, now we hit a problem, the drive shaft is now hitting the exhaust, so I slip the rubber strap off, and we get this picture



so, the spring still needs to come down a good 30mm, and this is the exhaust removed from its rubber rear hanger????
I can see how its going to fit, so it all got put back together, until I can gather more info, maybe an idiots step by step guide,

do I need to undo/remove anything else before the spring will drop enough?

any ideas on what to do about the exhaust
 
How does the lift spacer fit to the top of the strut and how does this fit to the body?
I have never fitted one of a Freelander, so maybe I am wrong, but I would imagine it involves pretty much completely removing the struts - ie hub nut, drive shaft and the suspension arms. That trips off the tongue like an easy task and if you are lucky, it may well be, but I know that when I dropped out the right rear strut on mine to change some parts, pretty much everything was seized up solid, especially the long bolt holding the suspension arms to the hub. Nothing is ever going to get that undone short of oxy-acetylene, which will screw up the bushes etc, so I removed the inner ends of the arms instead.
 
these are the lift kits

rear 001 - YouTube


I did wonder whether I would need to remove wheel hub, but brake lines fitted to this and the strut would mean not alot of movement gained, unless removing the brake pipes also, which as you say is looking at more and more tecno, and not a job that I would want to do
 
Ok, hard to see in the video but it looks like just a spacer between the top of the strut and the bodyshell using the original studs to locate the spacer on the strut and studs on the spacer to fit to the shell.. I doubt if you will have enough room to fit these with the strut in place on the car.
 
Might be of use,

I fitted a new exhaust system a few weeks back and when you undo the clamp holding the back box onto the middle section you can twist the mid and back box to raise/lower it away from the drive shaft and subframe.
 
rossymtb said:
Might be of use,

I fitted a new exhaust system a few weeks back and when you undo the clamp holding the back box onto the middle section you can twist the mid and back box to raise/lower it away from the drive shaft and subframe.
Click to expand...

cheers, I did wonder bout that
 
I paid Terrain Vehicles to fit it. :D. Took them about 6 hours in the end including chopping away the inner wing and moving the fuel pipe. They did a good job.
Then there is the camber pins to fit and then the laser 4 wheel alignment.
 
Never came across that problem when I fitted mine, and mines 50mm. You need to take the shock assembly off all together. Then fit the spacer. Put the assembly back in, top first. Then bolt the bottom of the shock back in. Takes about 4 1/2 hrs Inc trimming the wings and moving the fuel lines.
 
JC600 said:
Never came across that problem when I fitted mine, and mines 50mm. You need to take the shock assembly off all together. Then fit the spacer. Put the assembly back in, top first. Then bolt the bottom of the shock back in. Takes about 4 1/2 hrs Inc trimming the wings and moving the fuel lines.
Click to expand...

cheers,

have put the picture up on facebook off road, and a lot of people are saying the exhaust looks wrong, and that it should pass over the driveshaft rather than under it?
anyone can have a quick look at theirs are post a picture
 
Yep exhaust is meant to go over the driveshafts!

Garage who fitted mine undid part of the rear subframe to drop the whole back end down, as they couldn't get the bottom strut bolt undone...obviously they did it on a 4 poster though so they could do that
 
SES88 said:
Yep exhaust is meant to go over the driveshafts!
Click to expand...

but.... as someone has pointed out on FB, surely if the zorst went over instead of under, and you bottom out the suspension, you'd end up with a squashed zorst pipe????

can members take a pic or two of theirs, just to ease my mind
 
my eggsauce goes over the subframe

it was a tw@t to thread through but the old one was routed this way anorl
 
essexpestcontrol said:
but.... as someone has pointed out on FB, surely if the zorst went over instead of under, and you bottom out the suspension, you'd end up with a squashed zorst pipe????

can members take a pic or two of theirs, just to ease my mind
Click to expand...

But if the suspension is at full travel, it'll rip the exhaust apart? Goes over the non-articulating subframe I think
 
The bar on the bottom left of Jamie's pic is the same bar as the foreground of your pic
 
The exhaust goes UNDER the driveshaft then immediately kicks up over the rear crossmember of the subframe. Its not physically possible for the exhaust to fit above the driveshaft.
 
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