gallaghb

Active Member

• Nov 8, 2012

• #1

Hi, I know this is a common issue, searched on here but not found the answer everyone else seems to need to adjust square adjsuter on drum but have done that. Been trying to adjust for last couple hours following haynes manual but not had any luck.

I think the issue is the cable adjustment as I have turned the square adjuster just slightly and hand brake completely locked on, so backed it off 1/4 of a turn, but still no hand brake even when I pull it right up.

What do I need to turn to adjust the cable? Couple of photos below not sure which one it is to adjust cable?

MOT due in a months time and got no handbrake at all!

 

Winnet

New Member

• Nov 8, 2012

• #2

At the bottom bracket there are two nuts, one either side. You need to adjust those so that the amount of threaded sleeve running through the bracket changes. Once done you should be able to use the adjuster on the back of the drum for tweaking.

But getting to the nuts is a pain and cong out from under the landy to try the brake to go back under gets tiresome.....

G

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Nov 8, 2012

• #3

i would add that you set shoes at the drum first wind on till it binds then back till drum turns free ,then adjust cable ,an old or cheap 19mm combination spanner cut in half with a slot cut in ring end to go over cable makes it easier

 

gallaghb

Active Member

• Nov 8, 2012

• #4

Thanks. I loosened off the first nut on the lower bracket, the one on the outside of the bracket. I can't get a spanner on the second nut though as there is hardly any room around it as the bracket is in the way. Think it was 19mm, sounds like I might need to invest in a super slim spanner to get in there!

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Nov 8, 2012

• #5

it is if you make a special spanner as i said needs to be ring end though

 

gallaghb

Active Member

• Nov 8, 2012

• #6

Oops just saw your post re cutting a slot in an old ring spanner. Will give that a go, sounds like best idea. Cheers

 

Winnet

New Member

• Nov 9, 2012

• #7

Need to mod a spammer like that myself.

G

 

L

Litch

Well-Known Member

• Nov 9, 2012

• #8

I find that just keeping the thread clear & lubricated there is no need for a spanner inside the bracket, modified or otherwise.
I undo the nut on the outside of the bracket with a normal spanner and then turn the other one by hand, when in the correct position I do up the outer one with the spanner and bingo, job done.
Did it again only last week, really isn't a problem.

Looking at the photos are you doing this from the underside, can't you access it from under the drivers seat or is yours a later model?

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Nov 9, 2012

• #9

Litch said:

I find that just keeping the thread clear & lubricated there is no need for a spanner inside the bracket, modified or otherwise.
I undo the nut on the outside of the bracket with a normal spanner and then turn the other one by hand, when in the correct position I do up the outer one with the spanner and bingo, job done.
Did it again only last week, really isn't a problem.

Looking at the photos are you doing this from the underside, can't you access it from under the drivers seat or is yours a later model?

Click to expand...

true ,but most dont ,and most arent when we buy them so modded spanner helps