Stuballsed

Stuballsed

New Member
Bit of a dumb question I think. Just cleared half of Borden out of me handbrake drum, cleaned it up and put new shoes and spings in while I was there.

Not sure how to correctly adjust the cable though:confused: See pic below from Rave.

The 'cone' No. 9 is wielded to the nut. This was about an inch from the rubber gromit when I started!. Im assuming this is just a lock nut set up and should be screwed right up to the gromit and the adjuster is the other nut on the end of the rubber covered cable.?

However, when I try to move what I think is the adjuster it just seems to just wind up the cable a bit and then twist back, so no adjustment:confused:. When I wound up what I think is the lock nut tight to the gromit the cable completely tightened up, not even 1 click on the handbrake:confused: Sorted it for now by loosening the lock nut.

Any ideas what I'm doing wrong:confused:
 

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Why not use the adjuster on the drum?? It's a square peg that adjusts the cone. I assume you know that right??
 
COA said:
Why not use the adjuster on the drum?? It's a square peg that adjusts the cone. I assume you know that right??
Click to expand...

That just adjusts the shoes not the cable. The 'cone' is at the handbrake lever just behind the seat base panel. Cheers for the thoughts though.:)
 
So, new cable has arrived.

Looking at a nice clean shiney one in daylight! Looks like the adjuster is the nut and cone thingumy and the other nut, partly covered by the rubber cable outer is just to hold the cable whilst tightening the cone/nut. Hmmm.

Still looks a bit odd cause the threaded section looks like it gets pulled throught the rubber gromet/tube and back when the handbrake is pulled on and off.

Have I got this right?
 

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only inner wire moves .adjusting thread makes outer cable longer so reducing length of inner wire,lubricate ruibber before pushing through lever assembly
 
jamesmartin said:
only inner wire moves .adjusting thread makes outer cable longer so reducing length of inner wire,lubricate ruibber before pushing through lever assembly
Click to expand...

Ok, cheers. I now realise the problem I had was the adjuster had been backed right off so when the hand brake was applied, the threaded section was pulled through the rubber and was getting stuck there when the hand brake was released, hence the lever springing back up. Thightening it up appear to have cured this, but I may swap out with a new cable soon anyway now I have it.

Cheers
 
I've managed to adjsut my handbrake at the lever end but I'm unsure how far it can be adjusted before it's gone too far. Is there a danger the thread could fall out of the adjusting nut and not go back in?

I can get about 5 clicks on the lever but on steep hills it won't stop the car from moving fully. Is it worth checking the drum and pads for wear?

This is all on a 2005 110 td5 with around 60k on the clock.
 
You need to try the square adjuster on the back of the handbrake drum - will move the shoes out so they look up after 3 - 5 ratchets
 
Alpinelandy said:
I've managed to adjsut my handbrake at the lever end but I'm unsure how far it can be adjusted before it's gone too far. Is there a danger the thread could fall out of the adjusting nut and not go back in?

I can get about 5 clicks on the lever but on steep hills it won't stop the car from moving fully. Is it worth checking the drum and pads for wear?

This is all on a 2005 110 td5 with around 60k on the clock.
Click to expand...

As they said, but yes, I'd watch how much you wind up the adjuster or you could come off the end of the thread. The handbrake shoes don't wear like hub break shoes (at least on my 300tdi). They only lock up at park, and rub a bit. Cable stretch sounds more likely than shoe wear. IMHO:) Adjust at the drum, but stick a new cable in your parts box just in case:)
 
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