Kevin Winter · Feb 17, 2011

My mini run of bad luck continues - I'm 90% sure the rear halfshaft has gone. I lost drive a couple of times, then regained it after lifting off, then lost all drive (thought the clutch was going at first) and pulled up stopped. Dropping the diff on got it moving (just a few yards to the nearest layby to await the AA).
The dust cover on the left rear wheel has gone, and the end of the shaft is sticking out.
Presumably, not an impossible fix - but two questions:

1 My dad, who normally watches over my shoulder and corrects when I'm about to do something stupid, is away on hols. Is it something an amatuer spanner wielder can do easily on his own?

2 Which part do I need - the Landy is a 300tdi 110, 1995? Left rear halfshaft..

Thanks again in advance!

The Mad Hat Man · Feb 17, 2011

dust cover off is not a problem.
remove half shafts, stick it in difflock and drive on - it isnt a problem to keep yu immobile.

yu shud have pm'd LZ international rescue!

Shifty1962 · Feb 18, 2011

Sounds like the drive flange has come off allowing the half shaft to spin and not drive the wheel. The half shaft may also have slid out of the diff.

Can you turn the half shaft by hand? If so it has come out of the diff. If not it is still engaged in the diff. Dont try to drive it with the shaft in place as it may damage the diff. If you only have a short way to go I would carefully remove the half shaft, plug the axle with an old T shirt or such like then with centre diff lock engaged you would be able to drive the vehicle. Take it easy and just be aware that you may loose axle oil if the temporary bung comes out. Get a new drive flange and gasket. Clean everything up. Put it all back together and Robs your Mothers Brother. Check the other side for tightness as well.

Its not uncommon for the pikeys to loosen the drive flange bolts and pull the shafts out when they need one. Did it many times in the Army when we needed them or just to have a laugh. We also had a set of drive flanges with no splines which looked OK but never drove the wheels. Hours of fun watching people trying to work out what was wrong.

The Mad Hat Man · Feb 18, 2011

Someone on here had a garage full of drive flanges. Was giving them away (almost)

.

Kevin Winter · Feb 18, 2011

After stripping, turns out the bearing gone, and I just didn't realise how fasr the HS sticks out.....

The Mad Hat Man · Feb 18, 2011

that wouldnt have lost you drive tho...

bevhelee · Feb 18, 2011

Trewy offered to help me out with a couple when mine stripped, ended up welding them, welded 4 strips along the shaft and then hammered the drive flanges in place with a really big hammer then welded round the flange to stop the shaft pulling out.

Lee

Kevin Winter · Feb 18, 2011

Got the wheel off - but the star bolts holding the brake caliper are rusted and being f'ing awkward.... any suggestions for persuading them off...?

ratty · Feb 18, 2011

Kevin Winter said:
Got the wheel off - but the star bolts holding the brake caliper are rusted and being f'ing awkward.... any suggestions for persuading them off...?

Have you tried singing to them?

This is a common problem. The chances are you are going to damage the heads on the bolts while you are removing them so make sure you have replacements to hand.

Make sure you use a suitable socket that fits correctly (13mm 12 point socket). Some 'plus gas' may help but be careful where you're spraying it. If the head of the bolt starts chewing itself up, the next step is to get yourself some rounded nut removers before chewing the head up too much..

andy mcd · Feb 18, 2011

if the 13mm starts to slip hammer a 1/2 socket on and use a big breaker bar. That was the only way i could get mine of to change the caliper a few weeks ago. I didnt go down the wd40 road as i didnt want all of the crap to get stuck to it

Kevin Winter · Feb 19, 2011

andy mcd said:
if the 13mm starts to slip hammer a 1/2 socket on and use a big breaker bar. That was the only way i could get mine of to change the caliper a few weeks ago. I didnt go down the wd40 road as i didnt want all of the crap to get stuck to it

Cheers for the suggestion - long past 13mm, but 12mm, WD40 and a breaker bar worked a treat. Even if it slightly awkward working around the spring.
To quote the Haynes Manual"loosen the ratianing bolts and remove the caliper". Such simple instructions they give you...

PS Finished SECONDS before the heavens opened.....

andy mcd · Feb 20, 2011

If you support it on stands, remove the wheel and lower the axle , there is plenty of room to fit and extension bar through the spring giving plenty of room to use the breaker bar..

Glad its off, i always replace the bolts when i remove a caliper or front swivel

bustersbus · Feb 20, 2011

And always use thread lock on the caliper bolts when stickin' back in

Kevin Winter · Feb 20, 2011

Right folks - have now dismantled the hub, discovered it's shot and replaced in. Currently, everything is sat in bits waiting for re-assembly. Got a new set of bearings (guys from Safari fitted them into a spare hub they found for me).
Only thing left to wait for is picking up a dab of loctite in the morning (thank f it's half term and I'm a teacher)
One small concern - the stub axlehas some scoring from where the old bearings broke up. It's confined to the centre between the bearing cages and seems not to be a problem. Anyone want to tell me it isn't?

andy mcd · Feb 20, 2011

It depends is it wear or deep scrapes/gouges ??
Is the wear excessive ?
You dont need locktite if you use new bolts thats what the blue bit at the bottom of the bolt is. If the bolts dont have it then use thread lock but all the bolts i buy have it

Kevin Winter · Feb 20, 2011

andy mcd said:
It depends is it wear or deep scrapes/gouges ??
Is the wear excessive ?
You dont need locktite if you use new bolts thats what the blue bit at the bottom of the bolt is. If the bolts dont have it then use thread lock but all the bolts i buy have it

Nothing too deep (all <mm) and confined to the centre (where it doesn't contact anything anyway?).
Not using new bolts, as the old ones are in reasonable condition...

andy mcd · Feb 20, 2011

Personally i would use new bolts, the 12 sided ones are a bugger to get off when there rusted up, so everytime i remove them i replace them, there less than £2 so not worth the hassel the next time,

I would just clean it up with a bit of emery paper to make sure there arnt any rough edges

Kevin Winter · Feb 21, 2011

All back together now - thanks folks for all the advice. Decided to keep the existing stub, as it all went on fine and snug, and have taken the chance to have a good clean round whilst the wheel was off. Only hassle was the fact that we lost a dust cap (will buy a new one if daylight doesn't reveal it) and that we broke a 14mm 1/2" 12point socket - and three local suppliers say they can't get them anymore - anyone know a source.

bustersbus · Feb 21, 2011

Kevin Winter said:
All back together now - thanks folks for all the advice. Decided to keep the existing stub, as it all went on fine and snug, and have taken the chance to have a good clean round whilst the wheel was off. Only hassle was the fact that we lost a dust cap (will buy a new one if daylight doesn't reveal it) and that we broke a 14mm 1/2" 12point socket - and three local suppliers say they can't get them anymore - anyone know a source.

Halfords ? ...

Halfords | Halfords Professional Socket 14mm 1/2" Drive

jamesmartin · Feb 22, 2011

there called bihex sockets

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