Spent the weekend getting the replacement box on and putting it all back together.
After dragging the gearbox under the disco on a pallet and lining it up, I tied it to the hoist on 2 ropes one front one back. This allowed it to be tilted front and back in order to get everything in place.
I was advised that it's vital for the torque convertor to be fitted correctly to the spline on gearbox, which goes on effectly in 3steps. Once it's on right you can measure the gap as follows:
According to the serial number on mine the gap should be 18mm
Taken from here:
Land Rover Owner • View topic - ZF4HP22 Auto Box Re-Fitting
A couple of points, incase someone can save time from my mistakes
- Make sure the locating spacers are in place on the flywheel before fitting AND there's only one on either side.
After bolting it to the engine I realised that the n/side had two spacers (one attached to engine from the old box and one from the replacement box) which prevented the gearbox from meeting up flush with the engine.
After refitting the hoist, pulling the box away from the engine and removing one of the spacers I had to do it all over again on the other side!!!
-You need to drop/tilt the rear of the box to get access to the 2 longer bolt holes on the top of bellhousing, these bolts hold brackets for the wiring loom n'all.
It also helps to tilt when refitting the top oil cooler pipe.
Once attached to the engine I fitted the xmember and brackets to the box, lifted it up with the hoist and then fitted the xmember to the motor.
Next step was bolting the torque convertor to the drive plate, there are 4 bolts which need thread locking and fitting to 39Nm (if I remember). Take care not to drop the bolts inside the flywheel casing or it's box off again! The drive plate needs to be turned on the crank to find each if the holes, then reach your hand through starter motor aperture to turn the torque convertor in order to line up with the threaded holes.
Had to remove the pipe between airbox and maf to get the torque wrench in:
The rest was fairly straight forwards, just a case of putting everthing back where it belongs (gearbox wiring, gear selector cable, kick down cable, oil cooler pipes, front exhaust, props, ARB, starter motor, turbo hoses, rad hoses, center console etc etc). The replacement handbrake which came with the box needed slackening off, just a 17mm socket on rear of the drum.
The rivets which were drilled out of the selector/gaitor plate I refitted with cable ties:
Glued the broken cig lighter bracket whilst it was off:
and a long hex socket helps to get the nut back on the gear selector mechanism:
.
Finally I filled her up with Dextron2..
(along with GL4 in the transfer box)
SO... the question is does it work??????
It's still on axle stands, BUT it ran through fine in all gears (now including reverse!!). Tomorrow I shall build up the courage to take it out for a spin.
My only corncern at the moment is gear oil level - I ran through from park to 1 and back, stuck it in N but the dipstick was showing it to be over full.
Can't really understand that as Ive only put 8L in so far and Ive read somewhere that it takes 9.5??
Anyhoo shall recheck tomorrow..
