hi all have been a member for a while now but mainly on the series page having been doing up a series 2a which is now on the road and running .what i am looking for is somthing to replace my mg zzt estate for pulling my caravan so with about £2700 in total would i get a half decent 2.5 dse and what is a must to check for before buying i am pretty decent on the spanners but dont want to buy somthing that i cant use or is going to be expensive to fix straight away .going to look at a 1998 dse with 155k on the clock but not in to much of a rush to buy
Try this if you're going to see one.
Range Rover P38 DHSE Checklist
Electrics
• Both keys present and working; deadlock, relock, memory
• Electric Seats (memory settings if fitted)
• Heated Seat Elements (should fully heat within 3 minutes)
• Heated front and rear windscreen
• Message Centre (150 different reports)
o Speed Warning system, trip functions
• Dashboard Panel Lighting (dimming) and interior lighting
• Horn
• Clock
• Power windows, sunroof and mirrors
• All external Lighting systems, including reverse light on low range
o Lighting delay
o Hazards
• Washers and Wipers (3 settings, including variable intermittent). With wipers on, engage reverse – rear wiper should activate
• Air Suspension
o All 4 settings work independently (Park, no brakes, doors shut)
o Vehicle is level
o Inhibit switch
o Vehicle should raise from ‘access’ to ‘off road’ in 30 seconds
• Cruise Control
• Audio System
o CD player
o Radio/Cassette
o Tone Controls
• Climate Control System
o Confirm full temperature range.
o Full aircon vs full heat on opposite sides
o All fan speeds and fan flow positions functional
Transmission
• Full High-Range
• Full Low- Range (flashing lights and sound upon selection)
• Smooth changes in both transfer settings
• Sport Mode (High-Range)
• Manual Mode (Low-Range)
• Kickdown
Mechanical Systems
• Fuel cap release
• Bonnet release
• ABS (Light for system should remain on upon ignition, and off after 5 metres of driving
• Traction Control (This cannot be tested except off road, but if ABS is fully functional it should be working)
Age Testing
• No rust. Range Rover is mostly Al-27 (Most likely place for rust is below lower tailgate)
• Air Springs (some coarseness is normal)
• Coolant fully contained; no leaks
• Coolant clean, any unusual material could indicate Head Gasket failure (Most common fault of BMW M51)
• Off road damage beneath (Land Rovers are tough, so anything visible could have been serious)
• No smoke or steam on hot or cold starts
• Exhaust in good condition; Catalytic converters should not rattle
Range Rover P38 DHSE Checklist
Electrics
• Both keys present and working; deadlock, relock, memory
• Electric Seats (memory settings if fitted)
• Heated Seat Elements (should fully heat within 3 minutes)
• Heated front and rear windscreen
• Message Centre (150 different reports)
o Speed Warning system, trip functions
• Dashboard Panel Lighting (dimming) and interior lighting
• Horn
• Clock
• Power windows, sunroof and mirrors
• All external Lighting systems, including reverse light on low range
o Lighting delay
o Hazards
• Washers and Wipers (3 settings, including variable intermittent). With wipers on, engage reverse – rear wiper should activate
• Air Suspension
o All 4 settings work independently (Park, no brakes, doors shut)
o Vehicle is level
o Inhibit switch
o Vehicle should raise from ‘access’ to ‘off road’ in 30 seconds
• Cruise Control
• Audio System
o CD player
o Radio/Cassette
o Tone Controls
• Climate Control System
o Confirm full temperature range.
o Full aircon vs full heat on opposite sides
o All fan speeds and fan flow positions functional
Transmission
• Full High-Range
• Full Low- Range (flashing lights and sound upon selection)
• Smooth changes in both transfer settings
• Sport Mode (High-Range)
• Manual Mode (Low-Range)
• Kickdown
Mechanical Systems
• Fuel cap release
• Bonnet release
• ABS (Light for system should remain on upon ignition, and off after 5 metres of driving
• Traction Control (This cannot be tested except off road, but if ABS is fully functional it should be working)
Age Testing
• No rust. Range Rover is mostly Al-27 (Most likely place for rust is below lower tailgate)
• Air Springs (some coarseness is normal)
• Coolant fully contained; no leaks
• Coolant clean, any unusual material could indicate Head Gasket failure (Most common fault of BMW M51)
• Off road damage beneath (Land Rovers are tough, so anything visible could have been serious)
• No smoke or steam on hot or cold starts
• Exhaust in good condition; Catalytic converters should not rattle
I was pretty determined not to miss anything when I was getting mine, so I drew that up
I would add.
The brake accumulator. This shoulod not run all the time.
As it is for towing, try and put it under pressure by working it hard up a hill or cruise down a motorway. all should be around 12.00. watch the temp carefully.
check the metal brake pipes front to rear and the rear over axle.
there is a lot, take your time..
The brake accumulator. This shoulod not run all the time.
As it is for towing, try and put it under pressure by working it hard up a hill or cruise down a motorway. all should be around 12.00. watch the temp carefully.
check the metal brake pipes front to rear and the rear over axle.
there is a lot, take your time..
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
Over heating take it up a steep hill when warm temp gauge should be between 1/4 and1/2 way.oil cooler pipes engine/ gearbox have a habit of leaking . When car is hot make sure when restarting glow plugs don't come on and restarts easy listen for rattle in timing chain front of engine where fan is .
well been looked test drove and walked away it needed tyres .small panel on nearside rear bumper hanging off .central locking not working radio .u/s brake disks looked shot .had the spring conversion .didnt drive to bad no warning messages on dash brakepeddle very hard but did stop it just think it would cost me a bit to put right so going to look at a 1995 2.5 manual tomorrow but at a 3ooo asking price and not leather . i have been looking for a price guide but at this age it will have to be on condition and service history
For a 1995 at that price with no leather or toys, it would have to be pretty much mint.
If you can try and find a good post 1999MY diesel as they have had a few tweaks and generally better to live with....
Remember the Manual version will require a bit of a bootfull and clutch work when towing or up hill...
The diesel is much better suited to the auto'box....
The Diesel doesn't come on song until after 2100rpm or thereabouts, so if you are towing or uphills it will require a good prod to get going.
didnt know that the auto was better for the deisel and i thought 3000 grand for a 95 was at the top end the one i looked at today was auto but would of been a bit of a project just been there with the series 2 dont think the old women would stand for another landrover in bits on the drive but going to look at as many as i can before i part with any cash
Can be.....there are shortcuts....read www.rangerovers.net and look in the HEVAC repair pages....
It can be done, but is fiddly and requires a bit of paitience....
Look at as many as you can, there are plenty about so choose wisely and never buy one with a fault unless you know what is involved in repairing it...!!!
