LandyMan · Jan 13, 2016

Hi,

so my gearbox has come off for a new clutch to be fitted.

Unfortunately there is a bad leak between the gearbox and transfer box.

The mechanic that is doing the clutch doesn't want to fix the oil leak because he isn't comfortable with splitting the 2 boxes. He wants to send it off to a specialist to fix.

How much of a job is it and how much should it cost to fix the oil leak between the 2 boxes?

Is it just a matter of taking the 2 apart, fitting a new seal, and putting them back together?

Thanks

markomate2 · Jan 13, 2016

Hi What exactly was wrong with the clutch? Is the DMF ok?
He "diagnosed" a faulty clutch before he took it apart but he doesnt feel confident enough to split a gear box.
Having said that, Ashcroft took three attempts to fix my gearbox leaks so maybe he has a point!
Mark

LandyMan · Jan 13, 2016

I sent my car in to have a new clutch fitted.

He has told me that the transfer box is leaking in several places.

He doesn't want to take them apart, especially the transfer box.

As the gearbox and transfer box need to come out for the new clutch to be fitted he said it's worth getting it sorted, so I don;t have a future bill of having to take them off the car again.

it kind of makes sense to get it done while they're off the car.

But I was just wondering what work is involved? how many oil seals are there? etc

thanks

jamesmartin · Jan 13, 2016

quite an easy job once they are both on the floor to split them drain t/box first though,there are 6 bolts/nuts, holding them both together 2 on drivers side from front to back (13mm socket )4 from rear to front on lhs and top, undo diff lock and high low linkage then lever the 2 boxes apart, its rare for g/box rear seal to leak ,but highly likely for intermediate shaft where it comes through front face of t/box, if you change rear g/box seal collar needs to come off its a tight fit and needs special tool or pullers,garter spring needs greasing in other wise it most likely will pop off when you tap seal in, t/box input seal (icv100000) is best fitted with a smear of loctite on its outer side as it can be easy to dislodge without, if its shaft undo nut on rear side knock shaft through enough to remove replace oring,run a bead of rtv silicone sealant box side of o ring before tapping back through

LandyMan · Jan 14, 2016

jamesmartin said:
quite an easy job once they are both on the floor to split them drain t/box first though,there are 6 bolts/nuts, holding them both together 2 on drivers side from front to back (13mm socket )4 from rear to front on lhs and top, undo diff lock and high low linkage then lever the 2 boxes apart, its rare for g/box rear seal to leak ,but highly likely for intermediate shaft where it comes through front face of t/box, if you change rear g/box seal collar needs to come off its a tight fit and needs special tool or pullers,garter spring needs greasing in other wise it most likely will pop off when you tap seal in, t/box input seal (icv100000) is best fitted with a smear of loctite on its outer side as it can be easy to dislodge without, if its shaft undo nut on rear side knock shaft through enough to remove replace oring,run a bead of rtv silicone sealant box side of o ring before tapping back through

Thanks James. i've been quoted between £200 and £300, thats taking the boxes to someone, to strip down and fix.

jamesmartin · Jan 14, 2016

LandyMan said:
Thanks James. i've been quoted between £200 and £300, thats taking the boxes to someone, to strip down and fix.

not cheap for what you need, but i guess theres not that many garages willing

LandyMan · Jan 21, 2016

jamesmartin said:
not cheap for what you need, but i guess theres not that many garages willing

got it sorted.

New clutch, cylinders, flywheel, gearbox and transfer box sealed etc...

£950 altogether.

Not a bad price i think, and saved me the hassle.

LandyMan · Feb 5, 2016

t/box still leaking. spoke to garage, they're going to refund me the money for all the work done on the t/box

Gazbo · Feb 7, 2016

LandyMan said:
t/box still leaking.

Quite possible they replaced both the output shafts seals and the input shaft seals and missed the most common leak source, the intermediate shaft "o" ring seals, you could be 99.9% sure that is where the bulk of the leakage was/is.

LandyMan · Feb 8, 2016

I didn't have time to look over the weekend, will have to wait till this weekend coming up.

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