houli99

New Member
Hows it goin, Iam a virgin on this site so be gentle.

I changed a whinney pump and connected the lines back wrong. It drove but noticed a lack of power, had put the white and green wrong way round. It wont start after being fine, changed pump again line right way round. still wont start.

Have I f**ked something up, flooded engine or ... any ideas ?
would like to know if i screwed somthing up so i can rule it out and try
stuff below.


read other threads about air getting in, changing fuel filter etc.

thanks
 
you probably need to purge the air from fuel lines, turn ignition on so pump runs then pump accelerator 5 times the ecu should then take over and purge it , you may have to go through it a few times though
 
You'll know if the ecu is purgning the pump as the mil light should flash when you have "pumped" the pedal five times and as said before you may have to do this several times
 
Hows it goin, Iam a virgin on this site so be gentle.

I changed a whinney pump and connected the lines back wrong. It drove but noticed a lack of power, had put the white and green wrong way round. It wont start after being fine, changed pump again line right way round. still wont start.

Have I f**ked something up, flooded engine or ... any ideas ?
would like to know if i screwed somthing up so i can rule it out and try
stuff below.


read other threads about air getting in, changing fuel filter etc.

thanks

To purge the fuel system of air all you need to do is turn the ignition key to pos. II and leave it for approx 3 mins. After that start the engine.

No need to pump the pedal 5 times or any other bollocks - I seriously don't know where this myth came from, but it wasn't the LR workshop manual.
 
to purge the fuel system of air all you need to do is turn the ignition key to pos. Ii and leave it for approx 3 mins. After that start the engine.

No need to pump the pedal 5 times or any other bollocks - i seriously don't know where this myth came from, but it wasn't the lr workshop manual.

agreed !
 
To purge the fuel system of air all you need to do is turn the ignition key to pos. II and leave it for approx 3 mins. After that start the engine.

No need to pump the pedal 5 times or any other bollocks - I seriously don't know where this myth came from, but it wasn't the LR workshop manual.

Dont know if it is bollocks or not but mine didnt purge until i pressed pedal 5 times. i heard it go through the motions but nothing when i left the ignition on for 3 mins.
 
Dont know if it is bollocks or not but mine didnt purge until i pressed pedal 5 times. i heard it go through the motions but nothing when i left the ignition on for 3 mins.


The in-tank fuel pump is switched on by the ignition pos. II - if it doesn't then something is wrong.
 
The in-tank fuel pump is switched on by the ignition pos. II - if it doesn't then something is wrong.

Well im sorry i just checked out your proceedure and your right its bollocks. dunno what mine was doing but on 5th press of pedal you could hear it purge eml was flashing. dont mind so long as its running.
 
To purge the fuel system of air all you need to do is turn the ignition key to pos. II and leave it for approx 3 mins. After that start the engine.

No need to pump the pedal 5 times or any other bollocks - I seriously don't know where this myth came from, but it wasn't the LR workshop manual.

is it the same bollix you were talking about last week? saying the viscous fan bolted to the end of the crankshaft on a td5,lol


7th-May-2012, 15:21

thebiglad
Senior Member

Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Central France
Posts: 4,572
Re: play in viscous fan assembly
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnlad
yeah and they have a bearing in the timing case


But there isn't a timing case as such on a TD5? The viscous coupling goes on the end of the crankshaft.
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To purge the fuel system of air all you need to do is turn the ignition key to pos. II and leave it for approx 3 mins. After that start the engine.

No need to pump the pedal 5 times or any other bollocks - I seriously don't know where this myth came from, but it wasn't the LR workshop manual.
I think with a little research you'll find it's not bollocks, this procedure is programmed into the engine ECU for service technicians to prime and purge the fuel system manually and you won't find anything about it in the hand book as it's only supposed to be used by trained and qualified people!
 
I think with a little research you'll find it's not bollocks, this procedure is programmed into the engine ECU for service technicians to prime and purge the fuel system manually and you won't find anything about it in the hand book as it's only supposed to be used by trained and qualified people!


I didn't say the handbook, I said the LR workshop manual.
 
is it the same bollix you were talking about last week? saying the viscous fan bolted to the end of the crankshaft on a td5,lol


7th-May-2012, 15:21

thebiglad
Senior Member

Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Central France
Posts: 4,572
Re: play in viscous fan assembly
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnlad
yeah and they have a bearing in the timing case


But there isn't a timing case as such on a TD5? The viscous coupling goes on the end of the crankshaft.
__________________
'96 Defender 110 TDi 300 - "Lexie"
'10 Triumph Bonneville T100
'03 Citroen Picasso 2.0ltr HDi
2005 Rover 75 Connoisseur Tourer CD



Meeeeeoooooooow !

Yes you're right - I cocked up.

But I didn't with regard to the purge procedure - it's clearly shown in RAVE.
 
sorry for causing such a hornets nest. my original question is still unanswered, could I have caused some damage by hoses being connected in wrong order ? i.e flow return etc..

I tried all given tips today, no joy. I changed fuel filter, fuel was black in filter. could this be a result of hoses connected wrong or just the fact disco was unloved by previous owner ? also what happens when you flood the engine ?

thanks again
 
mixing the fuel lines could cause various damages..depends on which lines u mixed/fitted on the wrong place... there are a lot of variations one worst than another ...e.g. if u swapped 8 with 9 u gave high presure against the air bleed valve and created a kind of suction back from the fuel rail... see the scheme and identify the correct pipes, fit them well, purge the system then try again(and pray before that maybe u didnt ruin the pump or something;)) see attachment

about the purging procedure... i made a lot of research and still didnt find an answer... like why do u need trained and qualified people to push the throttle 5 times:D ...or what happens if u push it 4 times...or 6 times:frusty: ... let's move this debate to it's origin and have a friendly(or unfriendly;)) chat there if anybody wants that ...but with arguments please http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f50/best-purging-procedure-141517.html
 

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Last edited:
got disco fired up today by towing it.

Drained fuel which was blue/black in color, probably as a result of hoses being connected wrongly to fuel pump. Diesel in fuel filter was like tar.

Purged air several hunderd times by all manner and means discussed, it still would not start. Towed it and she started first go.

So thanks to all for their advice, til next time
:clap2::clap2::clap2:

houli99 out
 
got disco fired up today by towing it.

Drained fuel which was blue/black in color, probably as a result of hoses being connected wrongly to fuel pump. Diesel in fuel filter was like tar.

Purged air several hunderd times by all manner and means discussed, it still would not start. Towed it and she started first go.

So thanks to all for their advice, til next time
:clap2::clap2::clap2:

houli99 out


I assume you put in a new fuel filter?
 

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