dogsNsurfboards

dogsNsurfboards

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My main question is how to to evaluate Freelander AWD after car has been lifted.

2003 Freelander 2.5L has been towing my 23' boat trailer for the past 2.5 years. Boat weight may have been a little over the towing limit but things felt in control. 4.5K pounds..."a little...;)"

I look to be having front driveshaft issues and possibly AWD issues now that I cannot tow boat out of water without 5 friend pushing assistance.

Car is on jackstands and rear wheels do not spin. Should they spin? I believe I was told 1 rear-wheel should spin?

The diagnosis of front Driveshaft replacement came from an old british mechanic but I am trying to find if I also need rear maintenance. I have a few mechanics that can fix front driveshaft but i wanted to check AWD before buying the part(s).

Thanks a ton for information!
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This is well documented, suggest you search this forum and YouTube for Wheel Up Test. But if you have the car on stands with all four wheels in the air, put the car into first with the engine ticking over and all four wheels should spin (assuming you don't have brake binding issues).
 
I'm sure you have but for the avoidance of any doubt - you have released the handbrake?

With all four wheels off the ground, the engine running and car in 1st gear, look underneath the car and look at the VCU.

- If the propshaft from the gearbox to the VCU is not turning, you have a knackered IRD. You usually know when these go by the noise they make.
- If the propshaft from the gearbox to the VCU is turning, but the propshaft from the VCU the rear diff is not then you have a well knackered VCU.
- If both props are turning then you have a well knackered rear diff. Again you usually know when these go.

Can you rotate the rear wheels freely when the car is off the ground, when you turn one does the other turn? It is unusual for a VCU to fail "open", normally they "tighten".

Hippo's test video is regarded as one of the best "home" tests of a VCU - it will give you a good indication as to the condition of your VCU.
 
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If you spin one rear wheel with both in the sir the other should spin in the opposite direction.
 
If all 4 wheels are in the air, engine running and in gear - at least 1 rear wheel MUST turn regardless of brakes binding - the one with least binding will turn or the engine will stall. 1 wheel up test is rather irrelevant for diagnosing the problem here!

If you're saying that no back wheels are turning then Tannaton's list of tests WILL tell you which component is broken.

As Tannaton says - when the IRD or Rear Diff lets go, you generally know about it! But if it went while dragging that beast out of the water, then there may have been enough fuss to mask it ! However when the IRD goes it generally makes a lot of clatter till you sort it out - and probably the rear diff as well.

I don't know why you're suspecting front drive shaft issues if its the rears that are not turning. Presumably while your 5 friends are pushing the front wheels are spinning. Do you have Traction Control? If 1 front wheel without grip were to spin, the TC should kick in and brake it so the other front wheel gets drive - might not have enough grip to lug that beast, but both front wheels should at least spin.
 
Following Tannaton's checks will tell you where the drive is being lost. I suspect that the IRD crown wheel bearings have collapsed, disconnecting drive to the rear.
As stated above, if the front wheels are spinning, the drive shafts are fine.
The TC will help maintain momentum if all wheels have drive but won't help a 2 wheel drive Freelander out of mud with a big boat on the back.
Follow Tannaton's checks ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
I suspect that the IRD crown wheel bearings have collapsed, disconnecting drive to the rear.
Click to expand...

You're probably right, but with mine the bearings went the crown and pinion gears didn't just 'disconnect' - they were still trying to mate but were able to be forced apart - it created an almighty loud banging noise - about every 2/3rd turn of a road wheel if I remember rightly.

Nodge68 said:
The TC will help maintain momentum if all wheels have drive but won't help a 2 wheel drive Freelander out of mud with a big boat on the back.
Click to expand...

lol, it would have a good go though and probably burn out the brakes! Which is interesting, cos I was just reading an article on Haldex units and they were saying the same thing about them in similar conditions. Well not burning out - but getting too hot and simply turning off and leaving you in 2WD.
 
replaced driveshaft with a new (likely aftermarket) driveshaft.
it only lasted 1 trip to miami. shaftis already rattling so bad that my seatbelt engages locked.

is there possibly a beefed-up driveshaft i can purchase? the oem lasted me 2 years pulling the 5k lb trailer. same lifespan would be fine if needed.

what do i google for a stronger driveshaft? thanks for advice u guys rock.
 
dogsNsurfboards said:
replaced driveshaft with a new (likely aftermarket) driveshaft.
it only lasted 1 trip to miami. shaftis already rattling so bad that my seatbelt engages locked.

is there possibly a beefed-up driveshaft i can purchase? the oem lasted me 2 years pulling the 5k lb trailer. same lifespan would be fine if needed.

what do i google for a stronger driveshaft? thanks for advice u guys rock.
Click to expand...

Custom driveshafts?, someone out there must make them as they are need when you slips beefy engine in a classis etc?
Could it be that your rear shoes have seized up as your in and out of water?, mine siezesonceafter a deep puddle as there's nowhere for the dust to escape to..
 
i dont trust my rear shoes one friggin bit.
but when i lift all 4 tires and shift to neutral i can easily spin the rear tires...
I do wish it was easy to disengage RWD while this is rattlin me brains all the way home.
Freeshaker mobile could be a circus ride at this point. girls might like how it tickles their....ears
 
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