My factory fitted one failed after 9 years and above 100k miles, bit the bullet and bought a genuine one which is still dry and working well after 6 years so IMO that's not a part to make savings on it.
Well, its finaly fitted. Job that should have taken a few hours took 2 1/2 days to get sorted! One of them out buying new tools; one and a half swearing and cursing! Totally ridiculous for 3 bolts!
Anyway, took it out to test and to re-fill tank (lost about half a tank of diesel) and it ran lovely. Power, torque, uphill, downhill, fast, and slow. Lets see how long before the next problem For now, happy days
Well, its finaly fitted. Job that should have taken a few hours took 2 1/2 days to get sorted! One of them out buying new tools; one and a half swearing and cursing! Totally ridiculous for 3 bolts!
Anyway, took it out to test and to re-fill tank (lost about half a tank of diesel) and it ran lovely. Power, torque, uphill, downhill, fast, and slow. Lets see how long before the next problem For now, happy days
Ok, few years ago I bought a Bosch 0 280 160 575 and installed it in the defender I was driving.
I noticed the holes between genuine and bosch were different (bosch is smaller).
I upload a photo so that you can see that too.
currently, I’m on the market for a new FPR for my D2.
I would like to know what’s the perfect solution.
1. Microcat only allows to order the complete assembly of FPR with block #MSO000080 which will cost me a bit, but if it will last more than 5 years, as @sierrafery said, I will go this way.
2. I know from my experience that on the FPR insert, there was written “MSA100000”. My supplier (bearmach) has this part number in their offer and I sent them a question to ask if this is definitely the genuine from LR. Hopefully will get their answer tomorrow.
If possible to order the #MSA100000 from LR, is that a proper decision?
3. Did anyone make measurements after fitting BOSCH 0 280 160 575? Is the engine running at same specs or not?