Hi there guys, I bought a freelander one td4 in December last year and almost straight away I noticed a problem after the car had warmed up I’d get power loss and after a bit of time a greyish smoke coming out the exhaust, I did a full service which included an oil/air separator mod for the pcv as well as a new fuel filter but alas this did not fix the problem, I later saw that a low pressure line going into the high pressure pump was leaking so I replaced that and stopped the leak and thought all was fixed but now the problem has come back and I’m pretty dumbfounded on what to do, if I turn the car off and wait a couple minutes and turn it back on then it stops smoking and drives fine for a while before the problem arises again. Any ideas would be much appreciated!

Edit: it also has an egr blank kit

Hi,

For your issue, you should look at the low pressure pump. If it is dying, it can have some issues when hot.
When you turn the key on position 2, you should hear a subtle noise coming from the low presure pump.
If the pump is noisier, you have a potentiel problem.

You did a full service :
You checked turbo hoses for any leak ?

Regards.

Alteredtech said:

Hi,

For your issue, you should look at the low pressure pump. If it is dying, it can have some issues when hot.
When you turn the key on position 2, you should hear a subtle noise coming from the low presure pump.
If the pump is noisier, you have a potentiel problem.

You did a full service :
You checked turbo hoses for any leak ?

Regards.

Click to expand...

I was thinking low pressure pump but then I wasn’t sure how it would cause smoke so I wasn’t sure! Checked the hoses and all seemed fine had one hose that had a bit of wear on it from rubbing against the screw on the intake but no leak coming from it!

A couple of things you could try is reinstate the EGR making sure it is clean, as in photo below.
1

In fact you could remove the manifold and give that a good clean out, after removing the MAP sensor from the side and wiping that clean with a rag with some carb/brake cleaner on the rag.
2

Manifold can be cleaned out with oven cleaner, left for at least 3 hours minimum, then jet washed out left to dry before refitting, the rubber gaskets are reusable.
3

You need it clean like this below.
4

5

Another thing to try is a leak back test on the injectors, use this kit below.

I presume you fitted a new air filter in your service.

Arctic2 said:

A couple of things you could try is reinstate the EGR making sure it is clean, as in photo below.

1

In fact you could remove the manifold and give that a good clean out, after removing the MAP sensor from the side and wiping that clean with a rag with some carb/brake cleaner on the rag.

2

Manifold can be cleaned out with oven cleaner, left for at least 3 hours minimum, then jet washed out left to dry before refitting, the rubber gaskets are reusable.

3

You need it clean like this below.

4

5

Another thing to try is a leak back test on the injectors, use this kit below.

6 Cylinder Diesel Injector Flow Meter Adaptor Kit Common Rail Leak Off Tester | eBay

4Pcs Universal Motorcycle Carburetor Synchronizer Motorbike Vacuum Gauge Tool. Removal /Bush /Steering /Wheel. Tester / Gauge / Cooling. Spring Compressor. Motorcycle Tool. 6 x Adapter: for Bosch injectors.

www.ebay.co.uk

I presume you fitted a new air filter in your service.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the ideas! I’ll give all the cleaning a go on the weekend(weather dependent!) and see if that solves the problem before I venture into the injector route!

Hi guys, would it be possible for one of you to walk me through how to use this leak back test kit? It showed up today after I tried everything else but the problem still came back

Hi Wiggsy.
First remove the little engine cover three 8mm bolts.
1

2

Once that is removed put it to one side safe with the bolts.
3

Next undo the three little torx screws holding the injector wiring to the injectors a 5mm small socket will do the job.
4

5

With those remove you can press the little tangs on the wiring plug and pop each one off x 4 if you find them a bit fiddly then use a small flat blade screw drive to slot into the side and twist it will open the tang and you can pull them off.
6

7

8

The next job is to remove each stainless steel spring holding the leak back hoses into the injector x 4 use a small pair og long nosed pliers do not lose any of these.
9

10

Lift the hoses off by using the pliers on the square part of the T connectors do not pry the up with anything as you can break them, being plastic i changed mine for brass one as you can see from the photos.
11

Now pull and separate the four joint from the main leak back hose on the end.

I have a little made up clamp to block the main leak back hose off, you can use some mole grips fold the hose over and clamp.
12

Stick the hose into a container or cut off plastic bottle and set aside.
13

You are now ready to fit the leak back test kit to each injector, push each lead onto the injector and put the spring back on to hold them in place.
14

Hang up the bottles or get some one to hold it for you.
15

You are now ready to do the test, this is a 2 minute test,
16

start the car and the timer stop after 2 minute and see how much diesel is in each bottle after you stop the car.
17

In that time you are looking to have no more than 20ml or less in each bottle, you will soon know if an ijctor or two are leaking bad because the bottle will fill up quicker than the one not leaking badly.

18

Take a photo of the measurements and post it up for us to see.
good luck.