Andrealouisea · Jan 25, 2012

My car is up off the bumpstops! Hoo-blimmin-ray!

We fitted new arnott airbags over the weekend and at the same time realised that the rear right sensor had failed. New one arrived today (Huge thumbs up for Island 4x4 who managed to deliver the new part less than 24 hours after I ordered it!) and hubby and I promptly went out and fitted it.

Used EAS Unlock suite and cleared the RR fault, car is now up off the bumps

I may have to get my bikini out to celebrate!!

Brake pipes are badly corroded so that's this weekends job - any tips?

Finally, the only error that comes up now when you switch on is that the bonnet is open.......It's definitely closed so any ideas on what may have gone wrong/need cleaning/need replacing would be much appreciated

Happy, Happy, Happy!!!

Jamiehol · Jan 25, 2012

The switch for the bonnet open message is part of the bonnet clip by the battery. I have seen a guide about trying to adjust it somewhere to fix the problem.

However on a mates P38 we just disconnected the switch/sensor

Saint.V8 · Jan 25, 2012

Great job.....

Glad to hear it is off the bumps now....just goes to show a little perserverance and the EAS is easily sorted....

Andrealouisea · Jan 25, 2012

Thanks Jamie.

thanks also SV8 -

It's been a worry but we are both very pleased that it 'seems' to have been sorted now

Datatek · Jan 25, 2012

Andrealouisea said:
Thanks Jamie.

thanks also SV8 - It's been a worry but we are both very pleased that it 'seems' to have been sorted now

Pleased to hear all is sorted, but as you have changed a sensor, unless you are very lucky you will need to re-calibrate the ride heights.

Bonnet switch is on the drivers side bonnet latch, look at RAVE on the CD for details.

zzr1200 · Jan 25, 2012

Andrealouisea said:
Brake pipes are badly corroded so that's this weekends job - any tips?

If you have a brake pipe flaring tool use copper nickel pipe, then you should never have to change them again...

Even if you haven't a pipe flaring kit it may be worth buying a cheap one..

Bare in mind that you will also need gland nuts for the brake pipes as well which could be metric or imperial.

Seamless Copper / Nickel Brake Pipe | Frost Auto Restoration Techniques

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAKE-FUE...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item45fdc6659d

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Copper-Ni...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a6efb9787

Andrealouisea · Jan 25, 2012

Thanks Keith

Project for Friday is to calibrate the ride heights

thanks for the bonnet switch info, will check RAVE.

Andrealouisea · Jan 25, 2012

Thank-you. We do have a flaring tool

Will be getting pipe tomorrow - thanks for the link - Much appreciated

zzr1200 said:
If you have a brake pipe flaring tool use copper nickel pipe, then you should never have to change them again...

Seamless Copper / Nickel Brake Pipe | Frost Auto Restoration Techniques

seanmull · Jan 25, 2012

as regards the brake pipes make them up yourself as you have the flaring tool its not a nice job to do but its not expensive

zzr1200 · Jan 25, 2012

Andrealouisea said:
Thanks Keith Project for Friday is to calibrate the ride heights thanks for the bonnet switch info, will check RAVE.

Suspension Heights

hth

davef2901 · Jan 25, 2012

Fab news, now ignore the bonnet open warning for a bit and get out and enjoy your mega bargain Rangie (think I'd do the brakes tho')

rasheed · Jan 25, 2012

zzr1200 - good bits of info those.. you should consider putting 'em in the "How To"s. Esp ride heights.

v8hotrodboy · Jan 25, 2012

Think this site will help you alot in the coming weeks!! Index of Range Rover Mechanical Information
Try a search on rear brake pipes as i have a sneaky thought that they are a bit of a bugger, but i could be wrong!!

dougdotcom · Jan 25, 2012

Andrealouisea said:
Thanks Keith Project for Friday is to calibrate the ride heights thanks for the bonnet switch info, will check RAVE.

So would you recomend these as far as you have had the chance to test it that is. found some of this site, have you seen them anywere of same make for less?

Arnott Range Rover P38 Suspension Air Springs / Bags X4 | eBay

kds · Jan 26, 2012

On the brake pipe front, I only use copper its sooo much easyier to work with, just my thoughts on it.

Andrealouisea · Jan 26, 2012

Thanks All. ZZR and V8HRB - Thanks for the links

Doug. They seem to be good - we are pleased that we went for them, despite the fact that they are marginally more expensive. We couldnt find them anywhere cheaper, I believe that P38-Spares are the UK importers so to that end no one else can really sell them.

Andrealouisea · Jan 26, 2012

davef2901 said:
Fab news, now ignore the bonnet open warning for a bit and get out and enjoy your mega bargain Rangie (think I'd do the brakes tho')

Lol! Will def do the brakes

Then cant wait to get out and enjoy it

zzr1200 · Jan 26, 2012

When you have replaced the brake pipe/s print out the section regarding bleeding the brakes in rave, buy 4 litres of dot4 fluid, then follow the instructions to the letter and change all the fluid in the system.

New fluid will makes all the difference to the brakes on a P38's.

davef2901 · Jan 26, 2012

zzr1200-that seems a hell of a lot of fluid, I'll believe you tho cos I ain't done it myself(yet!) I take it its not a simple procedure Like Guzzi linked brakes?)

Datatek · Jan 26, 2012

kds said:
On the brake pipe front, I only use copper its sooo much easyier to work with, just my thoughts on it.

Use cunic not copper, the wall thickness on some copper is insufficient for the pressure

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