piston-return-spring

piston-return-spring

New Member
Hey folks,
So I need some advise considering the start up of my engine. Mechanically everything is in order , carburetor should work as the engine ran 2 years ago (before restoration)and fuel pump is new ....
Need help with the electrics as everything is 24 volt .I think there is no spark.. :scratching_chin: ...(fuses are ok)

Where can I start? :confused:
 
Dr_evil said:
Make sure live is live and earth is earth on module to coil and feed to coil
Click to expand...
doc its a 24 volt coil which means most likley that it is the mod version and should look something like this with a regulator box next to it to the OP does this look anything like your engine coil and alternator because this is a 24v 2.25 hope it helps a bit
603016_4103103017817_936786164_n.jpg
 
Remove HT lead from middle of dizzy cap, fit an old plug and rest on the block. With the rocker arm in the dizzy off cam (points normally closed) open and close the points with something insulating (lolly stick or similar) If you get a big, fat, blue spark the problem is in the HT side, check the firing order (on manifold, dizzy goes anticlockwise, front cylinder is 1 and should be fed from the cap outlet pointing to the front of the engine) No go? try replacing the dizzy cap, rotor arm and HT leads.
If you get a very weak spark, check the points gap and replace the condenser. (I'd replace the lot as a matter of course anyway)

No spark at all? Check points gap. With points open - If no current getting to points check voltage at coil in and out - if nothing on the output replace coil, if nothing on the input, chase wiring back to ignition switch.
If you're sure there's a good spark happening at the right time then it's time to look at the carb and fuel system.
 
oxides said:
Remove HT lead from middle of dizzy cap, fit an old plug and rest on the block. With the rocker arm in the dizzy off cam (points normally closed) open and close the points with something insulating (lolly stick or similar) If you get a big, fat, blue spark the problem is in the HT side, check the firing order (on manifold, dizzy goes anticlockwise, front cylinder is 1 and should be fed from the cap outlet pointing to the front of the engine) No go? try replacing the dizzy cap, rotor arm and HT leads.
If you get a very weak spark, check the points gap and replace the condenser. (I'd replace the lot as a matter of course anyway)

No spark at all? Check points gap. With points open - If no current getting to points check voltage at coil in and out - if nothing on the output replace coil, if nothing on the input, chase wiring back to ignition switch.
If you're sure there's a good spark happening at the right time then it's time to look at the carb and fuel system.
Click to expand...
24 volt land rover re readand post again the only reason the engine in the pic above has standard leads and plugs because i adapted my cap and bought a roll of spark plug lead and made my own up but most of that correct beware the 24volt dizzy is water proof and if its all corroded up inside will not be nice to open up
 
In fact it looks like this, different wirings , but the the same principle.
 

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that is exactly how it should look and you have the earlier type alternator mine is messed about because i adapted my dizzy cap but the coil and the voltage regulator is the same i adapted mine to take normal spark plugs bp5es and it runs lovley also a lot cheaper than the bloody military plugs, the normal bits are easier for me to either get or make out here so thats why i use them and i have a few new rotor arms and complete dizzys in reserve, do you want me to post over by snail mail my adapted dizzy cap so you can have a play ??
 
It's very nice of you but I don't think that the issue is because of these parts. There might just be an electric wire wrong connected , what do you think could get me this issue ???
 
have you ever seen the engine running or was it dead when you started playing and is any of the 24v ignition system new or all old, might be as simple as coil playing up or points not opening properly, either way i have some parts if you want to borrow have them etc to play and test new coil is expensive £160 quid and i have spares same as complete dizzy if you want to really play but check your regulator box to make sure it has voltage going in (small wire and the voltage going out big wire) and dont worry its not massive voltage i think it actually drops the voltage to 12 (not 100% sure on that) hope that helps a bit
 
Will check that tomorow :) thank you very much...
Actually tthe ignition system should work as the engine run 2 years ago (optically everything is fine , no rust , no parts broken , points opening correctly )
If really something is defect i will contact you , but iam sure it is just a stupid thing .... ^^
 
na dont buy a new unit i will send you one over mate may be snail mail but take a pic and it will be in the post (i converted my 24v to 12 because i set fire to the alternator and being a tight sod i converted it to 12v cause i had the bits and i have a full second system cause i is a tight git again)
 
I have seen that it costs 430 £ new , and i dont even need it, because i fixed it , and you know what it fired right up yesterday :p :p
engine is running a bit rough , i need to adjust the carburetor .. but thats all ^^
 
piston-return-spring said:
I have seen that it costs 430 £ new , and i dont even need it, because i fixed it , and you know what it fired right up yesterday :p :p
engine is running a bit rough , i need to adjust the carburetor .. but thats all ^^
Click to expand...

if you have put new valves and rings in that engine id get it up to full temperature first and keep it going for a good hour before tweaking the carb as evrything will need to settle in propper first ;);)
 
piston-return-spring said:
Only the headgasket and other gaskets were changed , does that matters????
Click to expand...

if you did the valve stem oil seals you have more than likely disturbed the seating of the valves and they just need a good run idling to settle them back in likewise if youve cleaned the valves off ( de-coked them ) they need to build up a bit of carbon to reseal properly :D
 
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