Trailpug

New Member
Daft question
If i run a single power feed to the rear of my old tub to run numerous bits and bobs work lights, power outlets and anything else i can think off!!!!!
The daft question is can i just run the single feed from the battery up to a six way junction box and run things of that, or do i need a 6 way fuse board? does the whole thing need fusing at all? :confused:
Help please....
 
its better to fuse the 6 individually how you do thats up to you but box would be more convient than inline fuses
 
Daft question
If i run a single power feed to the rear of my old tub to run numerous bits and bobs work lights, power outlets and anything else i can think off!!!!!
The daft question is can i just run the single feed from the battery up to a six way junction box and run things of that, or do i need a 6 way fuse board? does the whole thing need fusing at all? :confused:
Help please....

Oh god, it's him again.

PM on it's way.

:D
 
Big fuse at the battery to protect the thick cable to the dis box then it's best to have individual fuses on each circuit. On the other hand, if it's a question you need to ask, perhaps you should get a grownup to do this for you?
 
Without trying to hijack this thread, I was going to ask a similar question.

I have decided to fit an extra fuse box, in my 110 Defender. in the driver's seat box, alongside the current one.

I know I could run a fused cable direct from the battery to the fuse box and then run circuits from there. However, if I want to run items which only operate when the ignition is on, where could I pick up the feed safely, and what would be the best advised cable to run?
 
Big fuse at the battery to protect the thick cable to the dis box then it's best to have individual fuses on each circuit. On the other hand, if it's a question you need to ask, perhaps you should get a grownup to do this for you?

How do you learn without asking questions?
 
Without trying to hijack this thread, I was going to ask a similar question.

I have decided to fit an extra fuse box, in my 110 Defender. in the driver's seat box, alongside the current one.

I know I could run a fused cable direct from the battery to the fuse box and then run circuits from there. However, if I want to run items which only operate when the ignition is on, where could I pick up the feed safely, and what would be the best advised cable to run?

It all depends on how much power you intend to put through the new fuse box.
If it's not a lot you could piggyback off an existing supply that is only live with the ignition on, such as a cigarette lighter. Do tratters have cigarette lighters?
Otherwise you could fit a heavy relay between your supply and the fuse box and trigger the relay from somewhere that is only live with the ignition on.
 
It all depends on how much power you intend to put through the new fuse box.
If it's not a lot you could piggyback off an existing supply that is only live with the ignition on, such as a cigarette lighter. Do tratters have cigarette lighters?
Otherwise you could fit a heavy relay between your supply and the fuse box and trigger the relay from somewhere that is only live with the ignition on.

Or two fuse boxes, one fed from the relay (works with ignition on) and one not.
 
Daft question
If i run a single power feed to the rear of my old tub to run numerous bits and bobs work lights, power outlets and anything else i can think off!!!!!
The daft question is can i just run the single feed from the battery up to a six way junction box and run things of that, or do i need a 6 way fuse board? does the whole thing need fusing at all? :confused:
Help please....

I have run a 60 amp cable from my battery to behind my raptor dash (basically doing the same as you) to run all the bits in the dash, this has a 50amp MAXI fuse in the seatbox and then is fused behind the dash, I have run inline fuses although I will be making a new fuse board as the wiring is a bit messy (secure, safe but messy). You would be best of fusing at both ends as the big fuse will stop any shorts in the main cable but would allow any smaller items to simply melt before the big fuse blows, a smaller item specific fuse will protect whatever your fitting.

Without trying to hijack this thread, I was going to ask a similar question.

I have decided to fit an extra fuse box, in my 110 Defender. in the driver's seat box, alongside the current one.

I know I could run a fused cable direct from the battery to the fuse box and then run circuits from there. However, if I want to run items which only operate when the ignition is on, where could I pick up the feed safely, and what would be the best advised cable to run?

As has been said it would need to be relay activated, best idea is 2 fuse boxes (again as has been said), have one activated via a big 75amp relay, this would then allow you to have plenty of circuits running off the ign live fuseboard.


As with all electrics make sure that you work out your loadings correctly, figure out what will be working, add it all together then add some for safety and future upgrades, I have seen to many times people running 4 12V sockets (15amp each) plus lights and others all off the standard 30 amp cable :eek:
 
Tazz look at starter solonoid relays approx 70amp

You will need a white wire to pull a feed from an unused ign live through the relay to earth this would then operate the solonoid run a fused say 50amp fuse with 60amp wire preferably white to a fuse box then you can fuse all circuits you want individually.

I have a website on my comp for cheap wire fuse boards better selection than vehicle wiring products will dig it out in the morning

Jai
 

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