Datatek said:
Preventive maintenancege my torque is never a waste of time. If the diaphragm fails on your hols it's would be a pain in the butt. All these parts have a finite life, better replace before it fails at a time that suits.:)
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I'm going on holiday soon should I change my torque converter just in case ??? No it an expensive job and hard to access where as the v block isn't and why spoil a holiday tinkering with things that don't need it spray test done and oh look two o rings . Why strip play mess about with your holiday if you want to put it like that when not needed and spoil it .
 
defender300td1 said:
I'm going on holiday soon should I change my torque converter just in case ??? No it an expensive job and hard to access where as the v block isn't and why spoil a holiday tinkering with things that don't need it spray test done and oh look two o rings . Why strip play mess about with your holiday if you want to put it like that when not needed and spoil it .
Click to expand...

The diaphragm is a few quid and easy to change, better than getting to your destination on the bump stops with a bill for a new compressor. Comparing it to a torque convertor is just plain stupid, a torque convertor has a life of maybe 200K miles or more, the diaphragm is plastic/butyl rubber and fails with time as much as use.
Lots of complaints about the EAS just come down to poor maintenance which is what you are advocating.
 
defender300td1 said:
That's why I used some one else's quote ...and have edited my mistake earlier
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Oh ok see what your getting at. But Keiths advice is valid. If the car is new to you or you have had it a while and it's not been done. Prevention is always better than cure. Only O rings that give much trouble are the ones on the NRVs the rest are usually changed out of courtesy rather than need. Duff drier can crust up the solenoid valve seals and the diaphragm. Diaphragm change is important because a failed one will see a compressor out in no time at all. Specially if it has been feeding a few leaks and you find the car on the bumps stops a long way from home. So basically it's down to choice you can either do preventative maintenence or wait until something breaks before you act. Up to the individuals choice. The money spent on this would not be extortionate for peace of mind, and maybe considered a bargain by some. :):)
 
Datatek said:
The diaphragm is a few quid and easy to change, better than getting to your destination on the bump stops with a bill for a new compressor. Comparing it to a torque convertor is just plain stupid, a torque convertor has a life of maybe 200K miles or more, the diaphragm is plastic/butyl rubber and fails with time as much as use.
Lots of complaints about the EAS just come down to poor maintenance which is what you are advocating.
Click to expand...
But that's life how many other things could go wrong whilst on holiday key fob the list is endless you only need solve problems that are evident not go looking for things that are not that is my Theory end off no point fighting opinions opinions differ so much .,,
 
Ok guys, thanks for the plentiful replies :D

So to recap.. push the airlines in further if poss with pressure in the system. If leak persists, should I strip down the valve block and change O-rings first, or trim the airlines first?
 
Valiante said:
Don't I have to take the valve block apart to get to the O-rings?
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No not the ones in the pipe outlets. Just pull the pipe then carefully prize out the collet. Two 6 mm O rings behind each collet. A little wire with a hook on the end will get them out. Smear of silicone grease on new ones push in square then replace collet.
 
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The only thing I would add is get decent quality o rings. I agree with the general assessment about Britpart in this instance, their moulded / injected plastic and rubber parts are apparently made to very generous tolerances.

Wammers, on mine there is no bulge in the pipes at this end, only at the airspring end so trimming a few mm off every two three years has worked. Its only to shift the point where the collet bites a bit.

Valiante, if you've steady hands you can use a craft knife but otherwise its quite worthwhile to get a tube cutter. The ideal cut is absolutely square on, a perfect 90 degrees to the axis of the pipe. Only this will ensure a complete seal against your new O rings.
 
rasheed said:
The only thing I would add is get decent quality o rings. I agree with the general assessment about Britpart in this instance, their moulded / injected plastic and rubber parts are apparently made to very generous tolerances.
Click to expand...
Brilliant. I already ordered a valve-block O-ring kit from Island 4x4, which arrived yesterday...... with Britpart stamped on the box. :(
 
rasheed said:
The only thing I would add is get decent quality o rings. I agree with the general assessment about Britpart in this instance, their moulded / injected plastic and rubber parts are apparently made to very generous tolerances.

Wammers, on mine there is no bulge in the pipes at this end, only at the airspring end so trimming a few mm off every two three years has worked. Its only to shift the point where the collet bites a bit.

Valiante, if you've steady hands you can use a craft knife but otherwise its quite worthwhile to get a tube cutter. The ideal cut is absolutely square on, a perfect 90 degrees to the axis of the pipe. Only this will ensure a complete seal against your new O rings.
Click to expand...

Only thing i would add to that is don't get the red O rings. They are fine for all other areas but too soft for NRVs. Specially if the guide cones have any wear in them. You need black Nitrile ones for the NRVs. Specially NRV 1.
 
Datatek said:
Yep, I have used them, they don't always seem to have stock though and they have dropped their price since I used them:D
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Price is a lot better than the stupid prices being asked by some, for to be honest, what is no more than a couple of quids worth of O rings, if you could be bothered to get them from a supplier yourself.
 
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