Dopey said:
I found the old block I had, kept it in the shed (you never know when you might need it for some reason) anyway found a new collet in the box with some other bits so I will get my son to do that, thanks for asking how I am, I am on the mend, but its slow, have another 2 weeks off work, will be glad when I am back
Click to expand...

That's excellent news :) I'm planning asking a mate (who bought two P38's... The bass... Beat me to them) if I can buy a block & pump. Rebuild it and have it standing by :cool:

Great that your lad will help, mines 8 and has an Xbox for a brain :D

Glad you're getting back to work :) It's been 8 months for me so far... Hopefully they fix my shoulder and as Arnie said, I'll be back :p
 
Dopey said:
it was showing open valves on the diagnostic, I am not pretending I know whats going on, but all I know is it was coming from there seems to be passing the collet, maybe Saint can explain?
Click to expand...

If you have a long list of valve stuck open, valve stuck closed, quite often the same valve. That more than likely means you have bad comms with diag. Valves never stick open or closed, any listed fault of that nature, when you do have good comms, it is the systems way of saying something that should have happened did not happen in a specific time frame.
 
Doo said:
That's excellent news :) I'm planning asking a mate (who bought two P38's... The bass... Beat me to them) if I can buy a block & pump. Rebuild it and have it standing by :cool:

Great that your lad will help, mines 8 and has an Xbox for a brain :D

Glad you're getting back to work :) It's been 8 months for me so far... Hopefully they fix my shoulder and as Arnie said, I'll be back :p
Click to expand...

Hopefully it will not be, "They fix my shoulder then it will be my back". :D:D
 
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Nowt wrong with comms....no faults were listed....last week it was the FR Height Reading Incorrect fault and an Air Supply Fault.

This week no faults listed, but the air dryer top collet was letting by. I thought it was odd that the dryer was hissing when the compressor stopped.
 
Saint.V8 said:
Nowt wrong with comms....no faults were listed....last week it was the FR Height Reading Incorrect fault and an Air Supply Fault.

This week no faults listed, but the air dryer top collet was letting by. I thought it was odd that the dryer was hissing when the compressor stopped.
Click to expand...

Only pressure in drier circuit after compressor stops is that which is retained by the spring holding the diaphragm valve against it's seat. It should be minimal and should not cause an hiss. Unless he has a strong spring on the diaphragm valve and a bad leak on the drier and air is escaping from the tank via NRV1. NRV1 leaks usually go past the diaphragm valve as explained in my EAS archive post.
 
I just ordered another dryer on the bay, but will put the collet in first see if that sorts it out, is there a rubber O ring that goes in then the collet?
 
Dopey said:
I just ordered another dryer on the bay, but will put the collet in first see if that sorts it out, is there a rubber O ring that goes in then the collet?
Click to expand...

There are two in behind each collet. If you take them out, take them to a local hydraulic specialist and see if he'll let you have a couple.
 
wammers said:
Only pressure in drier circuit after compressor stops is that which is retained by the spring holding the diaphragm valve against it's seat. It should be minimal and should not cause an hiss. Unless he has a strong spring on the diaphragm valve and a bad leak on the drier and air is escaping from the tank via NRV1. NRV1 leaks usually go past the diaphragm valve as explained in my EAS archive post.
Click to expand...

If it is trying to self-level will it not vent past the dryer?
 
Dopey said:
Maybe it the path of lest resistance
Click to expand...

Seal the drier and see what you get. The compressor will not fill the tank if there is a bad leak in the pressure feed system. When the ECU pulls relay 20 to start the compressor it also pulls the diaphragm valve solenoid. This directs air below the diaphragm to seal it against the exhaust port. Air then goes along the gallery out via a 8 mm pipe and into the bottom of the drier. Any moisture in the air is absorbed by the silica crystals in the drier. Air then goes out of the top of the drier back into the valve block and to and past NRV1 into the tank feed pipe. When the compressor stops the diaphragm solenoid drops and air holding the diaphragm shut is vented through the 4 mm pipe into the harness. High pressure air is then vented past the diaphragm from the gallery and the drier in the opposite direction to filling flow. This blows moisture out of the silica in the drier and out to atmosphere. The only pressure then left in the drier and fill/vent gallery should then be that which the spring under the diaphragm holding the valve on the seat can hold back. Why did you jump relay 20 will the compressor not run normally?
 
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it went into EAS fault, and it wouldn't run (the pump that is) air did go to the back and lifted the back up as normal when I did the bypass, but it coudn't do the front, it didnt actually go onto the bump stops although the pump wasn't working, one reason I bypassed it was to see if the pump worked or not, tomorrow I will check the pressure sensor on pin 7 and 9 to see if that's ok
 
Dopey said:
it went into EAS fault, and it wouldn't run (the pump that is) air did go to the back and lifted the back up as normal when I did the bypass, but it coudn't do the front, it didnt actually go onto the bump stops although the pump wasn't working, one reason I bypassed it was to see if the pump worked or not, tomorrow I will check the pressure sensor on pin 7 and 9 to see if that's ok
Click to expand...

If you have a big leak from the pressure side (Drier) then the compressor will never fill the tank. Therefore there will not be enough air to lift the front and the compressor will stop when it overheats and throw a fault. The compressor is low volume any sort of pressure leak on the fill circuit will render the system incapable of reaching full pressure. Seal the drier clear any faults and start car. If compressor runs all should be good if it won't temp sensor is shot.
 
Dopey, can it be driven to Langley ? I'm off work on Friday, and could have a proper look at it.
 
Thanks m8, I have PM'd you, but its all looking fine right now (but I am sure that will change soon lol )
 
I just received a new (used) dryer from the bay (£7), looks in good nick, cleaned up nice looks like new now, gave it a shake, sounds like its nice and dry inside and its not powder, anyway it had 2 O rings in the bottom but only 1 at the top, should it not have 2 at the top same as the bottom?
 
Dopey said:
I just received a new (used) dryer from the bay (£7), looks in good nick, cleaned up nice looks like new now, gave it a shake, sounds like its nice and dry inside and its not powder, anyway it had 2 O rings in the bottom but only 1 at the top, should it not have 2 at the top same as the bottom?
Click to expand...

YES.
 
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