jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
lower seat will tap out with the joint the top seat is more tricky ,you can grind a 12mm flange bolt and pull it out,not much edge to use punch on unless you put a good bit of weld on seat which will help shrink it as well as giving something to hit
mundungus
Active Member
Thanks for the replies.
So, have packed up for the night a bit defeated.
All in all, I'm trying to change both track rod ball joints and the drop arm one.
As I said in my first post, I've disassembled the drop arm one and am now left with (now not sure if its the upper or lower) but the most furthest in socket stuck in the drop arm. Its very difficult to get a hammer swing under the wheel arch, and certainly not from all directions.
Having looked at the tool you mentioned (flat) and James' idea of grinding down a bolt, I think I'll try something along these lines tomorrow.
Regarding the track rod ends though. I've managed to get one out. But am struggling a lot with the other one. It doesn't matter how tight I clamp it in the vise nor how much WD40 it has on it, the thing won't budge. It just turns in the vise jaws and grinds teeth marks into the track rod. I actually think I've broken the vise trying because the jaws don't marry up anymore.
Am thinking now of welding an oversize nut to the track rod. Any other suggestions are welcome.
I'm hoping to get this done tomorrow morning as the MOT guy said he would be around in the afternoon and could do my certificate if I get these done.
So, have packed up for the night a bit defeated.
All in all, I'm trying to change both track rod ball joints and the drop arm one.
As I said in my first post, I've disassembled the drop arm one and am now left with (now not sure if its the upper or lower) but the most furthest in socket stuck in the drop arm. Its very difficult to get a hammer swing under the wheel arch, and certainly not from all directions.
Having looked at the tool you mentioned (flat) and James' idea of grinding down a bolt, I think I'll try something along these lines tomorrow.
Regarding the track rod ends though. I've managed to get one out. But am struggling a lot with the other one. It doesn't matter how tight I clamp it in the vise nor how much WD40 it has on it, the thing won't budge. It just turns in the vise jaws and grinds teeth marks into the track rod. I actually think I've broken the vise trying because the jaws don't marry up anymore.
Am thinking now of welding an oversize nut to the track rod. Any other suggestions are welcome.
I'm hoping to get this done tomorrow morning as the MOT guy said he would be around in the afternoon and could do my certificate if I get these done.
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
I struggled like feck with my track rod ends. I don't have a vice so a big pair of stillsons to hold the bar and two big feckoff spanners looped together over the track rod end. Was tight all the way out.
The other side wouldn't budge. Well it did about half a turn. So the slot that runs down the track rod was made longer with a 1mm cutting disc and the track rod end came out relatively easy then.
It wasn't until later the we noticed we had twisted the bar and had a bit of a bend in it
The other side wouldn't budge. Well it did about half a turn. So the slot that runs down the track rod was made longer with a 1mm cutting disc and the track rod end came out relatively easy then.
It wasn't until later the we noticed we had twisted the bar and had a bit of a bend in it
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
if you hit tube all over where thread is located between 2 hammers ie one as anvil tre will screw out by hand
mundungus
Active Member
It did cross my mind to make the slot longer but figured I'd be destroying the ball joint thread if I tried.
Looking at paddocks and craddock, a track rod bar on its own is about £20. Does anyone know if RST in Colchester would stock that? It might be worth it not to have to struggle with this tomorrow in the rain.
Also, one thing I forgot to ask about with the drop arm kit. The old one has a grease nipple in the bottom cap plate. The new kit doesn't and I'm not sure why. Should I just put the old one back on?
If I use the new one, how would I put grease in it?
Looking at paddocks and craddock, a track rod bar on its own is about £20. Does anyone know if RST in Colchester would stock that? It might be worth it not to have to struggle with this tomorrow in the rain.
Also, one thing I forgot to ask about with the drop arm kit. The old one has a grease nipple in the bottom cap plate. The new kit doesn't and I'm not sure why. Should I just put the old one back on?
If I use the new one, how would I put grease in it?
mundungus
Active Member
Really
I hit it a bit with a hammer earlier (out of pure frustration) but it made no difference. Didn't think to hit it against an anvil of sorts.
Will try that first thing tomorrow.
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
Turboman
Mab An Gov
Really
I hit it a bit with a hammer earlier (out of pure frustration) but it made no difference. Didn't think to hit it against an anvil of sorts.
Will try that first thing tomorrow.
A good shock works wonders with this stuff. I have a hinged ball joint extractor that pops the joints out of the tapers, but I always give the casting the taper pulls into a good couple of smacks with a club hammer before putting the extractor on.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
Really
I hit it a bit with a hammer earlier (out of pure frustration) but it made no difference. Didn't think to hit it against an anvil of sorts.
Will try that first thing tomorrow.
you have to hit all around the tube that holds the thread it will come out by hand if done right/enough
mundungus
Active Member
Oh, The way I read it I thought you was trying to replace the track rod ends
Sorry for the confusion, yes I am.
Just thinking out loud really. Currently I have two new track rod ends in their boxes and a track rod that I've managed to get one out but not the other.
After your post about you twisting yours, and the fact that I'm really scuffing mine in the vise jaws I had a look at the cost of a new bar.
A new bar wasn't the original plan, but if I can get one for £20 tomorrow it might be an easy option.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
try hitting tube whilst its resting on vice ,never had one that didnt unscrew yet
Turboman
Mab An Gov
I think you will get them out if you try James method, anvil or a piece of rail is good to hammer on if you can access one.
hctbn
Member
I've got the drop arm ball joint tool but the seat was so worn that there wasn't anything to pull on and absolutely nothing that I could get a drift on. I also had a weep on the steering box so I decided to remove the whole box and then take the drop arm off (with the intention of servicing the box). The nut was easy enough to get off (hub nut socket for a Maxi) but several hours abuse of the drop arm and in the end I had to take it all to Challenger 4x4 who got the arm off for me. Having got the arm off it was still too knackered to get the seat out. I managed to win a drop arm on EBay for 99p (I gave him a fiver - 99p was just wrong!) and rebuilt the joint into it - the box is on and I'm about to fit the arm at the end of a long refurb (heads, carbs, brake pipes, etc.). In hindsight having decided to replace the arm I could have taken an angle grinder to it and saved the tenner to get it taken off!
The box was easy to refurb - kit from Paddocks and follow the book!
Track rod ends were easy - remove the clamp - then small cold chisel to open up the slot then just unscrew - could have been written in a Haynes manual!
If you've got enough seat to work on and want to borrow the tool give me a shout.
Good luck!
Bob
The box was easy to refurb - kit from Paddocks and follow the book!
Track rod ends were easy - remove the clamp - then small cold chisel to open up the slot then just unscrew - could have been written in a Haynes manual!
If you've got enough seat to work on and want to borrow the tool give me a shout.
Good luck!
Bob
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
you failed then
mundungus
Active Member
Quick update.
Beating it over an anvil worked a treat. Hit, hit, hit, still seized, then suddenly, it turns easy . Much appreciated tip, and one I'll remember for a long time to come.
So, within 20 minutes this morning the track rod was back in place with two new ends. One of which doesn't want to let the nut do up (just turns in the socket) but I figure I'll leave that for a bit until the wheels are straight and try again.
The drop arm ball joint is another matter. I've spent hours today (until the better half called time) trying to get that fecking thing done.
I rigged up my own version of the tool that flat put me onto. A bolt, a 16mm socket a round piece of 5mm mild steel plate with an 8mm hole in the middle and a couple of different sized nuts. Pushed the upper doobrey thingy out no problem, (got my socket stuck for a minute but managed to bash that back out).
I then used the a small grinding stone in my drill to hone out the drop arm casting, which was pitted and lumpy inside. I've then spent the rest of the day trying to squash the inner parts of the kit and get the circlip back in. Fecking nightmare.
I just can't get it to squash in far enough. I've bent up a three way G clamp, then fecked around with a normal G clamp, got drenched twice in the rain and tried using a bottle jack to push it in place. It just lifts the landy up and still not enough of a gap for the circlip.
Missed my opportunity for a weekend MOT retest, and well and truly fecked off with it.
Beating it over an anvil worked a treat. Hit, hit, hit, still seized
, then suddenly, it turns easy . Much appreciated tip, and one I'll remember for a long time to come.So, within 20 minutes this morning the track rod was back in place with two new ends. One of which doesn't want to let the nut do up (just turns in the socket) but I figure I'll leave that for a bit until the wheels are straight and try again.
The drop arm ball joint is another matter. I've spent hours today (until the better half called time) trying to get that fecking thing done.
I rigged up my own version of the tool that flat put me onto. A bolt, a 16mm socket a round piece of 5mm mild steel plate with an 8mm hole in the middle and a couple of different sized nuts. Pushed the upper doobrey thingy out no problem, (got my socket stuck for a minute but managed to bash that back out).
I then used the a small grinding stone in my drill to hone out the drop arm casting, which was pitted and lumpy inside. I've then spent the rest of the day trying to squash the inner parts of the kit and get the circlip back in. Fecking nightmare.
I just can't get it to squash in far enough. I've bent up a three way G clamp, then fecked around with a normal G clamp, got drenched twice in the rain and tried using a bottle jack to push it in place. It just lifts the landy up and still not enough of a gap for the circlip.
Missed my opportunity for a weekend MOT retest, and well and truly fecked off with it.
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
Quick update.
Beating it over an anvil worked a treat. Hit, hit, hit, still seized
So, within 20 minutes this morning the track rod was back in place with two new ends. One of which doesn't want to let the nut do up (just turns in the socket) but I figure I'll leave that for a bit until the wheels are straight and try again.
The drop arm ball joint is another matter. I've spent hours today (until the better half called time) trying to get that fecking thing done.
I rigged up my own version of the tool that flat put me onto. A bolt, a 16mm socket a round piece of 5mm mild steel plate with an 8mm hole in the middle and a couple of different sized nuts. Pushed the upper doobrey thingy out no problem, (got my socket stuck for a minute but managed to bash that back out).
I then used the a small grinding stone in my drill to hone out the drop arm casting, which was pitted and lumpy inside. I've then spent the rest of the day trying to squash the inner parts of the kit and get the circlip back in. Fecking nightmare.
I just can't get it to squash in far enough. I've bent up a three way G clamp, then fecked around with a normal G clamp, got drenched twice in the rain and tried using a bottle jack to push it in place. It just lifts the landy up and still not enough of a gap for the circlip.
Missed my opportunity for a weekend MOT retest, and well and truly fecked off with it.
Nice to know beating the **** out of it worked. Something I'll try next time.
Track rod end is a tapper into the hub, So if it isn't tightening try putting some weight on it to effectively push it into the hub (With a pry bar or similar if needed) and it should tighten.
