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Viper1975

New Member

• Jun 13, 2013

• #1

Help!!!!!
I have a p38 and all was going well until the EAS warnings came on (all four lights and speed restricted). I checked the obvious ie both fuses and swapped over the relay still no good. I ordered the diagnostic software and plugged in. Comms seem ok but when I read fault codes there is a boat load of them.
I can read the calibration figures ok and hight sensors etc but cannot get the pump to start.
Any ideas guys help would be much appreciated!!!

 

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Viper1975

New Member

• Jun 13, 2013

• #2

I have also stripped down the compressor and fitted new seals as mine were shot. I have bridged across the relay terminals with a fuse wire and the pump is working ok.

 

dogsbody

Very senior member

• Jun 13, 2013

• #3

Have a look in the 'how to' at the top of the page.

 

NikTheGeek

New Member

• Jun 13, 2013

• #4

dogsbody said:

Have a look in the 'how to' at the top of the page.

Click to expand...

Here: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f71/checking-eas-compressor-diaphragm-valve-172555.html

 

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Viper1975

New Member

• Jun 13, 2013

• #5

Thanks guys, I will check the thermal switch tomorrow.
It was the amout of fault codes that is concerning me, probably 20 odd faults so unsure if its a certain thing causing them???

 

Saint.V8

Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie

Full Member

• Jun 13, 2013

• #6

You don't have good comms with the car and software....ensure you have the Green Idle icon lit and you are Tx and Rx-ing properly....as bad comms will cause a spurious list of loads of faults...

 

Datatek

Well-Known Member

• Jun 14, 2013

• #7

As Saint V8 said, loads of faults on the list is poor comms assuming you are using the RSW software.

 

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

Donater

• Jun 14, 2013

• #8

If you are using RSW EASunlock. On the disc there should be a PDF of instructions. If you didn't get those. Go to the site and download them, print them off to have with you as you work on the system. Follow them step by step until you get the hang of it. Must have a green good idle when codes are being read or you will gather loads of meaningless ****. Like a valve is stuck open and closed at same time. Stuff like that. If it's flashing red green, red green it's no good.