Are you sure that the plug at the alternator was in the good position.... didnt you try to plug it the other way around cos even if it's keyed these one row plugs can be forced?.... if it's certainly plugged well then the alternator is very suspect ....the engine ran well wit the alternator unplugged?
 
Yeah plug was definitely the Wright way even checked with old one to be sure and engine problem continued even when alt was unplugged thatnks
 
in this case the ECU remains suspect cos as i said in a previous post it could have got some AC voltage spike from the old alternator... also make sure that the crank sensor's wiring/plug was not disturbed .... eventually let's see what fault codes are stored in the ECU cos iirc the snap-on ethos can read the td5 ECU
 
The only way to test the alt would be to bench test it or if you had access to a known good one to put on the d2
 
the wastegate modulator will only send it to overboost at high revs, different symptoms, and as long as the engine running was not improved with unplugged alternator no need to swap it.... check the crank sensor wiring/plug and read fault codes
 
Hi sorry for the delay in replying I swapped the new alternator out for the old one I took off and the switching off issue stopped. As soon as I out the new one back in it returned. As for the running issue I had it plugged in and diagnosed and only real shown fault was egr value sticking. Cleared faults started up and was still running bad I've bought a blanking kit just waiting for it to arrive hoping it will solve problem and returning alternator for replacement tomorrow
 
Clean the MAP/IAT sensor in the inlet manifold when you bypass the EGR...actually cleaning the whole manifold inside would be a good move
 
Cleaned sensor other day to eliminate that. Had a thought could a faulty fuel pump be causing running problem as I can not hear fuel pump running when ignition is on. I've tried the pump pedal purge procedure as well and stood next to fuel filler cap and still hear no pump? Is this normal
 
Yes, in some cases it runs bad on residual pressure and PD suction for a while...which means your fuel system is well sealed, if you'll undo the FT sensor from the FPR to release the pressure it will not start anymore
 
Yes, you must hear the pump after ignition on for around 3 minutes then if the engine is not started it stops, in the purging sequence it used to work in stages but deffinitely it should run on ignition
 
Hi update to thread running problem solved fuel pump relay had gone switched relay and running sweet as a nut again thanks for all help guys now to change alt and fix the non stoping issue.
 

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