classic kev · Mar 5, 2012

Mr Noisy said:
First job wheel bearings and brakes and props and swivel bearings and change all transmissions oils and Hub and Swivel seals.

Second job strip the top end of the motor down and dig out all the oily charcoal and clean out all the breathers and pipes, and go through the whole injection system to test all components and check MAF readings and fit new plugs and genuine cap and rotor arm and leads if you fancy it, change engine oil and filter twice after washing out the rockers and plenum with brake cleaner, use 20w50 mineral oil.

Give it a strip down inside, remove the underlay and address the body rot. Do not replace the carpets.

Remove the front arch liners and rear mudflap brackets, underseal where necessary.

Remove all stickers and trim and give the paint a damn could conditioning.

And then it should be half right

Can't argue with that! Might be worth considering doing the timing chain, cam shaft and followers while you're in there though, oh and perhaps the water pump.

Mr Noisy · Mar 5, 2012

Yeah bit of a harsh list i know but honestly it's a true list.

Haynes for bedtime definitely!

Print off my post and use it as a to-do list, work through it slowly.

Engine is easy to strip, your not taking heads off so you can bugger anything up, it's just basics. Haynes explains it all anyway.

My motor was a proper barbecue, couldnt see the valve springs! It's done 120k now and after a few years heavy use I've finally sorted the niggles and oddments so it now run well. It's always been a bit tappety and even when fully warmed through and followers are pumped up I've recently been getting a slight tapping noise at low engine speeds so I'm guessing my followers are overdue replacement. It'll need a cam and chain aswell for sure, job for later this year though.

My point is that I'm sure mine was a poorly serviced motor when I got it and yet it now runs really well considering I've never gone further than taking rocker covers and plenum off. So though what Kev says is 100% true it's probably not necessary if you're not too keen on engine work and it seems to run alright. Absolutely definitely run it on 20w50 and change it regular.

You need to dig all the **** out of the top end and really get it well flushed. I actually ran mine around on test on flushing oil, a big no-no they say but I wanted to get it well cleaned out so I took it real steady. Gradually reduced the flushing oil mix with engine oil until it was straight engine oil and came out as clean as it went in.

Expensive way to condition the motor but it now keeps the oil crystal clear for weeks after I do a change, and it runs happily for 12 hours without turning off when we're out laning sometimes.

Good luck with it mate, early disco with v8 is a great combo, they're very reliable once you know them

rusty7 · Mar 5, 2012

Sorry Mr Noisy...totally mis read that and thought you were on about stripping the whole head down, cam and all.

I'll compile a stash of parts to do the above then. Couple of questions to help me along my way:

What should I use to clean the crap out? Liquid & tools?
How much oil will I need?
Any gaskets involved in this that need replacing?
Anyone got part numbers for any of these bits and a suggestion of where's good to get stuff from?
How often do you suggest to change the oil?

Sorry for the question, I'm just keen on a head start as I haven't got hold of a haynes yet...Be handy to get hold of a Bentley manual...had one for the VR6 and it was the most helpful thing in the history of engine work!

Runs sweet though! No strange noises, tapping or idling issues. 100mile trip home and it didn;t even get to half way up the temp guage with the fans set to cold inside as it was hot...

Mind it's only got just over 80k on the clock!

With regard to the brakes, from the paperwork, looks like discs and calipers were done in 2005. Time for them to be done again for age purpose or just wait till wear necessitates a change?

Thanks again guys! Loving this forum! So helpful!

Rus.

Mr Noisy · Mar 5, 2012

rusty7 said:
What should I use to clean the crap out? Liquid & tools? Brake cleaner/standard socket set/ screwdriver set/ various picks and hooks and scrapers etc/ wire brushes/ compressed air if possible!

How much oil will I need? Engine oil? 5.7ltr per fill. Buy Comma Sonic ideally, failing that Halfords Classic. Needs to be designed for old engines and/or be a premium 20w50 mineral (because basic 20w50 mineral is like the cheapest of the worst recycled budget engine oil usually)

Any gaskets involved in this that need replacing? Urm, mine has cork gaskets on the rockers cos its a 3.5, later engines might have rubber. I got new cork ones by mistake but upgrade to rubber is preferable.

Anyone got part numbers for any of these bits and a suggestion of where's good to get stuff from? A local land rover supplier is a start, having said that everything you need will be available from local motor factors, often better quality than Britpart. 'Payen' gaskets are ideal, comma sonic as above, OEM filters like Mahle or Fram. Euro Car Parts are the big name supplier in the game, but for parts at work we use local motor factors aswell who supply Payen gaskets and Lucas parts, for instance.

How often do you suggest to change the oil? As soon as it gets too dirty for your liking. My car does about 1500 to 2000 miles a year and I change the oil around every 6 months. Only does off road though with lots of throttle so motorway cruising might go easier on the oil...?

Sorry for the question, I'm just keen on a head start as I haven't got hold of a haynes yet...Be handy to get hold of a Bentley manual...had one for the VR6 and it was the most helpful thing in the history of engine work! Not sure on manuals mate, my Haynes does the job just fine!

Runs sweet though! No strange noises, tapping or idling issues. 100mile trip home and it didn;t even get to half way up the temp guage with the fans set to cold inside as it was hot... Mind it's only got just over 80k on the clock! . That sounds excellent, first sign of trouble is getting too hot. 80k on clock sounds brill too!

With regard to the brakes, from the paperwork, looks like discs and calipers were done in 2005. Time for them to be done again for age purpose or just wait till wear necessitates a change? Evaluate them mate. Discs don't really expire due to age, pads again don't really get old if you know what I mean, pistons might warrant a clean up though, they usually do, and a full fluid change and bleed would certainly help. Clutch fluid too!

Thanks again guys! Loving this forum! So helpful! No worries mate

Rus is gay

Cheers!

classic kev

Well-Known Member

Mr Noisy

Coming in your ears.

rusty7

New Member

Mr Noisy

Coming in your ears.

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