you dont move punmp body ,pulley has slotted holes ,can be reached if not aircon by removing tin cover off front timing cover ,putting crank pin in rear and checking /adjusting with pump pin and 22mm spanner on center nut after loosening 3 flange bolts
 
lillypad1 said:
hi update, tried bypassing sedi filter but no change ie used bottle of derv direct to lift pump, but what i have found is that when engine running on tickover i undid each injector pipe at top of injector, 3 sprayed fuel and made engine tone change but one sprayed but didnt change tone of engine, i took that injector out and cleaned it but after refitting it didnt alter anything, also undid top bolt on fuel filter to see if there was any air but just fuel came out. would a faulty injector cause my problems ?:eek:
Click to expand...
although you do need to check turbo drain isnt blocked
 
so to recap, put pin in bottom engine crank pulley, put pin in ip hole then undo the three bolts then the big nut on ip i turn to advance or retard ?
 
You need to put the pin in the flywheel on tdc (threaded hole at rear of engine).If timing is right the i/p hole should be at around 11.00 o'clock and a 10mm pin will slide in-if hole is close but pin wont slide in,undo the three flange bolts and using 22mm spanner adjust until 10 mm pin slides right in-lock up the three bolts,while applying light clockwise pressure on the 22mm spanner to hold it tight against the pin .remove all pins before you attempt to turn it over.
note :mine has several pin locations on the flywheel-you need the one which sets the i/p around 11 or 12 o'clock
 
ok cheers, how do i get tdc, sorry for newbie questions but no funds to take to garage so with all your help hopefully i can sort it, is hole on bell housing for pin, cheers
 
Hi lillypad, the whole point about cambelt timing is to ensure that a number of different elements are all lined up correctly.

You need to remove the fan and the timing chest cover so you can see the timing pulleys and belt.

So as others have said, the first thing is to position and then pin the flywheel (using a timing pin) via the bellhousing at top dead centre. To find TDC you put a socket on the crankshaft nut and manually turn the crankshaft until you see the screw hole in the flywheel.

Then ensure that the camshaft pulley lines up with it's timing mark. Loosen the 3 10mm retaining bolts on the injection pump pulley then slot in the timing pin.

Retighten the retaining bolts, remove all the pins then manually turn the engine over 2 full revolutions and recheck the alignment of all the timing marks.

If all good, torque up the inj pump retaining bolts, and refit everything and your timing is done.

Check Ebay for a TDi 300 timing kit.
 
hi, found flywheel slot looking through bell housing, got it central then looked at ip , should be around 11 oclock ( timing slot ) mine is at 12 oclock, double checked flywheel as read theres two slots but no its defo on right mark, im thinking its jumped a few teeth, ordered a new belt kit:eek:
 
lillypad1 said:
hi, found flywheel slot looking through bell housing, got it central then looked at ip , should be around 11 oclock ( timing slot ) mine is at 12 oclock, double checked flywheel as read theres two slots but no its defo on right mark, im thinking its jumped a few teeth, ordered a new belt kit:eek:
Click to expand...


Before you go too far here's a couple of things to check:

1. With the pin in the flywheel, look at the crankshaft cambelt pulley and check that it is lined at at 12'clock;

2. Then check the camshaft cambelt pulley mark and ensure that it lines up with the mark on the timing case;

3. Assuming this is so, slacken the three 10mm bolts (only use a 6-sided socket or you'll regret it!!) that hold the injection pump pulley in place (this is V. IMPORTANT) then put your locking pin through the pulley hole and into the pump. This is now lined up correctly. Now re-torque those three bolts and remove all timing pins.

4. Now manually turn over the engine two full revolutions and check that all timing marks still line up - including re-fitting the timing pins.

5. If everything still lines up perfectly, the engine is now timed. Remove all the pins.

6. If you want you can fire up the engine to check all is ok, but only for up to 30sec max - if sounds ok put it all back together.

7. Apply beer to all internal human parts and relax in the knowledge that you are a mechanical genius and have saved loads of dosh and learned more about your Disco.
 
hi thanks for reply, i havnt stripped down front end yet only locked flywheel and ip which is at 12 oclock position, crankshaft pulley, is it marked so i can check without stipping down, i know i have to take apart to see camshaft mark ? cheers:eek:
 
lillypad1 said:
hi thanks for reply, i havnt stripped down front end yet only locked flywheel and ip which is at 12 oclock position, crankshaft pulley, is it marked so i can check without stipping down, i know i have to take apart to see camshaft mark ? cheers:eek:
Click to expand...

Until you have removed the timing case cover, you can't see the cambelt or it's pulleys, so obviously you can't line them up.

Re the crankshaft cambelt pulley, in TDC the Woodruff key which holds the pulley stationary on the shaft should be in the 12'oclock position.
 
i am in ibstock. so if you need a hand and can get it over let me know, i e pm me your contact details and i will talk you through it by old fashioned method of the telling bone. ron.
 
put link up but didn't work .ron. see next one down . i hope i got the bloomin thing right this time, (bloody computamabobs)grrrrrr.

ron.
 
Last edited:
well cambelt fitted and started up but sounds terrible, found the problem and its not good, i took off rocker cover and were the 5 bolts that hold down the rocker shaft only two were holding it down, other 3 had stripped there thread so cam was up and down, no push rods bent, im stuck what to do now, shall i try and drill down deeper into head and tap threads and get longer bolts, i cant afford a head for it, any ideas please:(
 
if there's enough metal left you could try a helicoil repair but i don't know if it'd be strong enough. maybe some one else would know.
 
I'd go helicoil kit first .. the head's effectively nackered so even if you screw up the 'fix' you're no worse off. If it works you're quids in .. ;)
 
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