There's a relatively easy check you can do on the mounts to see if they're ok.
From underneath the engine look up at each mount & you should see a hole in the bottom steel part (maybe about 5mm in diameter). The rubber part should be about 10mm above the steel for a new mtg, but if its within a couple of mm or touching the mtg is kn***kered.
Changing them is a pain, but can be done without any special tools & in your drive in a couple of hours if you've got a jack.
If you google td5 engine mounts you'll find lots of guides to help describe the detail. Basically you've got to release the retaining nuts on both mtgs & then lift the front of the engine with the jack to lift the engine off the mtgs. Make sure you use a piece of wood under the sump to spread the load of the engine as you lift it.
If you don't release both mtgs retaining nuts, it is much harder to move the engine enough to get each mtg out !
I think it can be done with the viscous fan in place, but it's much easier / safer for your rad if it's removed.
On ours there wasn't much shuddering on start-up / shut-down, but it made horrible metal to metal & other banging noises when going over speed bumps & potholes. Much more refined ((at least for td5) when replaced.
BTW all forum reports suggest only using Genuine LR replacements - as others are often worse than your kna***red LR parts !
Paul
2001 td5, 185,000 miles & climbing
