The V8 man
Well-Known Member
Can anyone reccommend where i can get a boot floor in the surrey area, i tried YRM but they dont do them ?
Pikey
Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
I got stuff
New Member
Check eBay, most of the biggish sellers list them on there.
A wee bit advice bud, thoroughly check the complete boot floor area before you buy as you will probably end up needing the sides adjacent to the wheel arch and boot floor supports.
Saves on postage if you get it all in one go...
Off-course you may have thought about that already ...................!
A wee bit advice bud, thoroughly check the complete boot floor area before you buy as you will probably end up needing the sides adjacent to the wheel arch and boot floor supports.
Saves on postage if you get it all in one go...
Off-course you may have thought about that already ...................!
Freediscoranger
Active Member
Paddocks. 48 quid ish, for whole boot floor
Discodad
Well-Known Member
Did you leave it in Braintree
Hope you get sorted soon. Don't forget the pic's as Mine will need doing within next year.
666 george
Well-Known Member
I'm doing mine next weekend. Got some z section from a local company to do the channels the floor pan sits in.
Getting the shcutz gun out after as well (that's the bit I'm not looking forward too)
Getting the shcutz gun out after as well (that's the bit I'm not looking forward too)
shocker
Well-Known Member
Do the searches,find the info,pics and step-by-steps ga-feckin-lore mate !
With a bit of thought about heat it is possible to get some good amount of the shutz on before the floor goes in.Otherwise you are going to have trouble being sure of coverage EVEN IF you take the fuel tank out. Personally I go with a few rollered coats of hammerite type paint all over before starting. Clamp it all up in a dry run to mark out your spot weld holes and other weld sites,prep them then you van shutz around them. Using a big block of brass as a heat sink close to the weld sites will mean less of the paint/shutz is burned.
Are you brushing on seam sealer ? The first one I did was on a weekend and I had run out of brush on so I used a sikaflex copy mastic - laid thick beads and then a plastering pallet knife to spread and flat. It worked a treat and I have done a few more the same way since, sometimes use a cheap inch and a half paintbrush with the bristles cut short to spread.
What caught me out was the sparks from the grinder - they burn into the window and screen glass and stay there. So now I gaffer tape stuff up to catch them at the expense of daylight to work in.
Its all on here if you have a root around.Let us know how it goes.
With a bit of thought about heat it is possible to get some good amount of the shutz on before the floor goes in.Otherwise you are going to have trouble being sure of coverage EVEN IF you take the fuel tank out. Personally I go with a few rollered coats of hammerite type paint all over before starting. Clamp it all up in a dry run to mark out your spot weld holes and other weld sites,prep them then you van shutz around them. Using a big block of brass as a heat sink close to the weld sites will mean less of the paint/shutz is burned.
Are you brushing on seam sealer ? The first one I did was on a weekend and I had run out of brush on so I used a sikaflex copy mastic - laid thick beads and then a plastering pallet knife to spread and flat. It worked a treat and I have done a few more the same way since, sometimes use a cheap inch and a half paintbrush with the bristles cut short to spread.
What caught me out was the sparks from the grinder - they burn into the window and screen glass and stay there. So now I gaffer tape stuff up to catch them at the expense of daylight to work in.
Its all on here if you have a root around.Let us know how it goes.
The V8 man
Well-Known Member
Well i got the boot floor out it wasnt easy and you have to be very careful cutting along inside where the door shuts, as the fuel tank is about half an inch under the floor !, the rear supprt was shot so will be replaced i used a long sharp cold chisel to cut through the spot welds as i bent the floor up out of the way the other supports are ok so will be cleaned up and rust treated and painted.
I have also started to cut the cills completely of with a recip saw and am going to replace them with a 60mm x 120mm x3mm thick box section which is pretty heavy so should double up as rock sliders, these are also tricky to remove as you have to leave the body mounts in place if they havent rotted out, but cutting along under the floor is pretty easy going, remembering to hold up the floor when cutting i used a couple of jacks with 4x2 under the floor for support , once the cutting is done i will clean the metal to enable me to get a good weld to the floor, ill let you know how i get on.
I have also started to cut the cills completely of with a recip saw and am going to replace them with a 60mm x 120mm x3mm thick box section which is pretty heavy so should double up as rock sliders, these are also tricky to remove as you have to leave the body mounts in place if they havent rotted out, but cutting along under the floor is pretty easy going, remembering to hold up the floor when cutting i used a couple of jacks with 4x2 under the floor for support , once the cutting is done i will clean the metal to enable me to get a good weld to the floor, ill let you know how i get on.
The V8 man
Well-Known Member
Oh and i have taken pics but cant get them on here as it says they are too big, anyone know how to shrink em to fit lol ?
666 george
Well-Known Member
Just did mine last weekend, 1 1/2 days it took. All the channels on the edges had gone as well. Just drilled off all the spot welds & lifted it up, easy...........well ok wasn't that easy.
I guide how to do it come in handy.
I guide how to do it come in handy.
The V8 man
Well-Known Member
Yeah the edges on mine were gone too so i had 3 pieces of steel bent they were around 50mm then had a 10mm right angle bend put on the edge then welded that to the new floor section so it lips over almost touching the wheel arches each side running the full length of the floor, then i will drill holes to spot weld it should be nice and strong !
