P

patrickr90

Member
Hi

I'm thinking of using Dinitrol to protect the underside of my 1986 Ninety. However, it's fitted with a galvanized chassis and I want to keep that bare as I like the look. Dinitrol seems to be mainly a spray product so, apart from doing a (possibly fiddly) masking job undereath, is there another equivalent "paint on" product that will do a good job. I've used black Wax Oil on a previous vehicle.

Thanks
 
Simple solution is to use a clear wax. Even the galvanized chassis will benefit from the protection. They do corrode but just a lot slower than painted steel and a coating of wax will help keep the look you like.
 
Last edited:
Dinitrol do a clear wax you could use.
Take the rust back on the axles as much as you can, use a rust converter then paint them. You could spray with a wax if wanted afterwards.
It all needs to be very clean before applying anything though.
Don't forget cavity wax inside box sections, also the bulkhead.
Have fun (actually you won't as it's an endless chore but atleast you are halfway there with the chassis)
 
Anaconda said:
Dinitrol do a clear wax you could use.
Take the rust back on the axles as much as you can, use a rust converter then paint them. You could spray with a wax if wanted afterwards.
It all needs to be very clean before applying anything though.
Don't forget cavity wax inside box sections, also the bulkhead.
Have fun (actually you won't as it's an endless chore but atleast you are halfway there with the chassis)
Click to expand...

😂 Thanks for this. Is there a good rust converter? Painting the axles: I thought about using Hammerite Under Body Seal which also contains Wax Oyl....
 

Hydrate-80 - Bilt Hamber

Hydrate-80 is a rust converter which provides unparalleled protection to rusted steel surfaces.
bilthamber.com bilthamber.com
I prefer these products, as slightly cheaper and seem just the same.
Axles and mechanical parts use paint, Hammerite is easily available, not sure why you would use underseal on them.
Paint them and use whatever clear wax spray you choose to use.
Then each year or so give it a good clean and do it all again.
 
Just do not use that bitumen based thick black underseal anywhere. In time it cracks and water gets in behind and there is hidden corrosion worse than a bare chassis.
When asked to inspect a vehicle with that stuff on it shiny new or other wise I will just walk away.
 
As @Anaconda says, Wax is the final treatment not the only treatment. If the axles, and other things are rusting they need the rust removed (wire wheel or similar) treating with a rust converter/stabiliser, painting with primer (I like red oxide for steel, zinc 182 for galv, a quality etch primer for aluminium), painting with a top coat (I used black tractor enamel on my axles and chassis brackets), and then wax over the top of that (I use dinitrol 4941for the outside of my underbody, but this is black).
As mentioned above if you want to keep the galv chassis "bare" there are clear wax available, I believe lanoguard is clear but have not used it personally. But I would seriously consider painting the chassis. My glav chassis is now 15 years old and I regret painting it when it was fitted. There are areas that were showing surface rust on the body swap I did where they had not been waxed as were inaccessible.

I believe @lightning used a clear wax on his new defender, he might be able to give some recommendations and real world experience for how long the treatment lasted.
 
Any chassis wax well worth adding 25 ish percent hydraulic oil, makes it creep better and keeps it soft for ages.
 
tottot said:
Just do not use that bitumen based thick black underseal anywhere. In time it cracks and water gets in behind and there is hidden corrosion worse than a bare chassis.
When asked to inspect a vehicle with that stuff on it shiny new or other wise I will just walk away.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. I've used this stuff before. Hammerite Underbody Seal with Added WaxOyl

www.carbuilder.com

Hammerite Waxoyl Underbody Seal 2 1/2 Litre Black

This is a One-coat, heavy duty protection for underbody, wheel arches and other high impact areas. It will protect against stones, grit, water and salt and has the additional benefit of reducing drumming and road noise. Underbody Seal contains anti-corrosion chemicals and will not crack, chip or...
www.carbuilder.com www.carbuilder.com

It is bitumen but has wax oil in - so not prone to cracking? Is this an exception to your rule or would you steer clear of it?
 
patrickr90 said:
Thanks for the advice. I've used this stuff before. Hammerite Underbody Seal with Added WaxOyl

www.carbuilder.com

Hammerite Waxoyl Underbody Seal 2 1/2 Litre Black

This is a One-coat, heavy duty protection for underbody, wheel arches and other high impact areas. It will protect against stones, grit, water and salt and has the additional benefit of reducing drumming and road noise. Underbody Seal contains anti-corrosion chemicals and will not crack, chip or...
www.carbuilder.com www.carbuilder.com

It is bitumen but has wax oil in - so not prone to cracking? Is this an exception to your rule or would you steer clear of it?
Click to expand...
That is literally the stuff he was referring too.... however to be fair I think the previous comments about it were maybe a little unfair, people do use it to good effect too but I feel like if you use it in the wrong circumstances it can cause more issues.
Waxoyl is a bit old school and theres better options these days, but my 110 had been treated to generous amounts of it over the years by a previous owner and its still in pretty good condition underneath for a 37 year old vehicle thats spent its life in Scotland. Still on its original chassis and its had very little welding too.

My biggest annoyance is every time I do any work I'm left covered in the stuff, I should buy shares in Swarfega :rolleyes:
 
dag019 said:
As @Anaconda says, Wax is the final treatment not the only treatment. If the axles, and other things are rusting they need the rust removed (wire wheel or similar) treating with a rust converter/stabiliser, painting with primer (I like red oxide for steel, zinc 182 for galv, a quality etch primer for aluminium), painting with a top coat (I used black tractor enamel on my axles and chassis brackets), and then wax over the top of that (I use dinitrol 4941for the outside of my underbody, but this is black).
As mentioned above if you want to keep the galv chassis "bare" there are clear wax available, I believe lanoguard is clear but have not used it personally. But I would seriously consider painting the chassis. My glav chassis is now 15 years old and I regret painting it when it was fitted. There are areas that were showing surface rust on the body swap I did where they had not been waxed as were inaccessible.

I believe @lightning used a clear wax on his new defender, he might be able to give some recommendations and real world experience for how long the treatment lasted.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this. So what would you treat the wheel arches the same way as the axles? - ie. rust removed, treated, primer, top coat, wax?
 
patrickr90 said:
Thanks for the advice. I've used this stuff before. Hammerite Underbody Seal with Added WaxOyl

www.carbuilder.com

Hammerite Waxoyl Underbody Seal 2 1/2 Litre Black

This is a One-coat, heavy duty protection for underbody, wheel arches and other high impact areas. It will protect against stones, grit, water and salt and has the additional benefit of reducing drumming and road noise. Underbody Seal contains anti-corrosion chemicals and will not crack, chip or...
www.carbuilder.com www.carbuilder.com

It is bitumen but has wax oil in - so not prone to cracking? Is this an exception to your rule or would you steer clear of it?
Click to expand...
I don't find that cracks but I also don't find it's any good.
You need to remove rust, treat, prime, paint then apply a wax spray.
If you have a good clean chassis with good paint then you can just use a wax bases spray like Bilthamber and fill if with cavity wax.
Chances are yours, like ours, are happily rusting away from the inside out.
Most of the time doing something to the outside of the chassis just makes us feel better as it looks nice, especially if you just throw some black stuff on top of the rust.
Painting will last longer than the wax spray on its own, either way non of it lasts that long, it's an endless job and you still end up welding it up.
 
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