Guys.
Managed to get the Defender 300tdi mostly back together now. Just minor fettling to finish, but the engine is in and running, and it moves under its own power.

The fuel return pipe has got a big leak on the outer copper washer. I have tried annealing the washers, tried new washers and cleaned everything up a few times but it still leaks.

The end of the metal pipe where it joins the flexi pipe must have got damaged by the previous owner taking the engine out and had to be twisted straight, but is still bent and kinked.

My only choice seems to be to order a new pipe and banjo bolts/washers. And hope that will cure it.

From the Haynes, the return banjo bolt has the bigger spanner size banjo bolt and some sort of flow restrictor, the other is a plain banjo which is what I have done.

Cheers

Kerrin

have u over tightend it?

probably yes, but only to try and nip it up to try and stem the flow, what sort of pressure of fuel are we talking about on this pipe? does it only need to be nipped up?

Cheers

if you've over tightend it the banjo will prob be fooked they just need pinching up normally

Righto.

As the end bit is bent anyway, might as well order a new pipe.

Cheers

New pipe just arrived. It is a plain steel pipe, but the one on the fender has a threaded end on it, which is possibly a nut and olive. Just about to go through the parts manual to see where I went wrong, or is it just a case of ordering/fitting a new olive and nut.

Two steps forward and three back at the moment!! (Bug--r)

Yep you need the olive and nut - can't you remove em from the old pipe?

Dont think so but not really tried TBH

I think I found the right part numbers NRC9770 and NRC9771, less than £2, maybe worth a visit to the dealer tomorrow, but if they dont have them, I can make up a little order.

Might as well get all new stuff, which is going to be OK. Then use the old stuff, once you've checked it over, for spare/replacement.

Yep, got it ordered, despite the washing machine ****ing water everywhere in the middle of my tinternet time PAH!

Cheers Guys

New pipe fitted, no way the old olive was coming off, the new olive needed tapping on!

Leak fixed, found a crack in the old pipe near the banjo.

Now there is a fuel drip from the throttle cable pivot on the pump, hopefully won't need a new pump, funds are running low :-(

get a new spindle, bush and o-ring,takes about half hour to fix.

Phew, thanks. Where is the best place to source the bits. Or will any of the big suppliers have them.

Cheers for the help.

Some info here: OT 300tdi injector pump leak

DEFENDER90-DAZ said:

Some info here: OT 300tdi injector pump leak

Click to expand...

i just wacked out the bush on mine with a drift..thats a good piccy on that link....

while yer in there ya mayaswell tune the amount of fuel it gets .........

Yep doesn't show it step by step but does show how to do it, think you need the pump model number to get the right bits...

lol

Stage one is to increase the turbo pressure ...you must shorten the waste gate rod by about 6 mm to raise the turbo pressure to 16 psi..easy on a 200 pig on a 300 ...mind you dont loose the circlip and loosen the locking nut first ...make a length of 1/2 in bar with a slot in the end to push the rod back into place ...essential on a 300. Use a gauge to measure the pressure ...T piece in pipe to injection pump...fuel pressure gauge is often the cheapest to buy ...plastic screen washer T is OK. ( the above adjustment alone will give no increase in performance)

Stage 2

remove the four screws from the power valve on top of the pump ( squarish plate with brass cover in centre ..big screwdriver very tight) The top of the plate will spring up...notice how far it rises on top of the spring.(say 7mm) Remove the cover. Then you will see a black diaphragm..if you want with tippex mark its positon relative to the casing and then remove the diaphragm (lift edges and pull up) remove the spring underneath (do not move the trottle when the diaphragm is out !!) at the bottom of the cavity you will see a toothed wheel. You need to screw this down to reduce the lift in the top plate to about 3mm ( 7 - 4 =3 ) Wind it down with the edge of a screwdriver and then re fit everything to check the lift ..rarely I have had to remove the ali wheel and grind some off the bottom to get it to go down enough. Now examine the shaft on the diaphragm ...you will see an off centre cut out at the bottom ...re fit the diaphragm with the deepest part of the cut out towards the front of the vehicle...this gives you max fuel. dont forget the spring and check you still have some lift in the top plate as you screw it down...thats it done .....If you do have some smoke then you have two choices ...increase the turbo pressure or reduce the fuel a little by rotating the diaphragm a little clock or anticloc it dont matter... I have rarely found this the case ...no need to re adjust for the MOT all mine had very low c02 and passed easy....
I do not advise adjusting the screw under the brass cap or the main fuel adjuster at the rear ...you may get a tiney bit more but when you get smoke its a pain to know what to adjust ..adjust only the three items mentioned ...turbo pressure...diaphragm rotation and spring pressure...

DEFENDER90-DAZ said:

Yep doesn't show it step by step but does show how to do it, think you need the pump model number to get the right bits...

Click to expand...

yep,easy to wind em up as above tho...

The screw under the cap increases off boost fuel - so a quarter turn will make it pull better before the turbo starts boosting

The Ferkin BoB said:

yep,easy to wind em up as above tho...

Click to expand...

I was talking about fixing the leak Bob not turning up the pump :doh: