sherifsalem
New Member
I am about to install the EGR removal kit i bought from paddock spares, my Defender is post 2002 therefore i have seen lots of posts on forums (TD5 Alive EGR BYPASS KIT) but once more i would like if someone can confirm my doubt.
The classic part that all agree upon for a post 2002 TD5 LH drive:
1- (Right side) Remove flexible metal hose that secures the Exhaust manifold to the EGR cooling (Heat exchanger) and blank both with plates.
2- (Left side) Remove flexible metal hose that secures the EGR cooling (Heat exchanger) to EGR valve and blank EGR cooling with plate.
3- (Left side) It is IMPERATIVE to disconnect the blue vacuum hoses (rubber elbows) from EGR valve and BLANK them off securely (Use Rivet Head or self tapping screw) or else brake assistance could be severely compromised.
4- (Left side) Remove EGR Valve attached to inlet manifold.
5- (Left side) Loosen the Jubilee clip to release the intercooler air intake hose to the EGR valve.
6- (Left side) Connect the REPLACEMENT piece to the inlet manifold and the intercooler outlet via using the same intercooler air intake hose.
Now comes for me the confusing part and I think many could:
Some forums recommend to disconnect 2 electrical connectors (only to unplug the 2 electrical connectors) from EGR modulator (Green and Black plugs on EGR modulators which are located on the left hand inner wing) and finally leave all vacuum pipes attached to the modulator and brake servo pipe.
Some others recommend no to unplug or disconnect these 2 electrical connectors (Black & Green) not to disturb the electronics and ECU as essentially you have already eliminated the mechanical part by removing the EGR.
P.S. Some enthusiasts remove the whole setup I dont wish to do that because maybe I could need to connect it again.
I hope to receive practical information from enthusiasts that already did this and what they recommend?
i was about to start the replacement tonight
Che
The classic part that all agree upon for a post 2002 TD5 LH drive:
1- (Right side) Remove flexible metal hose that secures the Exhaust manifold to the EGR cooling (Heat exchanger) and blank both with plates.
2- (Left side) Remove flexible metal hose that secures the EGR cooling (Heat exchanger) to EGR valve and blank EGR cooling with plate.
3- (Left side) It is IMPERATIVE to disconnect the blue vacuum hoses (rubber elbows) from EGR valve and BLANK them off securely (Use Rivet Head or self tapping screw) or else brake assistance could be severely compromised.
4- (Left side) Remove EGR Valve attached to inlet manifold.
5- (Left side) Loosen the Jubilee clip to release the intercooler air intake hose to the EGR valve.
6- (Left side) Connect the REPLACEMENT piece to the inlet manifold and the intercooler outlet via using the same intercooler air intake hose.
Now comes for me the confusing part and I think many could:
Some forums recommend to disconnect 2 electrical connectors (only to unplug the 2 electrical connectors) from EGR modulator (Green and Black plugs on EGR modulators which are located on the left hand inner wing) and finally leave all vacuum pipes attached to the modulator and brake servo pipe.
Some others recommend no to unplug or disconnect these 2 electrical connectors (Black & Green) not to disturb the electronics and ECU as essentially you have already eliminated the mechanical part by removing the EGR.
P.S. Some enthusiasts remove the whole setup I dont wish to do that because maybe I could need to connect it again.
I hope to receive practical information from enthusiasts that already did this and what they recommend?
i was about to start the replacement tonight
Che