doz

Active Member
Bugger. Real small leak but makes car smell bad. Can't move O ring screw and think it's the matrix anyway as carpets are dry. So dash out. Anybody got tips
 
Remove side vents pull clip behind them down. Pull ducts that feed them forwards ripping them off their screws. Makes it a lot easier to get the four bolts through frame into dash out and back. In the vent ducts just cut a slot for screw and adjust so they are a nice tight sliding fit for refit. Make sure you disconnect sensors from front of dash. Flick out centre screen ducting trim in top of dash to do this. Takes about an hour to get out longer to refit. If you have not done one before time could vary considerably. Best to remove A post trims if they are in good nick, they won't be for long if you leave them in.
 
Aye I've just been reading RAVE. What a ballsache. Steering column and all out.
 
I'm trying not to disturb the A/C to much. So want to try and remove matrix while leaving the box in place.
 
I'm trying not to disturb the A/C to much. So want to try and remove matrix while leaving the box in place.

You would disturb the aircon quite a lot removing heater true. You have to disconnect the expansion valve. Looks like your in for a bit of a struggle.
 
Before you do all this, is it worth trying to find out a bit more about what could be causing the leak/smell?

When my O rings leaked there was no real smell that I was aware of, apart from that kind of vaguely wet smell you get from a damp carpet - but even that was indistinct. Coolant contains antifreeze so shouldn't be a breeding ground for bacteria, plus if your matrix was leaking I'd expect the carpets to be to wet somewhere?

Also, if you're losing coolant through the matrix you'll be needing to top it up regularly - is this something you're doing?

Regarding the smell... Could it be bacteria growing in your AC system? This would account for the dry carpets.

I'm not saying it's not your heater matrix, but I'd want to be very sure before I did something as monumental as taking the dash to bits.
 
Before you do all this, is it worth trying to find out a bit more about what could be causing the leak/smell?

When my O rings leaked there was no real smell that I was aware of, apart from that kind of vaguely wet smell you get from a damp carpet - but even that was indistinct. Coolant contains antifreeze so shouldn't be a breeding ground for bacteria, plus if your matrix was leaking I'd expect the carpets to be to wet somewhere?

Also, if you're losing coolant through the matrix you'll be needing to top it up regularly - is this something you're doing?

Regarding the smell... Could it be bacteria growing in your AC system? This would account for the dry carpets.

I'm not saying it's not your heater matrix, but I'd want to be very sure before I did something as monumental as taking the dash to bits.

A very good point. :):)
 
A good point indeed. However I do have the dreaded pink gunge round the matrix pipe connector which I'm unable to fix as the screw is seized solid. It remains dry but I am loosing a very tiny amount of water from the cooling system (I mean really really small). I've had some problems with the drains from the heater box being blocked. I managed to get an air line to them and blow them out this make things better (box was flooded) however I'm always getting that horrible sickly sweet smell from the heater which is worse when I have the temperature turned up. I've collect the condensate which drips from the drains in a clean container when I've had the car idling on the drive. I have no sign of antifreeze in that but yet the sickly sweet antifreeze smell remains. When I had to do the blend motor I noticed dry antifreeze stains on the outlets to the front drivers foot well. This appears to be the dreaded O rings but was now all dry as is the connection so thought its an old leak. So this has directed me to the Matrix maybe leaking a tiny bit. As I can't get the screw to move for the matrix connections if it is that I fear the dash will still have to come out as I can't see another way of getting the screw to move without me actually getting to it. I fear I'm doomed to do the most horrid job there is on a P38 :(
 
Just had a thought. If I had a bore scope telly thingywotsit. Could I look inside the the heater box from the lower vents at the matrix? Or is it a far to convoluted route?
 
Just had a thought. If I had a bore scope telly thingywotsit. Could I look inside the the heater box from the lower vents at the matrix? Or is it a far to convoluted route?

If you have coolant residue around the O'ring area then they are weeping. Best get them done before they give way altogether.
 
If you have coolant residue around the O'ring area then they are weeping. Best get them done before they give way altogether.

Which in my case means hoinking (technical term)the wretched dash out :eek:

BORRAX!! :bolt:
 
Have you got a piccy of the kit? So little room I can't see how I'd get in there
 
Have you got a piccy of the kit? So little room I can't see how I'd get in there

I think this was the kit I used Screw Extractor 5 Piece Set | Screwfix.com. Once all the bits of trim are removed there is enough room to get a drill in there to get the screw out (you'll need to remove the plastic piping going to the rear vents). I tried first with a cordless drill and it didn't have enough power to extract. With the mains drill it came out straight away. Stick a towel under there first as a fair bit of water will come out.
 
I think this was the kit I used Screw Extractor 5 Piece Set | Screwfix.com. Once all the bits of trim are removed there is enough room to get a drill in there to get the screw out (you'll need to remove the plastic piping going to the rear vents). I tried first with a cordless drill and it didn't have enough power to extract. With the mains drill it came out straight away. Stick a towel under there first as a fair bit of water will come out.
Blow the water out with an air line before you start.
 
I think this was the kit I used Screw Extractor 5 Piece Set | Screwfix.com. Once all the bits of trim are removed there is enough room to get a drill in there to get the screw out (you'll need to remove the plastic piping going to the rear vents). I tried first with a cordless drill and it didn't have enough power to extract. With the mains drill it came out straight away. Stick a towel under there first as a fair bit of water will come out.

Just drill the head off, then tap screw through you should be able to get screw out with a small pair of vice grips. Bit of Plus gas will help. Not WD40, Plus gas.
 
Blow the water out with an air line before you start.

Yep disconnect hoses under bonnet. Put a blow gun in L/H pipe, looking from front of car. Seal with a rag and gentle pressure will blow all the water out of the matrix.
 

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