Hi

Planning on doing `a bit` of towing in my 3 tonner D1 `94 and have picked up what I think is the right bar but would like someone to confirm which one it is please; ie an early or late D1 bar and should it fit as expected to my D1V8. See pic.

Fitting it will require me to cut out a bit of the petrol tank guard (it has an LPG tank in the tail too), easy.

There are two holes in the underside of the chassis at the rear to attach the head, and the arms `seem` (so far) to marry up with the transport lug bolts further up the chassis when offering it up.

Two issues:

First is getting the right bolts and then getting them down thru the chassis with the HD Bumper in place; is that possible or will it require bumper removal etc.. ? Will the bumper require drilling? And do said bolts go in from the top of the chassis and down thru to bottom side? And what is `the talk` about `spacers`; where to they go, inside the chassis? If so how is that done?

Second, bolting the arms to the transport lug bolts (to be replaced) seems straighforward. However, remembering I will be towing 2 tonnes possibly, will it need more reinforcement. And will any spacers be required there also. In addition there are two brackets welded to the rear axle (see pics), is it worth getting said reinforcement bars made up if not already available, to attach to the transport/chassis lugs that the towbar arms are going to be bolted to? Or will I be asking for trouble with that..

There doesn`t seem to be much information and/or pictures/video detailing this hence my posting.

I have found some info on bolts required depending upon it being an early or late D1&Bar : M10 x 130 for the chassis sides and M12 x 100 for the rear chassis cross member. But is that right..

So for a 1994 D1 am I going in the right direction fitting this, any advice or useful experience on this appreciated.

Thanks for reading.

JUST GOT ROUND to fitting the towbar.

Difficult bits were getting the bolts out that were rustwelded into the chassis sides holding the JLoops/transport/recovery points; And cutting the steel plate tank protection to allow slotting in of said towbar. Its a `94 D1 V8, pretty well kept, considering. Cutting discs were Erbauer 1mm metals, easy cut with them, had to lower to plate to be comfortable distance away from tank tho`.

The bolts I chose were : 2 * M12 * 120ish(cut from 130s) as the 100s simply were not long enough for the chassis cross member the towbar head is bolted up to; I did add a steel plate topside approx 4mm thick thru which the bolts come up thru, but even so, the 100s would not be suitable, so go 110s at least, assuming you have the same year of D1 and towbar. I also have HD bumpers, not that they make any difference to the fitting .. but didn`t know that beforehand. The two side chassis bolts are M10 130s, all nylock with washers. These two old bolts needed a chisel hammer to get them out after snapping of the boltheads with spanners/wrench. Chisel hammer got them out in 5 seconds, nice! Glad nothing had to be cut out and welded... it being in the petrol tank area.

The `spacers` that have to go into the M10s are a ridiculous price, £43 each no matter where you go. So I packed the sides with quality thick washers instead.

Electrics connected and grommet back in place, untested; Can one use a 13 pin to 7 pin adaptor I wonder... if needs be.

Intending on braked trailor over 750kg and/or caravan; Full unmarked driving licence for over 35 years (apparently young drivers towing being watched carefully on that).

Glad it fitted, although for what the D1 has been adapted for, mainly off roading, that little activity will be restricted to an extent now, as having a nice big plough on the back does that kind of thing

I missed this when you posted originally, sorry!

I'd have offered you this ... and told you to get 12.9 x 130 bolts ..

Very versatile, as I used to use it for Laning and off-roading ...



What it looks like underneath ...



Different tow ball to pull a water bowser with ring hitch ...



... and turned up side down to tow a Sankey Trailer. (Didn't work, but it was close, the sankey ring is very wide!)


I've still got the bar etc, I meant to transfer it to my 90 but made a whole new one instead .. I keep meaning to move the trailer socket so it's hidden and safer within the crossmember ...

Thanks for reply, Paul, and your kind offer.

Well yes, I suppose that kind of thing would be a bit more versatile if one wishes to still go off roading with TB in place; the standard one I have now would really require removal to do the same, which is not a big thing now that everything is loosened up so to speak, but in any case, the tank protector plate would need cutting still I`d imagine.

Thanks also for the post advice on the bolts... Couldn`t see how M12 100s would possibly be long enough in my setup, so for anyone else out there thinking of fitting one similarly, go for the 120s+ is my advice, and if necessary cut down to fit. I see however that your TB bolting plate to the rear cross member is quite thick, so you might well have needed 129s