nick2303

nick2303

Well-Known Member
just been havin a look at my disco for mot end of september..

to do list start with...

rear brake pands... (not too bad)

leaking swivel ball seal... (not taken one of these apart b4... will be lookin for advice soon)

rear body mounts now inside rear cross member...( got a plan in mi ed for that.. will let ya kno how i get on)

hole in my chassis and its splittin!! (not got a clue how to deal with that)

so any advice on how to fix would be much appeciated.. i've added a link to a vid on you tube of the offending chassis..


[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3N5fLxBiAwc"]chassis vid - YouTube[/nomedia]

sory bout the quality, did my best... its rear offside where the outrigger for the body mount is welded to the chassis..
 
Hit it with a big hammer until the rust falls out, then weld it up with some thick steel ,like a old central heating oil tank cut in to strips.
 
cheers...

however.....

its more the split thats runnin along underneath.. will it not continue to split..

the bit at 15 seconds in on the vid shows the underside is splitting and folding in on itself...
 
nick2303 said:
cheers...

however.....

its more the split thats runnin along underneath.. will it not continue to split..

the bit at 15 seconds in on the vid shows the underside is splitting and folding in on itself...
Click to expand...

It shouldn't continue to split but the simples way to stop a split/crack is to drill a small hole at the end of the split/crack. However if the patch is larger than the split section I can't see the split passing the line of the weld pool.
 
yeah,the chassis is welded along the centre line of the top and bottom faces as its built.Reckoned to be a stronger,better option.Apparently.
Second that on the drilling hole to stop crack thing.Used on GRP,too,amongst other things.

If you ARE drilling holes in chassis,it may be worth thinking about shooting some kind of rust stabiliser in there,and/or shutz or waxoyl.

That body crossmember and mounts job is a sod but common.I use ready made mounts from YRM or similar.The problem I generally have is that the bolts have rusted into the steel liner in the bush and so has to be cut out. I tend to use ABS nylon pipe as a bush liner if the replacemnt has steel.This system is used on a lot of lorries but on a larger scale so theres no worries about strength.
 
thanks for the replies guys...

will get it cleaned up a bit and slap a patch over it...

the rear cross member has holed were the mount sits... the box/mount is ok..

so i was gonna jack the body up and put a lump of metal on the top and front of cross member and weld into place... then weld the box/mount to the new metal...
 
shocker said:
yeah,the chassis is welded along the centre line of the top and bottom faces as its built.Reckoned to be a stronger,better option.Apparently.
Second that on the drilling hole to stop crack thing.Used on GRP,too,amongst other things.

If you ARE drilling holes in chassis,it may be worth thinking about shooting some kind of rust stabiliser in there,and/or shutz or waxoyl.

That body crossmember and mounts job is a sod but common.I use ready made mounts from YRM or similar.The problem I generally have is that the bolts have rusted into the steel liner in the bush and so has to be cut out. I tend to use ABS nylon pipe as a bush liner if the replacemnt has steel.This system is used on a lot of lorries but on a larger scale so theres no worries about strength.
Click to expand...

Agree, try hitting with a screwdriver until you find good metal then cut the crap out before welding the new plate, rusty steel is very porous and tends to hold water for longer thus rusting the rest out. The plates from YRM make life easier Discovery
 
next question...

not done anything with the drive system on a landy so been readin up on the front swivel oil seal...

do you have to attack it from the outside?

is it possible to undo the bolts i've arrowed in the pic and fit a new seal from the back? would have to remove the caliper and the steering links but could you then pull out the half shaft and replace the seal with the hub still assembled?
 

Attachments

  • swivel pic.jpg
    swivel pic.jpg
    121.6 KB · Views: 131
Unbolt the ring of bolts at the swivel and axle tube and then pull the whole lot off.
Then change large seal fit new axle gasket and bolt back on .
 
the ones between the swivel and the axle tube look like the ones i've arrowed in the pic...

am i right?
 
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