S

stubradley1

Active Member
Well after snapping my key and dismantling my ignition system I have decided to finally get around to ordering in some parts lol

I never had a fob with my 94 300tdi I have found the ecu which is amr2109 433mhz I have looked on fleabay but can not find one. Looked elsewhere for a replacement but I'm fooked if I'm spending £70 -£80
So I bought a kit off fleabay Item number: 360277906595
How the hell do I wire it in lol
It says comes with full fitting instructions but all I have is the wiring diagram for new kit which surprisingly doesnt match the landy.
How much trouble have I bought my self?
Do I need to remove original amr 2109 unit?
Or just fit around it?

Any help would be great thanks

Stuart
 
No you don't have to remove your existing alarm/cl ecu. but you kit will not interface with the amr2109.
You will or may need to replace the master central locking actuator in the drivers door it depends if the existing is compatable and you know that you kit is just central locking and not and alarm/immobiliser as the amr2109.

Basicly, it's remove the existing central locking 12v feed to the actuator and install a new one from the new ecu supplied in the kit and install the ecu of course.
 
It came with new master actuator and it is just c/locking with wires for flasher light and a siren for chirping.
Not sure how it picks up for the other door actuators??
 
That's a good deal then if the kit comes with a actuator.
You won't need to touch the other doors or their wiring as they are all common (slaves)you just have to identify the two wires feeding them at the old master and re-connect to your new master actuator they are orange and a pink according to the Haynes wiring diagram.
If the slaves do the opersite to what the master is doing when operating lock/unlocking just reverse the connection of those two wires.
 
The wiring diagram was a little conflicting with the ebay ad which said " only need to connect 6 wires".
The seller got back to me today and said
"Hi
Please install the 5 wire motor in the drivers door and wire up as per diagram.
These kits are easy to install as it does not require you to tamper with the excisting central locking system."

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e233/stubradley1/stu12.jpg
stu12.jpg

If I do what he says how will this work with the other doors???

confused.com


 
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I can just make it out,, there two wire from the master that go to the slaves, so just connect these two to the orange and pink wire that will be spare after you have removed the old actuator.
 
100% better :) so remove you existing actuator completly just leaving the wires... blue & green of the new actuator connect to the existing orange & pink wires (if thats the correct colours) that feed your 4 slave actuators u have no need to go to them.

White, black and brown from the master you may be able to use the remaining wires from the old master or just tape the ends and leave them in a coil in the door and run new wire through the rubber connecting hose... this is better.

Looks a good bit of kit very comprehensive in it's functions/facilities and comes with a well laid out drawing so very straight forward .
 
Cheers mate thats put my mind at rest ;)
Just need some daylight now never get home til 5.30 pm roll on Sunday(day off)
Looking forward to having remote locking :)
 
If you have the time take some piccies ok. Don't forget to allow some space for a alarm module to be fitted next to the CL ECU, that's something you may wish to add oneday
 
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Ok will do Im thinking of mounting the brain under the bonnet
Now you cleared up the actuator bit for me I will probably go for the siren and indicator wiring too.
Not sure on the manual switch bit and the boot release is no use.

Will get some wire and connectors sorted over next couple of days to get sorted properly.
 
I would stick it behind the drivers kick panel or tie it somewhere in the fuse box area as all the wires will finish there, other than the siren which goes under the bonnet so u only have one wire to pushed through the bulk head into the engine bay.
 
Just leave a bit of slack on the wiring so you can lift it out still connected then coil the slack up and zip tie it, the module is light weight so could be tucked-up in with other wiring.
 
Let me know how you get on as i have the same problem with my c/l, if you get it to work i will buy the same system as i'm getting p__sed off with manually opening the doors all the time.
 
busagsx1300 said:
Let me know how you get on as i have the same problem with my c/l, if you get it to work i will buy the same system as i'm getting p__sed off with manually opening the doors all the time.
Click to expand...


Well after trying all day I can honestly say don't bother!

I got the indicators flashing with arm disarm
I got the siren chirping arm/disarm
After a lot of trial and error I got the other doors working
Just the drivers door to sort, it locks when the others unlock
and unlocks when the others lock :mad:
So much for the seller saying easy to install with basic skills

I havent taken any photos yet because it's not finished will post some up if and when done.
Off to ebay now to leave some negative feedback lol
 
I explaned what to do in my previous post when that happens.........reverse the wiring.
U just bet on evens and it landed on odds :)
 
discool said:
I explaned what to do in my previous post when that happens.........reverse the wiring.
U just bet on evens and it landed on odds :)
Click to expand...
That's not quite that easy the blue and green which are supposed to connect to the existing pink and orange didn't work I ended up using brown/pink with brown off new system???
It's got me stumped I tried the way it was supposed to be and the rear doors didn't work at all.
 
You could have a problem with the master actuator, but first have you tried manually moving the actutor arm, sometimes they require a slight adjustment on their fixings, the arm doesn't travel fully so doesn't trip the switch within the actuator that switches the slaves.

Did you put your meter across the blue and green to see if there is a supply there.

Also confirm that the slaves are functioning by applying 12v to the two feed wire so they lock/unlock and reverse the connection and apply the voltage again to lock/unlock.
 
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Sounds like your nearly there, keep going and i'm sure your sort it especially with Discool on the case! Will wait till you have though untill i part with the hard earned dosh!
 
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