Hello All. I am a new member to this forum. I would like some advice on some problems that I have been having with my 2003 Freelander 3 door TD4 (hardtop). A few weeks ago, my partner noticed that the alarm had been going off and the battery had virtually discharged itself. I took the battery out and charged it up overnight. After replacing the battery and trying to recalibrate the rear window, the window went down and stayed down. On locking the driver's door with the key (the remote fob hasn't worked for ages), I taped up the rear window opening to keep the rain out) and called it a day. Next morning, as we drove the car for MOT, we noticed that the window had raised itself. Great, I thought. However, post MOT, the rear window is stuck down, the rear door is locked shut, the key now only opens the driver door (no central locking at all) and the central locking button on the console doesn't work at all any more! Checked all the fuses and they are OK. I don't really want to scrap the car as it is just a runabout (73000 miles) but the autoelectrician won't touch it. I have ordered a rear tailgate relay and a passenger and driver door actuator with solenoid but am sceptical that these replacements will work. Any ideas / advice would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks

Under the steering wheel is a the fuse box. On the back of that is a CCU - its the computer that IIRC controls all the things you are saying are going wrong. Its fiddly and tight down there, but I'd make sure all the wiring plugs are securely seated and look in good condition.

Hello GrumpyGel. Thanks for your prompt reply. If I change the CCU, will I have to change the ECU as well? I have bought a full set of locks and ECU/CCU from Ebay. I realise that I will have to, at the very least, change the CCU, transponder key and remote fob but is there an issue then with the ECU / CCU not matching? Is the CCU programming only relevant to the security of the vehicle? Sorry for asking but as the electricians won't touch the car, I am left to DIY, which on the mechanical side I am quite competent - the electronics seem more of a dark art!

To be honest mate, I read all the threads and info about the immobilisation etc - I think I know how the CCU/ECU works as a paired item and then something else comes up and I'm back to square 1 - so I don't really know.

I believe, yes you do need to replace with matching CCU/ECU - but there has also been talk of a separate imobilisation unit - I'm not sure if the ECU is paired to that, so you don't need to change it or your need to replace all 3. I've lost the will to try and understand it! As you say, a bloody dark art and I'm pretty sure it is dependent on model year.

Hopefully someone will be able to tell you!

The CCU and fob are matched to each other. The alarm ECU, engine ECU and key transponder are matched. So you can change the CCU providing you have the fobs to go with it.

I'm not 100% convinced the CCU is at fault as they are generally reliable.
The rear door window can't technically go up on its own without a switch making it go up. So you need to check the rear window switch hasn't jammed in the up position and the same for the boot handle key lock.

The door locking is CCU controled, but you still need to check the fuses as power for the locks is derived from them.

Dear All
I finally got round to changing the CCU behind the fuse box and hey presto, the rear window raised up with the button, the CL started working properly from the key in the door AND the central console. The rear door now opens as it should. The only thing that is not working is the matched fob. I have changed the battery, tried the resynchronisation procedure with the lock button and alarm deactivated, but no luck. Might try to have the fob reprogrammed as soon as I can determine if the fob is transmitting. The other issue could be the RF receiver on top of the instrument cluster - that could be broken?

Good news getting those bits sorted

Did your fobs work before? If so I doubt the RF receiver is caput - more like where ever sold you the CCU provided broken fobs or fobs from a different CCU!

I don't know how you can tell if the receiver is working or not.

The cheapest/easiest thing to do may be to take your old and new fobs along to a Landie garage who can program them into the CCU (that process would also test the fobs). I'd try an indie first before main dealer.

The garages might not want to know, or may charge like wounded bulls, so an alternative may be these people...

https://remotekey.co.uk/land-rover-freelander-key-fob/