Holidaychicken would probably help you steal it just to see his face driving off waving :D

It’s perfect example of ideal one though if money was no option.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Holidaychicken would probably help you steal it just to see his face driving off waving :D

It’s perfect example of ideal one though if money was no option.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately I have a wife that doesn't work, 2 mortgages and a Jag and a Range Rover. I have to count twice before I buy milk.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Unfortunately I have a wife that doesn't work, 2 mortgages and a Jag and a Range Rover. I have to count twice before I buy milk.
Click to expand...

I can’t even afford a mortgage never mind a wife or slave cylinder :eek:
The day she goes out for the milk she won’t come back... @Mark Piercy
A50AE9A3-40D6-497B-B9B3-1B1FCB700E92.jpeg
 
I knew I shouldn't have thrown the old one away. It was only 6 years old with a broken return spring. Just been out and emptied the bin on the off-chance. Nothing. What my neighbours thought I was doing rooting through bins with a headtorch I don't know.
 
You only need it once it’s gone can’t hold onto everything. I do appreciate it stinking of bin and that. Il sort it somehow , usually do. il have time tomorrow hopefully.

Atleast I get to learn how to bleed hydraulic clutches, the hard way as usual :)

Hopefully the squelch was air pushed in. Just the bleed nipple on slave right? And top brake res up with accumulator charged full
 
RangeRoller dt said:
You only need it once it’s gone can’t hold onto everything. I do appreciate it stinking of bin and that. Il sort it somehow , usually do. il have time tomorrow hopefully.

Atleast I get to learn how to bleed hydraulic clutches, the hard way as usual :)

Hopefully the squelch was air pushed in. Just the bleed nipple on slave right? And top brake res up with accumulator charged full
Click to expand...

You don't want the reservoir going low. I'd brim it then bleed via the nipple or Ezibleed kit works. Top up regularly. When done check level is at max with engine running.
 
Question for @Henry_b and maybe @jamesmartin plus any others that have an opinion ...

Q1. Is it my my imagination or so most of the dropped liner / head gasket issues seem to affect the 4.6 rather than the 4.0?
Q2. Also, the Thor Motronic seems to have more liner issues than the GEMS on LPG?
 
Grrrrrr said:
Question for @Henry_b and maybe @jamesmartin plus any others that have an opinion ...

Q1. Is it my my imagination or so most of the dropped liner / head gasket issues seem to affect the 4.6 rather than the 4.0?
Q2. Also, the Thor Motronic seems to have more liner issues than the GEMS on LPG?
Click to expand...

The 4.6 is the 4.0 just stroked..

Liner issues depend on the block and how it's been treated..

The Block cracks behind the liner and the block "shrinks" away from the liner, 'tis most apparent when hot when the ally contracts and pulls away.. " Tap Tap Tap " ;) Not all suffer this issue mind you!!

To negate this issue the cooling system has to be maintained to a high standard, overheating this motor isn't an option,


LPG if fitted correctly won't affect the motor, my 38a has had some form of LPG on it since 2003, starting out with a BRC system - which eventually morphed into an AC-Stag system, original engine and original gaskets.
 
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Another thing to note is the "Thor" is definitely a better set up than the "gems" the "Thor" is configured to give more torque at lower RPM, 402nm at 2600rpm and 214hp at 4.750
"Gems" 225hp at 4.750 and 375nm at 3.000rpm

the "THOR" is made to be less stressed when accelerating, even though the Thor has less HP up the top end it will feel quicker due to its better mapping and greater torque.
 
Henry_b said:
The 4.6 is the 4.0 just stroked..

Liner issues depend on the block and how it's been treated..

The Block cracks behind the liner and the block "shrinks" away from the liner, 'tis most apparent when hot when the ally contracts and pulls away.. " Tap Tap Tap " ;) Not all suffer this issue mind you!!

To negate this issue the cooling system has to be maintained to a high standard, overheating this motor isn't an option,


LPG if fitted correctly won't affect the motor, my 38a has had some form of LPG on it since 2003, starting out with a BRC system - which eventually morphed into an AC-Stag system, original engine and original gaskets.
Click to expand...

Cheers. So, block thickness no issue but heat dissipation might be in a badly maintained block.

Hmmm. On the other hand my diesel is reliable apart from the effin clutch.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Cheers. So, block thickness no issue but heat dissipation might be in a badly maintained block.

Hmmm. On the other hand my diesel is reliable apart from the effin clutch.
Click to expand...

Yes there is that Grrrr but an LPG P38 is future proofed ;)

The V8 hates Excessive heat, overheating will result in a block crack, usually into a water gallery, and a dropped liner is accompanied with water loss either up through the headgasket of down into the sump ;)

Easy to see though ;)

My 130k V8 still runs/ran like a watch ;)
 
I read an old post some time ago talking about this. May have been James Martin? saying about the distance between ports is not a lot for a similar engine or something to do with how they said ‘thatl do’ on design. Weak(er) point suffers when cooked. If it’s not overheated should be okay but can’t be ported or such because the little room there is effectively ‘too small’ to start with
 
RangeRoller dt said:
I read an old post some time ago talking about this. May have been James Martin? saying about the distance between ports is not a lot for a similar engine or something to do with how they said ‘thatl do’ on design. Weak(er) point suffers when cooked. If it’s not overheated should be okay but can’t be ported or such because the little room there is effectively ‘too small’ to start with
Click to expand...

Some blocks are Poorly cast, the water jackets can be uncentraliesed in the block wall between the cylinders, an overheat usually causes a crack in an uncentralised water way as its thin on one side and thick on the other, this causes a water consumption issue, this is often misdiagnosed as a Blown HG, when in reality the water is seeping up the liner and blowing past the HG, many notice a new HG will only last a few days or weeks before blowing again.

Water can also find it's way down into the sump, showing chocolate milk ;)

OBVS this issue is accompanied with a Tapping noise ;)

Not all suffer, BTW.

I reiterate the above, don't overheat them ;)
 
MrGorsky reckons the best blocks were used for the 4.6 and the others used in the 4.0 so actually more liners dropped in the 4.0 litre. The scientist in me wants to see the evidence though.
 
4.0 dunt really 'ave the grunt to pull the P38's lardy arse effectively, not slow but usually sound like they're "worked" in GEMS tune.

The Thor 4.0 isn't too bad much more torque and is knocking on the door of a GEMS 4.6 but most smaller engined P38's were usually lower spec, so maybe that has something to do with it..

The 4.6 has the grunt and HP the best motor for the P38 in performance terms, in Thor tune ;)

Oh the 6.3 chevy small block 630r would be the best of build/reliability and performance if you could find one ;)

The 2.5 is well, ahem...

Gutless ;)
 
Henry_b said:
4.0 dunt really 'ave the grunt to pull the P38's lardy arse effectively, not slow but usually sound like they're "worked" in GEMS tune.

The Thor 4.0 isn't too bad much more torque and is knocking on the door of a GEMS 4.6 but most smaller engined P38's were usually lower spec, so maybe that has something to do with it..

The 4.6 has the grunt and HP the best motor for the P38 in performance terms, in Thor tune ;)

Oh the 6.3 chevy small block 630r would be the best of build/reliability and performance if you could find one ;)

The 2.5 is well, ahem...

Gutless ;)
Click to expand...
4.0 is perfectly adequate if running well. Regularly towed our caravan across Europe with it and never felt short of power.
That said, the L322 with the jag engine is much better!
 
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