Hi there,

While searching the net for various answers, I've been directed to this site numerous times and decided to join!!

Sorry this is going to be a long post but I really would like to learn more about the LR Freelander (2.5l v6, auto trans, petrol, 52 plate) and how it works. I'd love to one day be able to do more than just change the widscreen wipers!! We all have to start somewhere

We're buying the vehicle from my uncle and it's been stood for about a year with occasional use throughout that time. It was previously a company car run by two females.

We've been 'running it in' for about 2 weeks now and we've noticed the following probs. Some we can live with, some we need fixing because I have fallen in love with it

So, here goes:
1. Clock light bulb needs changing. Small job but means taking dash off which is apparently a couple of hours to take off properly (without ragging it off) and the same to put back on! Hardly worth the effort to change a light bulb unless going in there for something else!!
2. A Nut missing from front drivers side wheel. Just needs to put one on from spare.
3. Child lock on left rear door faulty. Hopefully this is a recall and we get a freebie fix!! If not haven’t a clue about how to fix because there’s little info on net. Been told this could be solenoid? If that was the case apparently the door pop up thing wouldn’t work because the door solenoid’s to do with the central locking system - pop up thing works!!
4. Right rear window – up=down, down=up. Is this as simple as just changing the wires over??
5. Fuel gauge reading upside down. Believe this is a common problem with the sender after changing fuel filter/fuel pump. Can live with this, not major prob but would like fixing in future.
6. Oily leak in footwells. Noticed a musty/mechanical smell when we went for a short test drive but put it down to being stood and needing a good run. The oily substance under carpet smells the same. Need to determine whether it’s oil or coolant. Coolant known to eat through things and cause leaks.
7. Rad/water leak. Sups water for fun. Dis Aprox. 190 miles round trip. Filled when set off, empty when returned. Is this normal or is it part of a bigger prob (no.6)
8. Passenger side de-mister doesn’t work. This, with the above two strongly indicates that it’s a leak on the heater matrix (believe behind the dash?)
9. Whining noise when accelerating/decelerating, stops when stationary. Only happens about 10-15 mins into a journey but lasts until we stop! Could be gearbox fluid levels? Can you think of anything else?Does whining usually indicate GB probs in a LR?
10. Ticking from engine. Been told it's a redundant valve.Read somewhere that this can be bypassed and not only will it not make the noise but be slightly more economical - can't find the artical to tell me which valve and how to do it!!!!

So sorry there's so much there but hope somebody kind out there in landyzone can help me sort this and let my uncle know the major things needs to be done, and I'll have a go with the rest

PS I'm very muc a novice and apart from what I've managed to pick up from my dad (very little), most mechnical, technical jargon oges right over my head!! Please bear wth me with this!!

Don't like the sound of the whining gearbox, ticking noise from engine & water loss. They could be very simple things like gearbox needing a change of fluid, sticking hydraulic tappet, simple fluid leak from somewhere but more likely it could be expensive & more serious especially the troublesome V6 engine. I personally would avoid this car unless it was practically a give-away price & a bit of fun for you.

Even without these faults I wouldn't buy it because of likelihood of excessive repair/maintenance costs. Knowing it "Sups water for fun" my advice is you should walk away and leave it well alone.

I agree, unless it REALLY cheap it will end up costing loads to fix.
As already said unless it's a 'fun' car you don't need to use every day, steer clear.....

Thank you for your responses and a little deflated being told to stay away but thank you for your advice.

The car won't be used day in day out, mainly weekends or as and when we need it.

We've determined that that leak is from the header tank and found that the large, black ribbed pipe by the passenger footwell is wet. This indicates it's to do with the heater matrix as suspected but we're investigating to see if it's the actual heater matrix or a loose/damaged pipe.

We're also checking the gearbox fluid levels and seeing if that rectifies the whining.

I think if we were purchasing from a trader, I'd steer clear for fear they'd rip me off but, it's my uncle and I know he won't sell it to me with major problems. They will get fixed!!

I read somewhere about this redundant valve making a ticking noise, common when the V6 engine's been replaced, which it has, and learnt of this bypassing kit but need to trawl the net again for more info as it was last week when I found the website.

My advice is don't do it, a small project will turn into a money pit, the v6 is notorious
The fact there are multiple issues and water loss plus ticking noise etc, give it a wide berth

Hi , im going to try and be as helpful as i can, but it is kind of a long whilse since ive worked on one of these, but here goes nothing.

1 : clock bulb needs changing? The one at the top centre of the dash? Pull the surrounding black trim from the bottom i think , it should come off easily. Then there is 2 screws holding it in, one on each side , remove them , pull it forward. Bulb is twist fit from the back. Give it a shot

2 : Fit the nut , make sure the stud isnt snapped, ezmode! 120nm, 88ft/lb? i thinks!

3 : There was a recall like erm.... 2005 ish , maybe someone can google it for you, but it did involve the childlock being faulty. You can ring any LR main dealer, give them your VIN number and get them to check if there is any outstanding open recalls still on your vehicle. Else you'll be paying for it sadly. It was a manufacturing fault on the latches themselves, so its a change of unit job , easy to do, maybe 1hour max.

4 : Is the switch fitted upside down? Ya know........... just asking... Else changing the pins round sounds like an easy fix.

5 : Fuel gauge fault, ive heard of this a few times , always on KV6, but not sure what causes it exactly, as ive never done one. Its always after new pump has been fitted i think, im guessing earthing fault or something. What i do know is resistance readings ;

Sender Unit Resistance (Ohms) - Nominal Gauge Reading
503 - Empty
413 - Low fuel warning light
302 - Half full
135 - Full

So you could test it i guess?

6 : Oily leak in footwell? Erm.... no idea!

7 : Front pass footwell , remove the conveluted bit of pipe (push it together, pull it out). Get your head up the back of the dash , look upwards , if you see red staining, your heater matrix has gone. Dash out job, but they are the easiest dashes in the world to remove after Deftractors. If it is leaking, get it sorted , then retest for coolant loss, anymore loss that isnt external is probably headgasket fault (crap job), but can be blocktested.

9 : Whine on a freelander? Standard . Most likely IRD or rear diff, likely caused by VCU, but all would require testing. Also prop bearings can be an issue. Them autoboxes are pretty sound, but an oil change never did anyone any harm. BUT do it right! Dont remove the wrong bung

10 : Ticking noise from engine , from top of engine , from manifold area? Sounds like inlet manifold butterfly valves rattling to me, but you should check to verify. Pretty standard, new manifolds are expensive, or google fixes


Hope that helps a little, goodluck if you choose to buy it !

Window switches are shaped connectors as are the connectors to the motor. I wonder if there has been a repair kit used and they wound the cable the wrong way around the drum

Don't undo the nut on the rear of the auto. It's not the level plug. If you undo this you'll loose reverse gear. See this for checking the auto oil level:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/jatco-automatic-gearbox-69336-3.html

Only use the correct oil too.

The v6 engine does whine a bit. Is your whine proportional to engine revs, or vehicle speed? Does it do it only in certain gaers? More likely to be the ird (fixed ratio transfer box).

I have a v6. Nice to drive. Loads of power. Not as bad as some make out, but parts are more eggspensive. With it already being broken, I'd be tempted to not bother. Sounds like it needs a lot of tlc. Also it will cost a lot to run as it drinks fool more than a v8. Don't run with leaking coiolant, or allow to overheat - they like to overheat and it's easy to do as they run hotter than most engines. Whats the mileage? And has it bin well serviced over it's life?

Oh, and don't forget to test the vcu. video below. Loads of threads on ere about them. Also check the tyres are all the same make/model/size.

thers also the tech bulletin in the FAQ section.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/freelander-gearbox-fluid-level-105027.html

Agree with the guys unfortunately my friend.. They arent as bad as people make out, but this one sounds like its about to go over "the cliff" regarding things to fix/do on it..

Even it is for occasional use on the weekends, do you really want to be topping the water all the time??? Its only going to get worse

If you can find one in your budget, forget the KV6, and go get yourself a Td4 Auto.. Just as nice to drive, about 8 Mpg more efficient, and far far less than the Kv6 engine to go wrong.. Like hippo says, check all the usual stuff on EVERY freelander (VCU/IRD, 3 amigos, tyre sizes/types/match, service history etc) but youll find far more reliability on the Td4 or L series engines..

Peeps on here are well clued up, so listen to their advice, and you wont go far wrong... Be it your uncle selling it to you, or a car dealer....