monk · Apr 28, 2018

Hi all, fuel tank fell off last sunday ,managed to get it home, poked and prodded and alot of head shaking, entire rear quarter of chassis scrap, been busy every night and today rebuilding with 6mm plate! Rear spring mounts shot so replating whats left but both outriggers are shot, would build some but not much left to get accurate measurements, wondered if anybody knows of some decent cad drawings for parts as looks like unsure of name but rear body crossmember long bit of channel from left to right looks shot aswell, kind of looks basic and bolt on, its a 110 td5 double cab , hope somebody can help as dont want to spend 70-80 quid on something i can build better and stronger, thanks chaps

julianf · Apr 28, 2018

I thought they were about £23 each?

If youre just fabricating it, you may as well just approximate the originals and weld them into the right place as referenced by whatever is left on whilst you're fitting.

julianf · Apr 28, 2018

From my order a year or so back (for a 300tdi) -

1 x Outrigger Bulkhead RH LR513R STC8354 (STC8354) = £27.50

So, i guess youre right - a pair with the vat are probably about 70 notes.

monk · Apr 29, 2018

julianf said:
From my order a year or so back (for a 300tdi) -

1 x Outrigger Bulkhead RH LR513R STC8354 (STC8354) = £27.50

So, i guess youre right - a pair with the vat are probably about 70 notes.

Hi julian, yes first thoughts was to buy some as cheapish seen people had bought them for 20pounds each etc but think cheapest ive seen was 34 each but they seem like tgere made of very then sheet, ideally i need to fabricate them at work as my defenders in a small carport at home with not much room and ive bad knees and back lol so dont want to cut tgem off then up and down under it making some

julianf · Apr 29, 2018

Be aware that the off the shelf ones that I linked to wrap right over the top of the chassis rail. Ie to weld them back on properly you need access to 3 of the 4 faces of the chassis rail.

I'm saying this as it's really never going to be as simple as just quickly sticking them on.

This may or may not change your opinion on what is best in your situation. I had to entirely remove mine as some mug had welded up the drain port on the bottom, so the accumulated crud had just rusted through the chassis, but if your chassis is otherwise ok, it may be far far simpler to just do a proper (ie not patch over rust) repair, than to go the whole way?

monk · Apr 29, 2018

julianf said:
Be aware that the off the shelf ones that I linked to wrap right over the top of the chassis rail. Ie to weld them back on properly you need access to 3 of the 4 faces of the chassis rail.

I'm saying this as it's really never going to be as simple as just quickly sticking them on.

This may or may not change your opinion on what is best in your situation. I had to entirely remove mine as some mug had welded up the drain port on the bottom, so the accumulated crud had just rusted through the chassis, but if your chassis is otherwise ok, it may be far far simpler to just do a proper (ie not patch over rust) repair, than to go the whole way?

Ah i get you, i wondered why there was a large hole in the bottom, think i might make my own sealed one but welded right round coming off the side of the chassis, with little support brackets even though if these outriggers are made so thin and rot so easily im presuming they dont take much load bearing weight, i dont suppose you know if the crossmember further back think its a body support is an easy replacement?

julianf · Apr 29, 2018

Mine is a 300, but I'd imagine the td5 is similar?

You can't get the old unit out without cutting it up, but if you get the one from yrm, the brackets are bolt on rather than welded, so you can slide it in from the side.

I can't remember if you need to take off the triangular riveted body sections at the bottom of the c pillars. I kind of think maybe not if you have stock sills. Even if you do, it's a few rivets and slide it in.

Again my knowledge is from the 300, so YMMV.

monk · Apr 29, 2018

julianf said:
Mine is a 300, but I'd imagine the td5 is similar?

You can't get the old unit out without cutting it up, but if you get the one from yrm, the brackets are bolt on rather than welded, so you can slide it in from the side.

I can't remember if you need to take off the triangular riveted body sections at the bottom of the c pillars. I kind of think maybe not if you have stock sills. Even if you do, it's a few rivets and slide it in.

Again my knowledge is from the 300, so YMMV.

Thats great thanks, ill look them up, if its a simple bolt on job all the better

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