Druim

Druim

Well-Known Member
Going to change brake discs and pads all round in the near future and looking for advice which special tools are needed, rewind etc.
Might also change the pistons and seals in calibers for best long lasting job or is that rarely needed?

Think its original discs from new, only 58K.

Got a lot of past receipts only pads are mentioned.

This car has had all services at LR at an ridiculous price, sometimes only 2 or 3K in between. I intend to stop that neglect and do some decent service frequently:cool:
Worst receipt is from 2004 diagnosed left blend motor faulty and not covered by extended warranty £142.38 + VAT - no other "work" done:eek:
 
No special tools needed. no rewind. Handbrake is not at the wheels.

I used Mintex discs and pads when doing mine. really nice peddle feel.

I had to drill the heads off the disc retaining screws, other than that straight forward.

If you do the brake fluid also, you must follow RAVE for bleeding.

best of luck
 
Druim said:
Going to change brake discs and pads all round in the near future and looking for advice which special tools are needed, rewind etc.
Might also change the pistons and seals in calibers for best long lasting job or is that rarely needed?

Think its original discs from new, only 58K.

Got a lot of past receipts only pads are mentioned.

This car has had all services at LR at an ridiculous price, sometimes only 2 or 3K in between. I intend to stop that neglect and do some decent service frequently:cool:
Worst receipt is from 2004 diagnosed left blend motor faulty and not covered by extended warranty £142.38 + VAT - no other "work" done:eek:
Click to expand...

As in literally just read a fault off the computer...? :eek:
 
I seem to remember some star headed bolts (old man, memory hazy) but f you've got a decent bi-hex socket set you should be O.K. As there's no handbrake to worry about I remember it being easier than a lot of cars that I've done.
Rather than the pistons and seals I'd suggest replacing the slide pins and boots.
 
dogsbody said:
I seem to remember some star headed bolts (old man, memory hazy) but f you've got a decent bi-hex socket set you should be O.K. As there's no handbrake to worry about I remember it being easier than a lot of cars that I've done.
Rather than the pistons and seals I'd suggest replacing the slide pins and boots.
Click to expand...

Maybe a bit daft here but want to have all bits before the job.

So would 2 sets of these be needed? Front Caliper Sliding Pin Kit STC1920 Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.

4 or 8 of these? Bolt for Caliper slides STC1914 Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.

4 of these to be sure? Disc Retaining Screw SF108201L Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.

4 washers for banjo bolts, can't find them.

The Delphi discs & pads from Island any good? Or spend a bit more on Mintex?

Any experience with the britpart axle kit? http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/front-brake-disc-axle-britpart-isl011-p-408.html
 
Last edited:
dogsbody said:
I seem to remember some star headed bolts (old man, memory hazy) but f you've got a decent bi-hex socket set you should be O.K. As there's no handbrake to worry about I remember it being easier than a lot of cars that I've done.
Rather than the pistons and seals I'd suggest replacing the slide pins and boots.
Click to expand...

Only on the caliper mounts not the sliders a correct size g clamp is handy for retracting the pistons to allow room for the new pads and maybe a impact screwdriver for the disk retaining grub screws op
 
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If the heads are knacked on disc retaining screw a sharp hit with a sharp tipped punch normally see them off!
 
Ordered Mintex discs & pads + new disc retaining screws & some caliber bolts. Paddocks order on its way.

Sure I must have missed something, time will tell:) Got some rather large calibration hammers if needed:rolleyes:
 
odysseus said:
How big should the clamp be and how many do you need?
Click to expand...

Medium size measure the width of caliper from back of pistion pot casing to the caliper face where pistons retrack then allow some space and you will have no problems one is enough only push in gently swapping pistons little by little if you do one only quickly you could push the opposite piston out if you release the bleed nipple a little they push in even easier ;)
Re bleed will be needed tho :)
 
Grit Valve said:
Medium size measure the width of caliper from back of pistion pot casing to the caliper face where pistons retrack then allow some space and you will have no problems one is enough only push in gently swapping pistons little by little if you do one only quickly you could push the opposite piston out if you release the bleed nipple a little the push in even easier ;)
Re bleed will be needed tho :)
Click to expand...

Loosen the cap on the master cylinder, allows easier compression of the pistons, then no need to bleed the darn thing.;)
 
Going to attempt to change brake fluid by sucking it out at each wheel, I know there a procedure
but I believe you can just suck out the fluid making sure tank is well topped up with new fluid.

Already changed fluid in tank once by sucking it out and if I do that one more time and then from the wheel end it should all be renewed or thereabout.

Sure when/if I find it doesn't work that way there's Rave procedure to fall back on:)
 
Druim said:
Going to attempt to change brake fluid by sucking it out at each wheel, I know there a procedure
but I believe you can just suck out the fluid making sure tank is well topped up with new fluid.

Already changed fluid in tank once by sucking it out and if I do that one more time and then from the wheel end it should all be renewed or thereabout.

Sure when/if I find it doesn't work that way there's Rave procedure to fall back on:)
Click to expand...
no need to suck when you have a pump to do it for you read rave will ya its simple :p
 
Thor1950 said:
Loosen the cap on the master cylinder, allows easier compression of the pistons, then no need to bleed the darn thing.;)
Click to expand...
I didn't loosen the cap enough once wrecked the master cylinder seal best not to send pressure where its not needed after all the nipples will need loosening to bleed your not going to change the fliud then cheapskate.
 
Grit Valve said:
I didn't loosen the cap enough once wrecked the master cylinder seal best not to send pressure where its not needed after all the nipples will need loosening to bleed your not going to change the fliud then cheapskate.
Click to expand...

Just got done doing brakes on mine and took the cap off, piece of cake;)
 
dogsbody said:
I seem to remember some star headed bolts (old man, memory hazy) but f you've got a decent bi-hex socket set you should be O.K. As there's no handbrake to worry about I remember it being easier than a lot of cars that I've done.
Rather than the pistons and seals I'd suggest replacing the slide pins and boots.
Click to expand...
+1, & the bolts what hold the calliper carrier to the hub are going to be tight,really tight so have a extra shredded wheat for breakfast ;)
 
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