Car failed MOT on rear (to flexi hose) brake pipe.

Any idea on the best way to go about this?

Does this run all theway to the front (above fuel tank) ?

there is a connector behind the front drivers side wheel arch protector. The pipe runs behind the petrol tank, awkward but accessible and then has 90deg. bend at the rear of the drivers side air spring and a straight run along the chassis up to the connector. The pipework from the modulator to the connector will be corrosion free and should be ok.
If you are replacing it yourself, buy some new M10 fine thread tube nuts from Ebay (Short type) and a coil of 3/16" dia. copper brake tubing (Around £15). Also you will need a flaring kit and preferably a small hand bending tool which will give sharp accurate bends and reduce the possibility of kinking the pipe.

Get under the car and you should be able to follow the run of the existing pipe.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/replacing-brake-pipes-74399.html


Have a look at this.

Many thanks Irish, thats a great starting point.

So I have found the following parts on ebay, are they all correct?

3/16" X 25 FT 22G COPPER BRAKE PIPE C/W 20 METRIC NUTS on eBay (end time 31-Mar-10 16:14:37 BST)

3IN1 COPPER PIPE BENDER 6mm 8mm & 10mm BRAKE FUEL PIPE on eBay (end time 06-Apr-10 12:05:57 BST)

BRAND NEW SEALEY AK506 10 PC BRAKE PIPE FLARING KIT on eBay (end time 20-Apr-10 15:32:23 BST)

I'm not sure if the car failed on the long front to rears, and or, just the small pipe above the rear diff. I will have to call the garage. Obviously just replacing the ( offside rear (to flexi hose) brake pipe excessively corroded [3.6.B.2c] ) would be easy.

If I do go the whole hog and do all the pipes to the rear brakes while I'm on, am I correct in thinking that you can replace them in their original positions without dropping the fuel tank?

Also, is the idea, to remove the old pipes, copy them as best as possible, and then refit them? I understand that would be easy on the small pipes above the rear diff, but the long pipes will be much harder. Any advice would be great, cheers.

That's fine..you will only need the male nuts. The bender etc. is a godsend. You will not need to move the tank at all, get under the car and run your hand along the crossmember and to will feel the pipe. The copper pipe is soft enough to bend by hand and the hardest part is feeding it around behind the rear drivers side air spring and accross to the centre of the car to the hoses, it's fiddly !!
Get the old pipe out first and you can then get an idea of the shape. You can also use the original clips to support the new one. The long straight run from the back to the front is straightforward.

Don't forget to puy the tube nuts on before you flare the pipe !!!

For 3/16" pipe the protrusion of the pipe above the clamping jig needs to be slightly over 1/8". Have a play with it first to get an idea before you do the job proper.:behindsofa:

Thanks again Irish.

I've been under the car this morning and had a good look.

Once inspection and checking the MOT I think I only require the pipe goes between both the flexi pipes at the very back. It's about 8" long.

I may well buy the kit though, as I think more pipes will need doing next MOT.