Pooglet

New Member
Hello!

So my partner has a horse, which needs to be boxed to a show or two now and then. So in our wisdom we decided to buy an old (06 Plate) Land Rover Discovery 3. The bodywork is nothing but stunning. Not a mark or scratch on it. 140,000m. Gorgeous!

Before I launch with the list of problems I have discovered, I need to be clear we are both regular people, who don't have thousands to spend and so would ask anyone who is kind enough to respond to bear keeping costs managed in mind. Much as I would love to drop it at the local LR dealer I am terrified of what this will do to us. Apologies for the length of the post, I am trying to be as detailed as possible.

1) The suspension: The caution light illuminates in amber, then soon after goes red, along with a warning to not exceed 30mph. It doesn't go into 'limp' mode at any point. The odd thing here is the suspension 'works' just fine, it raises and lowers and selects each setting without complaint. It's only when you set off that the fault originates, and the suspension feels like it is losing air. I have not driven it many times, maybe 4 over a distance of 10 miles total and the fault has appeared 3 out of 4. Once it sounded with the red light, then went away about 45 seconds later. Suspension felt fine. The next time is sounded and there was a noticeable 'wash' then twitch on the roll, again I didn't try anything funny it just clearly felt odd. The third time it started fine, then did the red ping which didn't go away and when slowing down the suspension had 'bottomed' to where it was causing an alarming 'hop' at very low speeds in first. Pulled over, turned it off. Waited. Turned it on, raised and lowered the system and drove home without fault or error!? So it's definitely going wrong somewhere but it's 'working' but not 'working'. The dropping right to the bottom and hopping was very alarming.

Something to note, the front tyres have plenty tread on the outside edge, but on the inside they are worn almost to the canvas, so the alignment is horrible. There is a pronounced 'wa-waa-waa' from the tyres as soon as you get up to speed, almost like its a bearing but I can't 'feel' it on the steering. So alignment is badly off. I have ordered two new tyres which will be here on Tuesday for fitting.

I took it in to a friend who runs a small garage, though he does not have the diagnostics tool for the LR and could only read engine and something else, which gave no faults. He was unable to get any diagnostics on the suspension. He did say there is a little play in the steering and has ordered the part to fix this (inexpensive) and will fit it when he fits the tyres.

2) Brakes. The brakes are sharp and responsive. Unless you're on a downslope and brake slowly/gradually. Then they eventually 'run out' of power. Like you know when you try to brake a car with the engine off, it brakes but boy you gotta press. Like that. And its at the top of the brake travel and its 'solid' like you get if you pump the brakes. Though no pumping is done. The brakes still work, but you will be right in saying there's NO WAY I am letting my girlfriend tow a horse box like this. No chance. So for some reason the brakes work if you brake as normal, but if its a prolonged and slow pressure it stops braking under power eventually.

I don't really want to drive it again and again to try to replicate the problem, for obvious reasons, it's manageable and under control but I don't think we should be messing with the brakes while the suspension is throwing faults. Call me cautious.

3) Fuel. As you do when you get a 'new' car, I took it straight to the garage and filled it with diesel. Only to have a really big puddle at my feet when I got back after paying.

The fuel has slowly stopped to an occasional drip, maybe once every 15 seconds and it comes back again to a drip every 3-4 seconds immediately after I drive it. This is not an expert opinion but I think it's leak in either the filler pipe, or an actual hole at the top of the tank as it has virtually disappeared having now driven about 10 miles in total. But, it does drip again after driving, but nothing like when it was first filled. I actually really don't like fuel spilling, its unsafe and very environmentally damaging, and this really troubles me, even if its a drop or two.

So yes! Its a baptism of fire! I am actually excited and willing to put in the work to get it fixed, but I have no access to the diagnostics nor any idea of how to access them without going to a manufacturer garage, but I have mentioned my fear of a bill that renders the whole exercise void.

Thank you for reading, any advice or first steps or even who I can talk to to learn more? A quick google says the suspension thing is really quite common and the good news seems to be no shortage of parts and solutions from pumps to sensors to bladders in abundance. So here's hoping...
 
Weak compressor coud be your susp issue, depending on what compressor is fitted depends on what rebuild kits you can get for them, Hitachi/Dunlop/AMK.
Compressor gets weak and cannot make its target air pressure, so sulks or overheats, both thow up susp warnings.

Brakes sound like oil in servo, to check remove vac pipe bung (real toss and bloody tight) and use cable tie as a dip stick to check for presence of oil, google search for more info.

Tyres could just be tracking or susp bushes worn out, lower front arms rear bushes are the main failure points.

Fuel leak is a new one on me.

Like most modern cars if you are going to keep one you really need a code reader other wise you are just shooting in the dark, for the D3 you need Icarsoft (100 quid) which can read all the systems and I mean all the systems, or the Gap IID which does exactly the same BUT can reprogramme/code/modify etc, sadly this is 450 quid!
Both sell well 2nd hand, so no matter the initila cost you will easily get 2/3rds of your money back, so 450 is a lot of money up front but if you know you are getting low 300s back it is more palatable.
 
Or get a Foxwell pro 520 which does all you need for all LR models. £120 roughly.
Holes in fuel tanks though rare are not unknown, I've seen them on BMWs and LR Defenders. Short term, see if the leak goes away once you've used up a bit of fuel, if not then it could possibly be a leak at a connector, though I think that would cause more of a prob than just the leaking fuel. If it was a leak in the filler pipe then you should have noticed it while filling up and it ought to go away real quick once you start driving it and get a bit off the top of the tank.
 
1. Suspension pump
2. Upper and lower front control arms
3. Fuel filter incorrectly fitted or just leaking at the O rings
4. Check the brake pads first at that milage new discs and pads common it's a heavy car.

The bad news about a grand to sort out in parts alone.
 
1. Suspension pump
2. Upper and lower front control arms
3. Fuel filter incorrectly fitted or just leaking at the O rings
4. Check the brake pads first at that milage new discs and pads common it's a heavy car.

The bad news about a grand to sort out in parts alone.
Thanks for this its a great start. Would getting a code reader help me to confirm if its the pump?
I can ask my mate to replace the control arms.
When my muddy looked at it he actually mentioned specifically that it clearly has brand new disks and pads all round. Did you mean this could be because they are new or because they need replacing?
 
Weak compressor coud be your susp issue, depending on what compressor is fitted depends on what rebuild kits you can get for them, Hitachi/Dunlop/AMK.
Compressor gets weak and cannot make its target air pressure, so sulks or overheats, both thow up susp warnings.

Brakes sound like oil in servo, to check remove vac pipe bung (real toss and bloody tight) and use cable tie as a dip stick to check for presence of oil, google search for more info.

Tyres could just be tracking or susp bushes worn out, lower front arms rear bushes are the main failure points.

Fuel leak is a new one on me.

Like most modern cars if you are going to keep one you really need a code reader other wise you are just shooting in the dark, for the D3 you need Icarsoft (100 quid) which can read all the systems and I mean all the systems, or the Gap IID which does exactly the same BUT can reprogramme/code/modify etc, sadly this is 450 quid!
Both sell well 2nd hand, so no matter the initila cost you will easily get 2/3rds of your money back, so 450 is a lot of money up front but if you know you are getting low 300s back it is more palatable.
Hi! Thank you for taking the time to give a long reply, I have read it out to my gf.
Would reading the codes be likely to tell me if it is the compressor?
How do I find out what make of compressor I have or are they interchangeable?
The brakes reply I shall simply show to Paul (garage) on Tuesday I don't have the knowledge or skill to know what to do here but thank you.
As with the brakes, I shall show him this email about the suspension.
I am going to drive it a bit and see if the fuel drip improves.

Do you have any idea how I would tap into a local knowledge for support here? I contacted the chairman of my local club who pointed me at a local garage and I shall call them on Monday and see if they can assist. Its a beautiful car and a pleasure to drive, I would actually really like to keep it if I can afford to. Another post has said I should expect about a grand as a bill, which is probably a little on the painful side but one I would go with. Much more and I would need to have a think about keeping it or not. Any suggestions on what I can expect will help guide my thinking. Thank you again.
 
Hi! Thank you for taking the time to give a long reply, I have read it out to my gf.
Would reading the codes be likely to tell me if it is the compressor?
How do I find out what make of compressor I have or are they interchangeable?
The brakes reply I shall simply show to Paul (garage) on Tuesday I don't have the knowledge or skill to know what to do here but thank you.
As with the brakes, I shall show him this email about the suspension.
I am going to drive it a bit and see if the fuel drip improves.

Do you have any idea how I would tap into a local knowledge for support here? I contacted the chairman of my local club who pointed me at a local garage and I shall call them on Monday and see if they can assist. Its a beautiful car and a pleasure to drive, I would actually really like to keep it if I can afford to. Another post has said I should expect about a grand as a bill, which is probably a little on the painful side but one I would go with. Much more and I would need to have a think about keeping it or not. Any suggestions on what I can expect will help guide my thinking. Thank you again.


LZ is a real good forum, but for more in depth knowledge of the D3/4 you need to join the disco3 forum.

If you cannot diy, I would suggest this may not be the car for you, or in fact any older land rover, for example front lower arms 300 the pair, plus 30 for new bolts, then add in the labour, which if the bolts come undone is at least an hour a side, but if bolts seized you can double or treble that time, then it will need a 4 wheel alignment which is another 100, before you know it thats a grand gone on one job.
Quite a common post on the d3 forum where people have been quoted 1500 for front lower arms!

You will find most general garges run away from any land rover product especially as they get older.

Compressor could be as simple as new dessicant (this was fault on mine) cheap as chips off ebay and an hour to do, or it could be a new compressor whcih is 4/500 quid.

I have owned mine for nearly 6 years, and have spent 5.5k on it, that incls all oils/filters/tyres/brakes/mots/ body bits I knocked off/spare parts etc, all the labour was done by me.
In the same time period my wife has had nothng but 7/10 yr old Audis and the parts spend is way way less, plus very little seems to go wrong with them.

As a car I like it a lot, and without a shadow of a doubt it is the most reliable land rover I have ever owned, but they need constant tlc, nip things in the bud and the repairs are cheap and easy, let them drag on and its wallet rape time.
 
We had the same warning lights for the suspension, this may sound silly but check your brake lights are working, blown bulbs can mess with the electronics.
 
indeed , does seem there’s a few who also can’t be bothered to at least say thk u after getting helped
I suspect they cut their losses, and forget about the forum. Unfortunately an aging D3 isn't the best way to start off with an LR branded vehicle. It can be a real baptism of fire, especially for someone that has to rely on garages for repairs and maintenance. A D3 can't be run for Fiesta money, which some new owners simply don't realise.
 
I suspect they cut their losses, and forget about the forum. Unfortunately an aging D3 isn't the best way to start off with an LR branded vehicle. It can be a real baptism of fire, especially for someone that has to rely on garages for repairs and maintenance. A D3 can't be run for Fiesta money, which some new owners simply don't realise
very true with regards to having a firsta D3

how very true with regards to owning a D3 as ur first landy , seen it so many times where they bought a huge money pit and as we know they can swallow money like no tomorrow

honestly know I couldn't afford to have my D3 if I had to rely on garage costs , point in question when I had that airbag light issue , must have taken me nearly 3 x months from buying and replacing them , then sorting out all the wiring bodges , dread to think what the total bill would have been if a garage has to do it

also some new owners who can’t be bothered to at least read there owners manual, cant be bothered to buy a code reader which I think is a must on these vehicles , some then expect others to use a crystal ball when they say theres A problem without at least being bothered to read through some forums beforehand in order to give us a good chance of what’s going on

my pet hate is when they can’t say plse or thks , in those cases I simply can’t be bothered and let them get on with it

rant over , lol
 
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And mine. It seems some new members think that manners aren't important.

thought it was just me with some recent new members in not bothering to say thk u or plse

indeed it always goes along way and costs nothing to at least appreciate many forum members who share there knowledge on many different subjects and all for free
 
thought it was just me with some recent new members in not bothering to say thk u or plse

indeed it always goes along way and costs nothing to at least appreciate many forum members who share there knowledge on many different subjects and all for free
I think some new members believe that the forum is a free advice service, with people sitting at computers in some office being paid for their time to answer questions. Of course the reality is we do it for free in our own time, because it helps others with less knowledge to keep there LR going.
A thank you would be nice, but alas manners seem an alien thing to some.
 
I think some new members believe that the forum is a free advice service, with people sitting at computers in some office being paid for their time to answer questions. Of course the reality is we do it for free in our own time, because it helps others with less knowledge to keep there LR going.
A thank you would be nice, but alas manners seem an alien thing to some.

dam It , all our consultation fee cheques must have been lost in the post , ;) ;)

amen to that with regard to manners , some just make a post that reads like a statement with no real question within the post, or some list several faults like it’s a multiple choice paper

reminds me I must get an update for my crystal ball , lol

hopefully new members reading through this forum will come to realise no manners no help , as in the same token wouldn’t go up to a total stranger and start asking them questions without being polite
 

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