K

kapilamuni

Active Member
Hi,
Is there a substitute for timing chain compressor tool required for changing timing chains of BMW M51 diesel ?
I intend to change my RR's timing chains and this seems to be one of the needed tools and it comes in an expensive kit .
Thanks for any help.
 
A 25x5x300mm bar. Don't know where the notch goes though.

There may be cheap copies of the tools available on eBay. Be careful with the camshaft locking tool though as they can be too wide to hold the camshaft securely.

Having bought the full kit (about £100) thinking I would only use it the once I have been glad to have it at hand many times since.
 
kapilamuni said:
Hi,
Is there a substitute for timing chain compressor tool required for changing timing chains of BMW M51 diesel ?
I intend to change my RR's timing chains and this seems to be one of the needed tools and it comes in an expensive kit .
Thanks for any help.
Click to expand...

You need the special tools to do the job properly. Chain tensioners can be pushed in and pinned after you take front cover off before removing chains. Have engine locked at TDC number one firing before you start to strip anything.. You will need to drop sump to get cover off. You will need crank holder and locking pin along with cam positioning tool.
 
wammers said:
You need the special tools to do the job properly. Chain tensioners can be pushed in and pinned after you take front cover off before removing chains. Have engine locked at TDC number one firing before you start to strip anything.. You will need to drop sump to get cover off. You will need crank holder and locking pin along with cam positioning tool.
Click to expand...
Great. Guess that I need to remove the head too to get the cover off. Head bolts towards the bulkhead, sesms waiting to make my life miserable.
The crank holder, can I improvise this?
 
I got the full timing set off ebay. Everything is made in China so guessing it would be cheaper there?
 
kapilamuni said:
Great. Guess that I need to remove the head too to get the cover off. Head bolts towards the bulkhead, sesms waiting to make my life miserable.
The crank holder, can I improvise this?
Click to expand...

Front cover can be removed without removing head. But it is not easy to do. If you do remove head it MUST be refitted correctly. You need a torque wrench and an angle gauge to refit it. All five stages of tightening MUST be done properly. Follow instructions in RAVE. It is quite an easy job IF you know what you are doing. Personally i would service valve gear whilst head was off. Make sure all tappet barrels are replace where they came from if you do this. If at all unsure get someone to do it who knows what they are doing. You could make a crank holder i suppose but you are better off with the correct tools it makes lift fare easier. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Changing-...793563?hash=item5b13e4eb9b:g:KtsAAOSwU9xUUBF9 also http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/US-PRO-VW...844185?hash=item1eb8a51019:g:RbEAAOSw1vlUrkpE and http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-01mm-Cl...228058?hash=item1c50c5da5a:g:QUMAAOSwHjNV-kWI
 
wammers said:
........................ Personally i would service valve gear whilst head was off. Make sure all tappet barrels are replace where they came from if you do this. ............................kWI
Click to expand...
Yes , that's the best approach. But then removing the cam shaft is another serious task.
 
kapilamuni said:
Yes , that's the best approach. But then removing the cam shaft is another serious task.
Click to expand...

Removing and replacing the cam shaft is straight forwards. Just back off the nuts progressively on each cap so it comes up evenly. Same applies to refitting it. No need for special tool. Fit head with cam shaft fitted, you may have to wait a considerable time for tappets to deflate and valves to retract. Only refit head after this has happened.
 
wammers said:
Removing and replacing the cam shaft is straight forwards. Just back off the nuts progressively on each cap so it comes up evenly. Same applies to refitting it. No need for special tool. ............................

That's good news. I thought that removing it without the special tool is impossible or RAVE makes it so.

..............................Fit head with cam shaft fitted, you may have to wait a considerable time for tappets to deflate and valves to retract. Only refit head after this has happened.
Click to expand...
...........................
Pls explain.
 
kapilamuni said:
...........................
Pls explain.
Click to expand...

When the cam is removed several tappet barrels may expand. If the camshaft is refitted the expanded barrels will cause the valve on any expanded tappet to be partially open when it should not be. After refitting the cam time must be allowed to give the tappet barrels time to deflate under spring pressure. This can take some considerable time. With the head off the car this time can be shortened by rotating the camshaft using the nut in the middle of it. If you don't know what you are doing it is best to get someone who does to do the job for you.
 
Thanks, Wammers.
I am familiar with TOYOTA 4-cylinder OHC diesels though not heard of/read this type of instructions on tappet barrels.
When I read RAVE about cam shaft removal it scares me . However, my main worry is head bolts towards the bulkhead.
 
kapilamuni said:
Thanks, Wammers.
I am familiar with TOYOTA 4-cylinder OHC diesels though not heard of/read this type of instructions on tappet barrels.
When I read RAVE about cam shaft removal it scares me . However, my main worry is head bolts towards the bulkhead.
Click to expand...

You need good tools. Head bolts are just head bolts correct tools no problem. The bolt on the right hand rear of the head has to be removed with the head, and the head refitted with it in place. It can be undone, but cannot be removed or refitted whilst the head is on the engine. The retightening procedure must be followed to the letter.
 
The rear head bolt on mine came out with head in situ. I guess i might need new engine and gearbox mounts.
I was a novice when I first did mine. If you need to deviate from the instructions be prepared to learn the hard way (I wont discourage you). Also, if the timing chain tensioner guide rails look pretty worn replace those too. You'll see how thick the plastic is before the metal.
 
RubyRR said:
The rear head bolt on mine came out with head in situ. I guess i might need new engine and gearbox mounts.
I was a novice when I first did mine. If you need to deviate from the instructions be prepared to learn the hard way (I wont discourage you). Also, if the timing chain tensioner guide rails look pretty worn replace those too. You'll see how thick the plastic is before the metal.
Click to expand...

Left hand rear will come out no problem right hand one won't. If it did i would check if you have engine and gearbox mounts at all. Your engine is about 3 inches lower than it should be.:D
 
Yep. One need to follow RAVE to the dot. But sometimes it goes overboard with instructions and experts like Wammers would know simpler methods.
 
wammers said:
Left hand rear will come out no problem right hand one won't. If it did i would check if you have engine and gearbox mounts at all. Your engine is about 3 inches lower than it should be.:D
Click to expand...

Nah I'll leave it as it is. It'll be handy next time the head goes :D
 
What is this CAM timing thing? setting camshaft with special tool so that its 4.9mm lifted on RHS of the head.
Does it affect timing modulation?
 
kapilamuni said:
What is this CAM timing thing? setting camshaft with special tool so that its 4.9mm lifted on RHS of the head.
Does it affect timing modulation?
Click to expand...

Nothing to do with modulation, it sets cam timing on engines that have done more that 20,000 Km with bedded in chains. Not used when fitting new chains. Either way you WILL need cam setting tool.
 
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