reject86

reject86

Member
Hi all, my job for the upcoming weekend is to install a battery isolator switch, I was going to go for the highly recommended FIA approved isolator, I would need to run a cable from the the ignition to the isolator and would like to know where's the best place to to take the ignition from. I'm not electrically minded but can find my way around electrics. I plan on having my isolator close to the battery box, any help greatly appreciated. Jamie
 
What engine?

If it is a petrol then it is the ignition supply you want to interrupt, if it is a diesel then it is the fuel solenoid supply.
 
Thank you, just to clarify what I want to do is attach an extra wire to the solenoid and run it to the isolator leaving the original wire attached? Or cut into the original wire? Thanks again
 
Remove the feed and connect it to a wire which runs through the isolator, then connect the return from the isolator to the solenoid.

The other pair of contacts on the switch are for the alternator supply & load resistor, I take it you are happy connecting these (leave off and you risk damaging the alternator if you use the switch to kill the engine)?
 
I thought I was but this may be slightly out of my comfort zone, a trip to an auto electrician may be in order but thanks for your help
 
I have been on to 2 local auto electricians both of which have no idea what I'm talking about one of which tried to sell me a Thatcham 1 alarm and immobiliser, looks like it is a job for me after all, so if you would be so kind as to describe where the alternator supply and load resister should be you would be helping me out a great deal. I'm guessing I have to source a load resistor? Thanks again.
The following image is what I'm going off if that helps.
Hoofdstroomschakelaar3p.jpg
 
Last edited:
Try looking at a caravan isolator, similar thingy, doing similar things ...:cool: ...cheaper too
 
I think I'm slowly getting this please correct me if not. Can I cut into existing + wire currently connected to battery for the alternator supply or should I be wiring a new wire from switch to alternator supply?
 
Just come off the little spade on the bottom of the fuel pump and put a switch in line, personally I wouldn't bother as it's easily bypassed with a 12V feed from anywhere to the spade connector.
 
If you want to block the ignition from working you could put a switch in on the starter relay earth that earth's at the bulkhead I would imagine. That could be a small two pin switch hidden, a switch that breaks the 12V to the fuel pump solenoid would also be a small switch that could be hidden. A screw driver or piece of metal across the positives to the spade on the starter would still start your truck tho (I think).... If the fuel solenoid had a hidden switch it would soon run out of fuel and cut out, however it's like any deterrent it may stop an opportunist thief but I belive that if they want it they will take it. A full disklock is the best way to go, then other routes like a pedal box and things like this may help.

On mine I have a detachable steering wheel (they can still drive off with it using a set of mole grips) and I also have a tracker hidden away.
 
IamRobbie said:
Just come off the little spade on the bottom of the fuel pump and put a switch in line, personally I wouldn't bother as it's easily bypassed with a 12V feed from anywhere to the spade connector.
Click to expand...

You can even get to the inj pump cut off solenoid from under the car.

To the op whats wrong with just an everyday battery cut off switch, ie no extra wires needed?
 
lynall said:
You can even get to the inj pump cut off solenoid from under the car.

To the op whats wrong with just an everyday battery cut off switch, ie no extra wires needed?
Click to expand...
To be honest I think I'm just looking into it far to much, I think a standard isolator will do just fine. Your right there if they want it they will have it away anyway they can.
 
IamRobbie said:
If you want to block the ignition from working you could put a switch in on the starter relay earth that earth's at the bulkhead I would imagine. That could be a small two pin switch hidden, a switch that breaks the 12V to the fuel pump solenoid would also be a small switch that could be hidden. A screw driver or piece of metal across the positives to the spade on the starter would still start your truck tho (I think).... If the fuel solenoid had a hidden switch it would soon run out of fuel and cut out, however it's like any deterrent it may stop an opportunist thief but I belive that if they want it they will take it. A full disklock is the best way to go, then other routes like a pedal box and things like this may help.

On mine I have a detachable steering wheel (they can still drive off with it using a set of mole grips) and I also have a tracker hidden away.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the suggestions I will keep them in mind for this weekend I'm sure I can come up with a something.
 
You don't need an isolator unless going between something with major load on it like the positive power. A normal 15amp on off switch will work somewhere and not expected as much as a proper isolator switch sat there
 
I fail to see how this is causing so much of a problem.
The isolator comes with the most simple of wiring instructions, all you have to do is ignore any reference to the ignition coil and instead substitute with the fuel solenoid. See a download of the instructions below.

"To the op whats wrong with just an everyday battery cut off switch, ie no extra wires needed?"
An everyday battery switch is just that, cuts the battery but in an emergency will have no effect on the engine and if you are fitting a switch, why not spend an additional 20-minutes and fit one that does everything?
As a security measure they have a use especially if the switch is located somewhere not in immediate line of sight. Of course they can be bypassed (like anything) but it is getting back to the layered approach to security again.
I also have a (fused) bypass supply that supports things like the alarm, tracker, interior lights etc but will blow as soon as anything more significant is turned on (i.e. if the ignition switch were operated).

On a final note, personally I think they are great and have fitted one to all of my LR's for the past 30-years or so, competition vehicles and road-going ones.


 
reject86 said:
Hi all, my job for the upcoming weekend is to install a battery isolator switch, I was going to go for the highly recommended FIA approved isolator, I would need to run a cable from the the ignition to the isolator and would like to know where's the best place to to take the ignition from. I'm not electrically minded but can find my way around electrics. I plan on having my isolator close to the battery box, any help greatly appreciated. Jamie
Click to expand...
What do you want to install, you say a battery isolator switch, then everyone has then advised you how to install an ignition kill switch.

What do you want to achieve? Security benefit, or do you really mean a ignition isolator?

A battery isolator is just that... take you 15 minutes to install, 20 if you want to do a really good job.
 
discomania said:
What do you want to install, you say a battery isolator switch, then everyone has then advised you how to install an ignition kill switch.

What do you want to achieve? Security benefit, or do you really mean a ignition isolator?

A battery isolator is just that... take you 15 minutes to install, 20 if you want to do a really good job.
Click to expand...

He stated the "battery isolator switch" and then "FIA approved isolator" with ignition connection, as far as I am concerned that is what is generally referred to as the FIA battery isolator with the two twin aux connectors.
 
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