thebiglad · Apr 6, 2008

Hi all, I have a '98 Disco Tdi 300 auto and want to do a gearbox oil change. Last time was nearly 2 yrs ago and 15,000mls. The gear change quality has gone off slightly so I thought I would try an oil change.

What I need to know is, what's the difference between D11 and D111? My handbook says D11 but that was printed in '97.

Is D111 just an updated version or is it something completely different that I shouldn't use.

D111 is readily available but can't find any D11.

All comments welcomed,
Cheers
Dave

markw · Apr 7, 2008

hi mate,

just been reading something you may be interested in!, it was on a different site about auto gear box oil

it was on difflock about " difflock evolution 1 fully synthetic gear oil "
the down side is the price £12.99 per ltr, but is supposed to last 3-4 times longer.

reading different things on there the d11 oil and d111 is the same just new improved.

however personally i'm not sure, i was reading these trying go gather as much info as i can about doing mine.

you may find interesting, however i think the price will be a factor, especally as i've been reading you need to flush the gear box as you only change about 50% in changing oil or changing oil & filter.

cheers mark

thebiglad · Apr 7, 2008

markw said:
hi mate,

just been reading something you may be interested in!, it was on a different site about auto gear box oil

it was on difflock about " difflock evolution 1 fully synthetic gear oil "
the down side is the price £12.99 per ltr, but is supposed to last 3-4 times longer.

reading different things on there the d11 oil and d111 is the same just new improved.

however personally i'm not sure, i was reading these trying go gather as much info as i can about doing mine.

you may find interesting, however i think the price will be a factor, especally as i've been reading you need to flush the gear box as you only change about 50% in changing oil or changing oil & filter.

cheers mark

Thanks very much for your comments Mark.

My plan is to JUST change the oil. I know there is a mesh screen filter in there as well, but to be honest I can change the oil without taking the sump off so that's route I'm taking (have to do the work outdoors - no garage, no lifts etc) but I am interested in the quantity of oil that comes out.

The total capacity appears to be 9 ltrs, whereas I been told that only about 5ltrs comes out, the rest stays in the torque converter.

The suggestion was, drop out 5, put 5 new oil in, run for 500 mls and then drop the oil and refill again.

Well, a; that's 2 lots of oil to buy & b. what are you left with after doing this, because it can't be guarranteed that all the old stuff is out, if you follow. So you would end up with a mix of old and new - not ideal I'd have thought?

Anyway, it's gonna get done this week, with Dexron3 and that'll be just fine - ????

markw · Apr 7, 2008

dave,

i'll be interested to hear how you get on as i have that on my list of things
to do!

my auto gear change seens hessitant first thing and not as smooth as it was when i first bought it 6 months ago.

as i've said before i was looking to take to a garage and let them do it but
can't help wanting to do it my self at the same time. since injury i'm sure i will have to let them do some jobs but wi just have to see.

hoping to start boot floor and other bits on the backend this week, just got to see whats left once the floors out. had various methods of how to take out and renew, but got to see whats left first.

getting back to the auto box, could you explain how to check the fluid level in the autobox as i've been told different ways and get differing levels as you can imagine!

mark

thebiglad · Apr 7, 2008

markw said:
dave,

i'll be interested to hear how you get on as i have that on my list of things
to do!

my auto gear change seens hessitant first thing and not as smooth as it was when i first bought it 6 months ago.

as i've said before i was looking to take to a garage and let them do it but
can't help wanting to do it my self at the same time. since injury i'm sure i will have to let them do some jobs but wi just have to see.

hoping to start boot floor and other bits on the backend this week, just got to see whats left once the floors out. had various methods of how to take out and renew, but got to see whats left first.

getting back to the auto box, could you explain how to check the fluid level in the autobox as i've been told different ways and get differing levels as you can imagine!

mark

Hi Mark, nice to hear from you again, hope all is well.

The reason why I'm looking at doing the oil in the auto box is because I've gone a bit barmy on oil changes over the last few days on both Disco's and this would be the last bit to do.

On both cars I've done, transfer boxes, front & rear axles and on the wife's car, the manual gearbox. So as you see, there's only my auto-box to do.

I'm doing this because time-wise it's about due but also the change quality 1st to 2nd is a little aggressive when warm. Fine when cold. So i thought while I'm in an oil-changing mood, do the auto-box.

Re change quality first thing, all the auto's I've ever had have a tendancy to "hang" in 1st for longer than normal, for the first mile or two. Seems normal to me.

This is the way I check the auto-box fluid:
1. Commence with cold engine, start the motor with 'box in Park, foot on brakes put into 1st - leave for a second or two 'til it takes up drive, then put it into reverse and wait the same, then back into park.

2.Take the dipstick out, clean and replace then check the level - it should be between the two marks. If it needs topping up, bear in mind that it only takes iirm correctly 1/4ltr between the marks !!

3. Never, ever overfill !!!! Not good for the box at all, apparently.

Good luck on the boot floor and all the rest - any more questions just ask.

Cheers
Dave

markw · Apr 12, 2008

hi ya dave,

changed my fuel filer & lift pump today.

after changing a number of things since owning her in the last 6 months trying to solve starting problem.

i think the lift pump may have been the fault in the end.

filled the new filter up with fuel first then put it on, changed the lift pump inc all fittings and olives. opened the bleed screw and to my amazement after 6 pumps on the manual lever it pumped out fuel!!!!
as you know tried a number of times in the past with no result.

then srarted after the second turn......... i was amazed.... never started this esay before. ( the best of it was, it had been standing for two days as well )

hoping this may be the problem in the end..... changed every thing else or checked it....!

getting back to your oil changes, how you getting on?

looking to do the diff oils after floor goes back in.
do you take out the drain plug or use your new pump though filler plug?
whats the best oil to fill back up with?

will be asking you later about the transfer box oil changong etc, but few jobs first.

cheers mark

thebiglad · Apr 12, 2008

markw said:
hi ya dave,

changed my fuel filer & lift pump today.

after changing a number of things since owning her in the last 6 months trying to solve starting problem.

i think the lift pump may have been the fault in the end.

filled the new filter up with fuel first then put it on, changed the lift pump inc all fittings and olives. opened the bleed screw and to my amazement after 6 pumps on the manual lever it pumped out fuel!!!!
as you know tried a number of times in the past with no result.

then srarted after the second turn......... i was amazed.... never started this esay before. ( the best of it was, it had been standing for two days as well )

hoping this may be the problem in the end..... changed every thing else or checked it....!

getting back to your oil changes, how you getting on?

looking to do the diff oils after floor goes back in.
do you take out the drain plug or use your new pump though filler plug?
whats the best oil to fill back up with?

will be asking you later about the transfer box oil changong etc, but few jobs first.

cheers mark

Hi Mark, that's brilliant news about your car - bet you're chuffed to bits aren't you?

Yes, re oils and oil changes been doing quite a few recently. First I did Wendy's car, gearbox, tranny box and both axles.

What I found was that a, they'd not been done in ages, the stuff that came out was truly disgusting - black and at the same time brown, yuk; b, put in Diffloock.com oils and her car now runs silently - well ish

Big difference no axle whine, gear and tranny changes smoother and lighter.

Not cheap but you get extended service intervals eg. manual gearbox on a Disco should be every 12 months!!! With this stuff the supplier reckons 24-36 months depending on heavy the workload. Axles & Tranny normally every 2 yrs - now 4-6 yrs!

I used Evo1 for the gearbox and Evo2 for axles & tranny.

Do you know the quantities required for the axles? 1.8ltrs each one. Little tip: make sure that you can undo the filler plug BEFORE opening the emptying plug, otherwise it all goes tits up

I emptied the old stuff out of the bottom plug and then pumped in the new stuff via the filler plug.

Hope that helps.

Did the auto box on mine today - early days yet but it feels the changes are a bit smoother.

markw · Apr 12, 2008

hi dave

yes well chuffed, took a bit longer than i thought but that was probably down to me and my restricted movement.

true test is in the morning when i go to start it, hopfully better or if really lucky even sorted!!

did you put the difflock stuff in your gear box in the end?
as you were going to put the normal stuff in last time you mentioned it.

sounds like its well worth changing the oil in the diffs though..!

thats one of the jobs after the floor goes back in.
after the rear shocks changed.....

any tips on changing those?, look treable especially the bottom nuts..!

mark

thebiglad · Apr 13, 2008

markw said:
hi dave

yes well chuffed, took a bit longer than i thought but that was probably down to me and my restricted movement.

true test is in the morning when i go to start it, hopfully better or if really lucky even sorted!!

did you put the difflock stuff in your gear box in the end?
as you were going to put the normal stuff in last time you mentioned it.

sounds like its well worth changing the oil in the diffs though..!

thats one of the jobs after the floor goes back in.
after the rear shocks changed.....

any tips on changing those?, look treable especially the bottom nuts..!

mark

Hi Mark , good lad, keep at it and you'll have 'er singing like a bird.

With regard to my two, I used Difflock stuff for Wendy's Tdi 200 and locally bought stuff for my Tdi 300.

There is no doubt in my mind that the Difflock stuff is better, but getting it here to France is expensive and to get the full benefit of the outlay I need to accept the longer service intervals. That's fine on Wendy's but for mine I will always be tinkering, changing and cleaning, so I've gone for good but cheaper stuff, bought locally.

Good luck
Dave

markw · Apr 21, 2008

hi dave,

had disasterous weekend, not able to do anything!!!

main reason was weather, kept raining and wanted to finish welding rear patches.

tried in between weather to get off those bloody rear shocks but failed every time.

gave up in the end in frustration..........

better day today........

done all welding on the rear end.......... halay luya....

bought nut splitter gat the f.....g nuts off the top of the shockers

bought cutting disc and cut the bottoms off...

wire brushed one side painted with hammer right and fitted new shocker
(bought new nuts 28p for the 2, cot more in petrol in the wifes rover to fetch em)

hoping to do the other one wednesday as going out tomorrow, as my youngest sons birthday.

hoping to get more painting done on the back end and underneath.

finally got the remainder of my oils in preperation for oil changes today,
so another step closer.

whilst i had the wheel off the one side i noticed the rear brake pads were low too......... another job on the list..........seems no end at the mo,
but all fired up and rearing to go... hope the weather holds up.

also the anti rattle fittings were missing and pins looked knackered so ordered new ones, hoping to get new pads in the next few days (front and rear)
do a propper job now i've started.

hoping to have the floor back in by the week end after all jobs under the rear end are finally finished,

then will plate drivers sill, passenger one is ok had a good look even took the plastic trim piece off.

them will paint the middle section after oil change,

only leaving the front end to check and change all oils.

and mot is just over 3 weeks away.........

have you been tinkering over the weekend?

or has your weather been as bad?

mark

thebiglad · Apr 21, 2008

markw said:
hi dave,

had disasterous weekend, not able to do anything!!!

main reason was weather, kept raining and wanted to finish welding rear patches.

tried in between weather to get off those bloody rear shocks but failed every time.

gave up in the end in frustration..........

better day today........

done all welding on the rear end.......... halay luya....

bought nut splitter gat the f.....g nuts off the top of the shockers

bought cutting disc and cut the bottoms off...

wire brushed one side painted with hammer right and fitted new shocker
(bought new nuts 28p for the 2, cot more in petrol in the wifes rover to fetch em)

hoping to do the other one wednesday as going out tomorrow, as my youngest sons birthday.

hoping to get more painting done on the back end and underneath.

finally got the remainder of my oils in preperation for oil changes today,
so another step closer.

whilst i had the wheel off the one side i noticed the rear brake pads were low too......... another job on the list..........seems no end at the mo,
but all fired up and rearing to go... hope the weather holds up.

also the anti rattle fittings were missing and pins looked knackered so ordered new ones, hoping to get new pads in the next few days (front and rear)
do a propper job now i've started.

hoping to have the floor back in by the week end after all jobs under the rear end are finally finished,

then will plate drivers sill, passenger one is ok had a good look even took the plastic trim piece off.

them will paint the middle section after oil change,

only leaving the front end to check and change all oils.

and mot is just over 3 weeks away.........

have you been tinkering over the weekend?

or has your weather been as bad?

mark

Hi Mark, you're like a whirling Durvish mate, well done. "I don't know if I'll be able to manage anything on the car..........................bollox you're doing just great !!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm getting mine Tdi 300 ready for it's Contrôle Technique, mot to you & me, before putting my bus on French plates.

It's basically well-fettled, just a couple of little things here & there like the front nearside wheel bearing - a tiny amount of play, so small that I couldn't even feel it with the wheel off, even off the ground so I've left it - but while I was there I noticed something!!!

The front brake pads were absolutely SHOT !!! A. I felt ashamed & B. had some in stock so half an hour later, after attempting to clean the ****ty pistons and pressing them back I have shiny new pads - and she does actually brake better

And so it goes, just in the process of ordering a new shed, to keep the weather off all our gear and the horse. Metal shed, 12 meters by 5.3 meters by 2.7 meters high for 3500 delivered to my site for me to erect.

64 square meters of covered workspace - I can't wait !!

If you get a chance, send me some pics of you and yours & I will do the same.

Cheers for now and good luck

Dave

markw · Apr 21, 2008

dave,

if thats your shed i'd hate to think what your garage would be like...... ha ha

will take some picture, but it figuring how to get them on here.

it seems to be the week for brake pads ay!

just been reading a new one on here tonight about being weary of doing his disco.....
just been telling him how i was and what ive done with your help and encoragement.

will keep you upadted of how i'm getting on

mark

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