Grimmer

Grimmer

THE Winner
So I am sorting my motor out, finished the radius arms and moved onto the A-frame ball joint, but mine doesn't look anything like Busters in his guide, and there is no mention of this extra big bit in the Haynes manual:confused::confused: There is a large cylinder type thing, with what looks like a reservoir of some sort at the top end going from the chassis between the upper arms, and connected to the ball joint mount plate at the front end:confused::confused: Its a 300tdi 110, 1998, anyone got any ideas before I break something:confused:
20130822_145452_zps27571238.jpg
[/IMG]
20130822_145505_zps67e48bf7.jpg
[/IMG]
20130822_150157_zps8c572285.jpg
[/IMG]
 
if so, its obsolete, so if its broke, HD springs are the replacement, or if youve got hd springs anyway, remove it and bin it...
 
IIRC it wasnt used for long (cos it was sh1t) possibly why its not in the manwell it was there to accompany softer springs, and would keep the ride level.
If you have HD springs you can remove it and bin it, as for replacing the joing with it. no idea, sorry :)

personally, I'd take it off, do the job then replace.

dont puncture the canister though, its filled with compressed nitrogen...
 
timtheenchanteruk said:
IIRC it wasnt used for long (cos it was sh1t) possibly why its not in the manwell it was there to accompany softer springs, and would keep the ride level.
If you have HD springs you can remove it and bin it, as for replacing the joing with it. no idea, sorry :)

personally, I'd take it off, do the job then replace.

dont puncture the canister though, its filled with compressed nitrogen...
Click to expand...

Cheers pal, your a star;););) At least I know what Im looking at now:rolleyes::rolleyes: Just got to undo all the bloody bolts on everything else now, they're all solid:mad::mad::mad::mad:
 
Indeed that is the self-levelling unit. there is a procedure in the workshop manual for testing it. It says something like measure the clearance between the top of the axle and the bump stops then load the back up with 450kg, check clearance again with somebody in drivers seat then go for a drive (3 miles) then check clearance again. If clearance has changed by less than 20mm replace levelling unit.

Manual also says that to change ball joints (on levelling unit) you have to remove the levelling unit. I helped a mate do that once a few years ago, it was a right PITA. The manual is a bit unclear about the A frame ball joint but because the bottom of the fulcrum is attached to the leveller with another ball joint I can only suggest "proceed with caution" HTH
 
Spunka said:
mine still has one of those levelers on
when i get to that end of me landy im gunna bin it
Click to expand...

Well the springs do look a bit tired now I think about it, and it is something I was going to get round to doing (Replacing the springs), so the general consensus is to get rid of the self levelling thing.
Soooooo, is it just a case of unbolting it:confused::confused:, it is attached to the ball joint mounting plate, so does this mean I need a new one of them, or does it not matter:confused::confused:
I love a nice straightforward job:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
Grimmer said:
So I am sorting my motor out, finished the radius arms and moved onto the A-frame ball joint, but mine doesn't look anything like Busters in his guide, and there is no mention of this extra big bit in the Haynes manual:confused::confused: There is a large cylinder type thing, with what looks like a reservoir of some sort at the top end going from the chassis between the upper arms, and connected to the ball joint mount plate at the front end:confused::confused: Its a 300tdi 110, 1998, anyone got any ideas before I break something:confused:
20130822_145452_zps27571238.jpg
[/IMG]

i've seen a few of these removed by just cutting through lower mount with
grinder. cut through casting at thinnest point, horizontal cut through centre
of picture. undo 4 top mounting bolts first to releive pressure.
Click to expand...
 
3.5 efi said:
i've seen a few of these removed by just cutting through lower mount with
grinder. cut through casting at thinnest point, horizontal cut through centre
of picture. undo 4 top mounting bolts first to releive pressure.
Click to expand...

Right I'm with you, and then I'm assuming the mounting plate is exactly the same as one without the bracket;);)
 
3.5 efi said:
you have it. ;)
Click to expand...

Been doing some reading around this, and to be honest my head is fookin banging:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:
But, if I get rid of the self levelling whatsit in the morning, and then change the ball joint and bushes, will it be alright to drive on the standard springs without the self levelling unit:confused:. From what I am reading some people say HD springs, some people say standard:confused::confused::confused:.
I'm very tired, and very confused:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
3.5 efi said:
no expert but believe that's what they did on later models. :)
Click to expand...

Right, that'll do then, unless someone turns up with some conflicting information before morning:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
My plan at the minute is just to get rid of the self levelling, then just leave everything else alone for the moment till I decide what to do, the springs etc are a bit tired anyway so I will be changing them in due course. The only decision is brand and HD or standard, at standard height, got no desire to start any of that lifting business:rolleyes:
 
Grimmer said:
Right, that'll do then, unless someone turns up with some conflicting information before morning:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
My plan at the minute is just to get rid of the self levelling, then just leave everything else alone for the moment till I decide what to do, the springs etc are a bit tired anyway so I will be changing them in due course. The only decision is brand and HD or standard, at standard height, got no desire to start any of that lifting business:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

grimms,put HD springs on bud,it wont lift the tratter but it will stiffen the suspension to compensate for removing the s/leveling item.do not stay with standard springs.;)
 
Im not a big cheese on them either
The way i see it is unless there is weight in the back of your motor the leveler is not touching owt so wont need to pump up
If your springs are fubar and the leveler is touching all the time then its probably pumped and helping your spring
 
gemsdad said:
grimms,put HD springs on bud,it wont lift the tratter but it will stiffen the suspension to compensate for removing the s/leveling item.do not stay with standard springs.;)
Click to expand...

That's what I'll do I think, I'll get it through the mot, and then maybe next month look at doing the springs and shocks all round;););)
I keep reading of people speaking highly of S**tpart springs:wtf::wtf::eek::eek::eek:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

dieseldog69
Busters Bus section needs a bit of help.
2
Replies
28
Views
4K
The Mad Hat Man
The Mad Hat Man
Saint.V8
L322 2002-2005 Heater Matrix Replacement
Replies
14
Views
15K
yfo866
yfo866
top drive
Fitting gwyn lewis challenge kit and +5 shocks.
Replies
19
Views
5K
warrior
warrior
G
Does this seem reasonable
2 3 4
Replies
65
Views
5K
Paul D
Paul D
jbenekeorr
My Discovery 1 Progress
2
Replies
34
Views
9K
John Saunders
John Saunders