longdog
Active Member
Has the head unit got a source button to toggle between radio, cd, aux. If no aux shows, go into the menu and see if can can find an aux input setting and turn it on.
Usually it's the blue mini iso connector that is used,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLAUPUNKT...hash=item53f2662fde:m:mHrxASvRu9_lkWcAON5Ay_A
Usually it's the blue mini iso connector that is used,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLAUPUNKT...hash=item53f2662fde:m:mHrxASvRu9_lkWcAON5Ay_A
longdog
Active Member
Just found this, not as simple as I thought,
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/communica...nput-single-cd-player-visteon-6500-model.html
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/communica...nput-single-cd-player-visteon-6500-model.html
brian47
Well-Known Member
I'm pretty sure that there are no unused pins in the top ISO plug. From what I have been able to find it's for connection to an external CD player unit such as a Becker device.
Here's a pin assignment diagram:
But it might be worth trying some of the pins, For instance pins 21 and 26 with the ground on pin 20. You'll probably have to select CD on the front panel for it to work, but be prepared to be disappointed, it looks like there might be more than just connections going on.
Here's a pin assignment diagram:
But it might be worth trying some of the pins, For instance pins 21 and 26 with the ground on pin 20. You'll probably have to select CD on the front panel for it to work, but be prepared to be disappointed, it looks like there might be more than just connections going on.
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brian47
Well-Known Member
If you're looking to inject audio from an external device such as a .mp3 player or a phone then there are some places on t'interweb who can install a 3.5mm socket on the front for about 75 quid.
The method I used was to fit an FM modulator, not to be confused with those cheapy little FM transmitters which are prone to all sorts of interference and crap, I tried a number of them and failed on all counts.
The FM modulator is inserted into the VHF aerial cable and has two (right and left) RCA sockets so that the appropriate lead can be fitted to connect to the external device. The power for it I picked up on the "system out" wire which is normally used to power things like the automatic pop-up aerial.
Once it's all connected and tuned, the signal is rock solid with no interference and the correct levels. It can be tucked away up under the dash out of the way.
This is the device I used:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Veba-Wired-FM-Modulator-transmitter-AVFM-MOD01-Aux-iPod-iPhone-MP3-In-Car-Music/351238913536?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3Dd68c2a5102e34ce3af2ee650eb1a6196%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D221542504262&clk_rvr_id=985642361323&rmvSB=true
The method I used was to fit an FM modulator, not to be confused with those cheapy little FM transmitters which are prone to all sorts of interference and crap, I tried a number of them and failed on all counts.
The FM modulator is inserted into the VHF aerial cable and has two (right and left) RCA sockets so that the appropriate lead can be fitted to connect to the external device. The power for it I picked up on the "system out" wire which is normally used to power things like the automatic pop-up aerial.
Once it's all connected and tuned, the signal is rock solid with no interference and the correct levels. It can be tucked away up under the dash out of the way.
This is the device I used:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Veba-Wired-FM-Modulator-transmitter-AVFM-MOD01-Aux-iPod-iPhone-MP3-In-Car-Music/351238913536?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3Dd68c2a5102e34ce3af2ee650eb1a6196%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D221542504262&clk_rvr_id=985642361323&rmvSB=true
retneprac
Well-Known Member
So fitted the unit with a great sound from my iPhone.
I piggybacked the power and earth for the unit from the cig lighter which is now a twin USB port.
Couple of problems have arose. do get some interference when I plug the iPhone in the charger.
And reception on the all the other radio channels is **** poor.
So what do I need to check, connections on the ariel side and find a better earth?
And what tool do I need to remove the radio as the dash is now back in and the fing wipers work!
I piggybacked the power and earth for the unit from the cig lighter which is now a twin USB port.
Couple of problems have arose. do get some interference when I plug the iPhone in the charger.
And reception on the all the other radio channels is **** poor.
So what do I need to check, connections on the ariel side and find a better earth?
And what tool do I need to remove the radio as the dash is now back in and the fing wipers work!
brian47
Well-Known Member
I don't know about what removal key you would need, sorry, but you could try this type.
As far as your poor FM reception goes, try switching the modulator unit off when you tune to other stations. But there, you don't need adverts or some inane disc jockey wittering on and on in between tracks now, you've got all your own favourites.
The plug into the cig lighter socket USB things can cause quite a few problems with noise and interference, it's down to the cheap design and construction. The only option if you want to use the infernal things is to get a handful of the things and try each one. I've used one of those devices with a couple of of lighter sockets and some USB sockets on them. They tend to be slightly better quality.
As far as your poor FM reception goes, try switching the modulator unit off when you tune to other stations. But there, you don't need adverts or some inane disc jockey wittering on and on in between tracks now, you've got all your own favourites.
The plug into the cig lighter socket USB things can cause quite a few problems with noise and interference, it's down to the cheap design and construction. The only option if you want to use the infernal things is to get a handful of the things and try each one. I've used one of those devices with a couple of of lighter sockets and some USB sockets on them. They tend to be slightly better quality.
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FlyingPete
Well-Known Member
One way I've used on my old car is a 'CD changer emulator' from Connects2.
What this does is connect to the CD changer connection and provides all the expected signals to the head unit, fooling it into thinking that a CD changer is connected. It then gives you a pair of phono sockets into which you can connect your aux socket. I drilled a small hole in a convenient trim panel to install a flush-mounted socket, and wired it into the phono plugs.
You end up with a direct wired connection and thus better audio quality than an FM modulator. All you do is select CD changer on the head unit, and it will come up as CD1, track 1 on the display while playing your aux input.
What this does is connect to the CD changer connection and provides all the expected signals to the head unit, fooling it into thinking that a CD changer is connected. It then gives you a pair of phono sockets into which you can connect your aux socket. I drilled a small hole in a convenient trim panel to install a flush-mounted socket, and wired it into the phono plugs.
You end up with a direct wired connection and thus better audio quality than an FM modulator. All you do is select CD changer on the head unit, and it will come up as CD1, track 1 on the display while playing your aux input.
brian47
Well-Known Member
Thanks Pete
That's probably a reasonable system too, but sacrificing the CD player could be a down side.
As far as "audio quality" is concerned, you're probably starting with a .mp3 music track, which by its very nature is distorted, and reproducing the sounds in a vehicle; a steel box which vibrates and sometimes rattles; a finely tuned audio theatre it isn't. And no amount of oxygen free cabling, 1 farad capacitors, fancy loudspeakers and super-bass amplifier systems are going to be able to repair that.
As I've already said in an earlier post, the device I've recommended is NOT an FM transmitter which is prone to all sorts of interference, but a device which actually connects into the aerial line. The audio reproduction while using the MkI ear'ole is no different to any other FM radio station output. I've no doubt that if you turned up with an audio spectrum analyser you could find a difference in reproduction.
That's probably a reasonable system too, but sacrificing the CD player could be a down side.
As far as "audio quality" is concerned, you're probably starting with a .mp3 music track, which by its very nature is distorted, and reproducing the sounds in a vehicle; a steel box which vibrates and sometimes rattles; a finely tuned audio theatre it isn't. And no amount of oxygen free cabling, 1 farad capacitors, fancy loudspeakers and super-bass amplifier systems are going to be able to repair that.
As I've already said in an earlier post, the device I've recommended is NOT an FM transmitter which is prone to all sorts of interference, but a device which actually connects into the aerial line. The audio reproduction while using the MkI ear'ole is no different to any other FM radio station output. I've no doubt that if you turned up with an audio spectrum analyser you could find a difference in reproduction.
FlyingPete
Well-Known Member
Just to clarify, you still get the use of the in-dash CD player. It's meant to work with head units that have provision for a separate CD multi-changer. The interface just pretends to be the CD changer and so the head unit functions as normal. The one I had was on a fiesta with the CD radio- with the interface installed I could listen to the radio, a CD via the in-dash player, and my ipod through the CD changer function.
With my 90, I went for a roughly period-correct look which ended up with the exact reverse situation. I have a cassette/radio in the dash and a CD changer in the central cubby box. I can play my ipod via one of those cassette adapters.
I guess with the modulator, you'd just tune one of the radio's presets to the right frequency so you can find it easily, same as with any radio station. Presumably when traveling you'd still get the occasional interference from a genuine radio station on the same frequency.
brian47
Well-Known Member
OK Pete
This will give you some idea about how mine is set up. The modulator unit is under the dashboard, along with the fuseboard and just two thin cable come out of the crack below the phone; they're the charging and audio leads.
I have the LR Disco 2 "hi-line" ICE system, so I don't have a CD player slot on the dash, just a tape cassette slot, the CD player is a 6 disc auto changer. The hi-line head unit does not have an auxiliary input on the front or the rear panel.
So far as passing a radio station and picking up its signal, I don't think that is ever going to happen, there is nothing transmitting on 87.9 Mhz, just outside the 88-108 VHF FM broadcast band. The modulator, as I said doesn't transmit its signal to be picked up by your own car aerial but it injects the signal straight into the aerial cable, just before it goes into the radio. I tried one of those adapters that plug into the tape cassette slot but I wasn't impressed, especially when the little wheels started squeaking.
The little unit just below the phone with the numbers on it is a small voltmeter installed on the front of the coin holder.
