The clutch was fitted by a Landrover specialist in Essex. I didn't watch him fit it but I would think he's done it properly. I hear a rattle noise if in too high a gear from what I think is the IRd. It wasn't there with the prop attached.
I'm up at the TA centre tomorrow and they are gonna give it a look. If the garage are funny about it I'll get the army mechanics to take the gear box off and have a look.
 
We're just stupid enough to have Freelanders too so have been there before.
In my case 4 times :confused:
 
I wouldn't be so sure to write off "loose movements" in the IRD, but if it is the IRD it must be slipping some teeth or splines to make a series of judders - and that would make a noticable noise.

The clutch on my L Series (same box and clutch) judders like crazy - and I'm still running props. Pulling away from rest, it might be smooth, judder like crazy or anywhere in between. No matter how gentle I am with the clutch peddle - it makes no difference. There may also be a little judder going into 2nd, but from there upwards all is fine. The clutch is as strong as an Ox - its put through enough power to tow highly illegal weights since it has been doing this - and its been doing it for a couple of years now. In another couple of years it will be time to fix it - if the engine mounts haven't all disintegrated and the engine is left lieing on the side of the road somewhere!

Do you notice any oil spots on the drive? You'd probably need to have the undertray removed. I get regular drips from mine and the underside of the engine is very shiney! The oil looks to be coming though a foam pad between the bottom of the engine and bell housing. I'm therefore presuming that I do have a leak that is getting on the clutch. I am not losing much oil, I probably only top up once (if at all) between services and its an almost 20 year old engine - so doing pretty good.
 
The PG1 box is known as a bit of a judder monster. Oil contamination is one cause, but sticky splines and release bearings is another.
The ultimate problem is slight looseness of the input bearings. This doesn't provide adequate input shaft support, which initiates the slight off centre plate alignment. This is why all parts need proper lubrication, to avoid and stickiness.
Obviously oil leaks need attention too ;)
 
Sorry I've been on holidays and I thought I had solved this issue. But alas it's not sorted. I thought it was just the lever arm so gave it a spray with wd40 and it sort of went away but I've noticed it's a lot worse when the engine is hot during a long run. If trying to hill start in traffic it judders like fuk and I can hear the exhaust banging. This doesn't happen when the engine is cold really or even on a short run. It almost feels like it's wheel spinning without the wheel spin!
 
For this.
Adam Gorsuch said:
Sorry I've been on holidays and I thought I had solved this issue. But alas it's not sorted. I thought it was just the lever arm so gave it a spray with wd40 and it sort of went away but I've noticed it's a lot worse when the engine is hot during a long run. If trying to hill start in traffic it judders like fuk and I can hear the exhaust banging. This doesn't happen when the engine is cold really or even on a short run. It almost feels like it's wheel spinning without the wheel spin!
Click to expand...

See this.
Nodge68 said:
The PG1 box is known as a bit of a judder monster. Oil contamination is one cause, but sticky splines and release bearings is another.
The ultimate problem is slight looseness of the input bearings. This doesn't provide adequate input shaft support, which initiates the slight off centre plate alignment. This is why all parts need proper lubrication, to avoid and stickiness.
Obviously oil leaks need attention too ;)
Click to expand...
 
Adam Gorsuch said:
Sorry I've been on holidays and I thought I had solved this issue. But alas it's not sorted. I thought it was just the lever arm so gave it a spray with wd40 and it sort of went away but I've noticed it's a lot worse when the engine is hot during a long run. If trying to hill start in traffic it judders like fuk and I can hear the exhaust banging. This doesn't happen when the engine is cold really or even on a short run. It almost feels like it's wheel spinning without the wheel spin!
Click to expand...
Yip, sounds just like mine. I had to listen to endless complaints from her indoors who drove it most of the time but every time I drove it I had no issue. Eventually I replaced the clutch and the problem was solved.
The clutch was like new when I removed it but I suspect was a cheap nasty after market one so if you decide to change yours make sure you get a good quality one.

Edit, I just reread you had it replaced recently. Happy days! Now you know they cocked up the replacement you can take it back and get them to sort it properly.
 
I drove back from Plymouth to Essex yesterday. It pulls fine when past 2nd gear but after a long run and when you sit in traffic and then attempt to pull away in first it judders to hell to the point the exhaust bangs about. When in top gear and going anywhere over 70 it rattles a lot. The gear stick vibrates heavily. I've checked for any oil leaks but apart from the cam shaft seal I cant see any oil come from the bell housing. It's still got the nose dive feeling when in first and you come off the gas. All in all I'm fed up with it. Gonna go to the garage I took it too today. Hopefully they won't mess me about. I get the feeling that the ird is fukd
 
Today I changed the IRD. Worst job of my life. I did have a buddy to help who then changed his mind. By this point I'd already drained all the fluids.
It's was a **** to get out. And then I realised I wasn't strong enough to lift the ****ing thing in the gap whilst laying flat on the ground. The ground was covered in ground brick. So now my shoulders are red raw. Took 7 hours.. that I will never get back!
But it's in. I'm struggling to get used to not having a nose dive when I come off the gas. I kinda miss it.
Still get a slight knocking from the exhaust but it's not the same as before.
Does anyone have a spare bracket that mounts the exhaust to the to the IRD/prop. I've lost mine and think this will help prevent the exhaust rattle about. I couldn't bolt it to the sump as the mount is welded 2cm to far forward. Helpful.
Gonna refit the prop this week. This should help with locking it all up.
Rant over.

Oh and thanks to Bell for the IRD. My old one chucked out a loverly silver syrup. And will be winging its way to you soon.
 
Glad you found the fault in the end. If it's any consolation. An IRD change can be done in under 3 hours. Once you have done a few. It's no fun laying on your back, under the car with big heavy lumps of metal in your hands. But needs must and our baby LRs are worth it. ;)
 
Great you got it changed and sorted. Well done.

I feel your paint with doing the replacement. I've removed 2 and installed 1 so far and it is a job of brute strength and contortion. I couldn't have done it without a long extension handle on the ratchet, a jack to lower/lift the IRD, a bit of help from Mrs Grumpy to operate the jack while I maneuvered the IRD - but the biggest help was an inspection pit in the garage! Doing the job upright on your feet or knees is still a big job, but makes it a million times easier than being on your back. I simply would not do it like that.

If I deduct coffee, toilet and cursing time - 7 hours is still probably what it took me with mine :)
 
I should say though, I was bloody chuffed with myself and elated after I got mine installed and the car worked :)

Hope you got that saticfaction to :)
 
I didn't stop for coffee as I was using a neighbours drive and wanted to get it done and off his drive. Feeling it today. Very sore.
Yeah happy it's done. Just need to find an exhaust bracket and refit the prop.
I think the drop links have gone again too. That will be my 3rd set in 2 years. If I go over a bump it makes a Bang from the wheel area. Also noticed the bottom ball joint boot is torn and leaking. So more bloody work. Can't wait to drill the rivets out! Very annoying.
I went heathen and bought the 2wd IRD.
 
I had to press gang a neighbour into helping lift it. Tied some strapping round it and lifted it from above whilst I positioned it. Nightmare.
 
Adam Gorsuch said:
I didn't stop for coffee as I was using a neighbours drive and wanted to get it done and off his drive. Feeling it today. Very sore.
Yeah happy it's done. Just need to find an exhaust bracket and refit the prop.
I think the drop links have gone again too. That will be my 3rd set in 2 years. If I go over a bump it makes a Bang from the wheel area. Also noticed the bottom ball joint boot is torn and leaking. So more bloody work. Can't wait to drill the rivets out! Very annoying.
I went heathen and bought the 2wd IRD.
Click to expand...
When mine went bang I removed it and got a local engineering shop to install a bearing/seal kit that I had shipped over from the UK. I then refitted it. However, I got the shop to remove the pinion gear - so like you its been just 2WD. It has been perfectly reliable like this for 3 1/2 years now.

I've been lucky with my Freelander. Its a '99 and in the 6 odd years, and 100,000kms, we've had it I haven't needed to replace any drop-links, bushes, bearings, mounts, window winders etc. All I've had to repair is the IRD, ABS Pump and a head light - other than that just servicing. Its been a really really great car. So if you can get the bits sorted, it should give you decent hassle-free motoring.
 
Adam Gorsuch said:
I had to press gang a neighbour into helping lift it. Tied some strapping round it and lifted it from above whilst I positioned it. Nightmare.
Click to expand...
I'm fortunate enough to have an engine hoist which took all the weight so it was a lot easier for me.
BTW old cardboard boxes are great for lying on while working on stony ground. ;)
 
Ok new issue.
So I'm a army reserve with a reme unit. Had them look at my car last week and found that both my drive shafts are shagged. So bought new ones. And got them fitted today. Standard army mechanics, got them fitted mega quick and everyone happy until I pull away and find that there a rubbing sound coming from the n/s wheel. So go back and the re tighten the hub nut. Now this has made the sound a touch quieter but I'm not happy. Could this be the issue and they just need tourqueing up correctly?
 
Probably bad drive shafts - going by the threads that pass through here, there's a very high %age of aftermarket driveshafts that are just useless out of the box.
 
It could be something simple, like brake back plate catching on the disc. Or the hub nut is over tightened, damaging the bearing. It could be the drive shafts are non LR and so are rubbish.
 
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