jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
they will ,but at least you can still drive the vehicle
pontyslapper
Brought a Landy to LZ11. Yay!!
I'm gonna leave it 'in bits' over the weekend and 'enjoy' driving the wife's passat estate - which feels like a racing car as you're low down and in a petrol compared to the old disco.
I'm thinking I might just have a potter around underneath and see what else needs looking at or replacing. As you do like!
Its got to the point now that I'm not that keen on driving regular cars! Is that weird or what?!?
I'm thinking I might just have a potter around underneath and see what else needs looking at or replacing. As you do like!
Its got to the point now that I'm not that keen on driving regular cars! Is that weird or what?!?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
no ,i much prefer driving a disco much more than anything else
pontyslapper
Brought a Landy to LZ11. Yay!!
Bits that were changed...
Both UJs and the bit that bolts onto the flange at the box end - it was a tad mangled from being flung about on its short journey of looseness!
I have not taken the prop apart so all splines are as they were - very careful not to 'snap' the prop so to speak the most I've done is pulled it out by about an inch whilst taking it off so it wasn't just dangling in space and getting in the way.
Job on tuesday is to remove flange at box end and renew the bolts with shiny new ones, then replace the prop and bolt it back together with shiny new nuts and bolts.
Then I can be sure it is done! I know some would say this is a bit OTT - replacing the nuts and bolts, but for the want of a few quid I feel it worth the wait.
Both UJs and the bit that bolts onto the flange at the box end - it was a tad mangled from being flung about on its short journey of looseness!
I have not taken the prop apart so all splines are as they were - very careful not to 'snap' the prop so to speak the most I've done is pulled it out by about an inch whilst taking it off so it wasn't just dangling in space and getting in the way.
Job on tuesday is to remove flange at box end and renew the bolts with shiny new ones, then replace the prop and bolt it back together with shiny new nuts and bolts.
Then I can be sure it is done! I know some would say this is a bit OTT - replacing the nuts and bolts, but for the want of a few quid I feel it worth the wait.
pontyslapper
Brought a Landy to LZ11. Yay!!
Illness has got the better of me so nothing has been done with getting it all back together barring a trip over to Bearmach's to get the nuts and bolts and discovering that an old school mate works there - no bloody discount mind but I'll work on him!
Any tips on removing the propshaft mounting flange from the gearbox gratefully received as my illness is such that it affects my guts so I can't welly stuff like I used to.
Is there any magic combination for 'locking' the manual gearbox so the swine doesn't spin when somebody is tugging on the flange nut so to speak??
Any tips on removing the propshaft mounting flange from the gearbox gratefully received as my illness is such that it affects my guts so I can't welly stuff like I used to.
Is there any magic combination for 'locking' the manual gearbox so the swine doesn't spin when somebody is tugging on the flange nut so to speak??
Illness has got the better of me so nothing has been done with getting it all back together barring a trip over to Bearmach's to get the nuts and bolts and discovering that an old school mate works there - no bloody discount mind but I'll work on him!
Any tips on removing the propshaft mounting flange from the gearbox gratefully received as my illness is such that it affects my guts so I can't welly stuff like I used to.
Is there any magic combination for 'locking' the manual gearbox so the swine doesn't spin when somebody is tugging on the flange nut so to speak??
leave the handbrake on and undo the nut, it might take a long bar to crack it. then slacken the drum, take it off and the flange should just pull out.. maybe with a couple of gentle tugs.
:doh: i was on about rear
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timtheenchanteruk
Well-Known Member
to get mine off on the fender, I wedged the breaker bar against the chassis on the appropriate side.
REMOVED the SOLENOID WIRE from the injection pump (important this bit )
put it in low box, difloc off, and flicked it on the starter, took a couple of shots, but it cracked the nut off.
REMOVED the SOLENOID WIRE from the injection pump (important this bit
)put it in low box, difloc off, and flicked it on the starter, took a couple of shots, but it cracked the nut off.
pontyslapper
Brought a Landy to LZ11. Yay!!
Tim that sounds like an inspired bit of ingenuity - I think that has got to be worth a try let the car do the work!
pontyslapper
Brought a Landy to LZ11. Yay!!
Job done - finished at about 8.15 last night.
FiL came down and sat in the driver seat and did the necessary with the gears/brakes moving it back and forth while I was bolting the oily bits on underneath.
The flange was a bit stubborn, but didn't need to resort to Tim's method - just found a gear that 'locked' enough for me to give it a jerk with a breaker bar.
Took the opportunity to plop a blob of fresh grease in the flange over the needle splines as the old grease was a bit stale!
New nuts and bolts was the way to go - as was the propshaft tool - best 6-7 quid I've spent on tools - way easier than messing with 14mm sockets!! Get one if you plan on doing the job.
Big thanks to Mark for the props - they will now be serviced and will replace the battered and bruised ones on the disco, but at least I'm mobile again for the time being.
Luckily no wobbles or owt on the test drive last night, so no having to mess with jubilee clips for balancing - key to this may have been a bit of advice picked up here about not 'splitting or breaking' the prop where she moves to allow for vehicle flex.
Again, thanks to all who posted hints and tips it all added to the experience of what to do or not!
One thing I will say - DO NOT IGNORE THE RUMBLE - check yer UJ's and get 'em swapped, as have been said time and time again.
FiL came down and sat in the driver seat and did the necessary with the gears/brakes moving it back and forth while I was bolting the oily bits on underneath.
The flange was a bit stubborn, but didn't need to resort to Tim's method - just found a gear that 'locked' enough for me to give it a jerk with a breaker bar.
Took the opportunity to plop a blob of fresh grease in the flange over the needle splines as the old grease was a bit stale!
New nuts and bolts was the way to go - as was the propshaft tool - best 6-7 quid I've spent on tools - way easier than messing with 14mm sockets!! Get one if you plan on doing the job.
Big thanks to Mark for the props - they will now be serviced and will replace the battered and bruised ones on the disco, but at least I'm mobile again for the time being.
Luckily no wobbles or owt on the test drive last night, so no having to mess with jubilee clips for balancing - key to this may have been a bit of advice picked up here about not 'splitting or breaking' the prop where she moves to allow for vehicle flex.
Again, thanks to all who posted hints and tips it all added to the experience of what to do or not!
One thing I will say - DO NOT IGNORE THE RUMBLE - check yer UJ's and get 'em swapped, as have been said time and time again.
shoottruck
Member
Hi all new here, could anyone describe the noise of a failing uj? I have a cabin reverberation between 65 and 70 mph regardless of gear or neutral, power on or power off. Runs great upto and beyond those speeds.
confused.....
confused.....
get underneath and check all UJ's. cheap enough to replace.
shoottruck
Member
thanks mad hat, I will have a roll around on the driveway later.
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
Chock wheels, transferbox in nuetral and handbrake off when checking.....in case you didn't know
pontyslapper
Brought a Landy to LZ11. Yay!!
ST, don't even consider it - just whip 'em off and do 'em.
I'm about to sling a new donut on my rear prop as its just giving the hint of vibration. Not getting caught out again!
Got the rear donut kit off the shelf and in me grubby paws at bearmachs for penny's over twenty quid. Happy happy. I know it could've been gotten cheaper off the bay, but bearmachs is just a short 15 minute dap away and I do think I am lucky having them that close so I'd rather chuck them the dough rather than some reseller as I'm now getting a rapport with the chaps on the counter and the fantastic lady that does their ebay clearance stuff!
I'm about to sling a new donut on my rear prop as its just giving the hint of vibration. Not getting caught out again!
Got the rear donut kit off the shelf and in me grubby paws at bearmachs for penny's over twenty quid. Happy happy. I know it could've been gotten cheaper off the bay, but bearmachs is just a short 15 minute dap away and I do think I am lucky having them that close so I'd rather chuck them the dough rather than some reseller as I'm now getting a rapport with the chaps on the counter and the fantastic lady that does their ebay clearance stuff!
If you have the Donut, change the centering bush that sits inside the end of the propshaft. It does wear and will allow the propshaft to 'whirl' in a circle that is outside the circle it should run at. Gives a lot of vibration at speed.
Donuts should last for ages, ours is on a D2 V8 that tows a lot, has lasted 45000+ miles.
Peter
Donuts should last for ages, ours is on a D2 V8 that tows a lot, has lasted 45000+ miles.
Peter
pontyslapper
Brought a Landy to LZ11. Yay!!
Twas 20 quid for the complete kit so may as well do the whole shooting match as the bush - either way the bleeder has to come off!
