hiya

since replacing my rear brake lines the brakes have been superb

however getting into it today ive noticed there is air in the line again,

checked all the joints and all dry

do u think if i take all the joints apart again and put a couple of wraps of ptfe around the threads will help, have tried nipping them up abit but still got the air in the lines unless this is the norm

james has gone away for a couple of weeks so am stumped a bit cause i cant get under the car

the peddle doesnt go to the floor and brakes well, just seems a bit spongy if that makes sense

also going through the four homemade flares we made were 2 x males and 2 females

now on re reading the flaring tool instruction it says i can make single or double female flares now we only made single female flares

do they need to come out again and double flares to be done, could the reason why one burst because we only done a single female flare

sorry to ask but of course need to make sure 110 percent the brakes are **** hot as if not for myself but of course so they do not fail under any circumstances as i have a responsibility to other road users

has been a steep learning curve but need to ensure they are spot on

plus managed to check the autobox oil level and found it was nearly a quater of a litre over filled, done it at 40 c, as per instructions and write ups from this forum and it came out fairly red also engine oil and filter was also done

thks guys

gary

Morning gary it might be an air lock in therestill surely there would be some sign of fluid if a union was bad?

If all the joints are dry then there is no need to open them up. Air at 14.5psi can't get in if fluid at 3000psi can't get out Don't put ptfe tape in there as it won't work. As said above, you may have some air remaining in the system. Bleed them again in the correct sequence.

thks guys

its driving me nuts abit ,

we bled the passenger rear first then the drivers rear then the fronts

done it till all the old brake fluid came out then new .

as u say maybe i should bleed them again but will have to wait a couple of weeks until james gets back,

just driving me insane as we took so much time and care over it , but suppose that it how things go

we done it the old fashioned way of bleeding them, but maybe it would be better to use the easy bleed system ive got but says not to exceed 20 psi on the side of the bottle.

could easily use the spare tyre by letting it down to 20 psi then trying that,

was wondering if i could attach the bottle empty to the main servo then attatch the bottle to the tyre and check the joints to see if anything comes out of the joints

this may sound daft but ive seen more expensive flaring tools for around 100 quid and my son said he would buy one if it meant the tool providing better flares

should i get the single female flares cut off and make new ones , many garages around here want a few hundred quid to do them , to which i simply cant afford,

just wish to get them out if the way and also know there 110 percent perfect , can then move on but i just feel abit uneasy and its always in the back of my head they will split or pop again

we rechecked the joints and all seems well, dont wish to just keep over tightening them in the risk of damaging the falre

seen some flaring machines for around the 100 quid mark but unsure if they are indeed superior to the one i bought for around 40 quid

i do apologise for driving u nuts with this and find it so frustrating i cant get under the car myself anymore

really appreciate ur input and maybe as u guys say is to bleed them out again and go from there

thks so much again

gary

If you are unsure keep pressing the brake pedal hard and keep. Pressure on it with the motor running this will put the max strain on the system do it as many times as you can and then check the work you have done! When driving if you stamped on the pedal that hard you insides would fly out

ryan168 said:

If you are unsure keep pressing the brake pedal hard and keep. Pressure on it with the motor running this will put the max strain on the system do it as many times as you can and then check the work you have done! When driving if you stamped on the pedal that hard you insides would fly out

Click to expand...

hiya

thks, james put his foot on the brake with the engine running for nearly a minute , we checked all the joints

like u say it may just be some air going around

just frightened me a abit with that joint popping out and made me a bit paranoid, lolol

havent tried an emergency stop yet,

trouble is i cant see the back joints anymore as the wheels are back on, the only ones i can see are at the abs unit,

if it didnt rain could possible get some paper towels wrapped around the joints though, but as the dew etc is around now in the mornings might not be a good test

think i will have to wait till james gets back re bleed them and go from there .

in the mean time a can at least monitor the abs unit for any form of leaks

thks guys and sorry being so paranoid but have a duty or care to other road users

gary

Taking pride in the work you do is always a good thing!!!all the best. Ryan

They should be double female flares.
Air can get back into the system past the bleed nipple threads-I had this happen when I replaced my rear wheel cylinders a few months ago. I sorted this out by putting a couple of wraps of PTFE tape round the threads of the bleed nipples DO NOT put it on the coned end..just the threads. Never had the problem with the front bleed screws.
Logic says bleed from the furthest nipple first and work back to the nearest but RAVE for some reason says different !! Try using the RAVE method.
I have used a pressure bleed kit for years without problems and use it at between 20-25psi. The normal way is to use it with the spare wheel but I connect it to a compressor via a Pressure Regulator valve fitted with a gauge set at 25psi.
Change the single flares as soon as you can.

Irishrover said:

They should be double female flares.
Air can get back into the system past the bleed nipple threads-I had this happen when I replaced my rear wheel cylinders a few months ago. I sorted this out by putting a couple of wraps of PTFE tape round the threads of the bleed nipples DO NOT put it on the coned end..just the threads. Never had the problem with the front bleed screws.
Logic says bleed from the furthest nipple first and work back to the nearest but RAVE for some reason says different !! Try using the RAVE method.
I have used a pressure bleed kit for years without problems and use it at between 20-25psi. The normal way is to use it with the spare wheel but I connect it to a compressor via a Pressure Regulator valve fitted with a gauge set at 25psi.
Change the single flares as soon as you can.

Click to expand...

thks my friend, once james gets back will indeed get them changed to double flares, i think i will keep it off the road as i would be mortified if they failed and i hurt somebody and would never forgive myself

also will then do the bleeding the other way , the spare is at 30 psi, do u think it would be ok to leave it at that or drop the pressure to around 25 psi

the rear bleed nipples are new and know what u mean about just a little bit of ptfe on the threads to stop any air ingress

really appreciate the help and will report back what ive done so it can at least help others

thks guys

gary

hiya

plus this is the flaring tool i bought

what a doughnut i am as i should have reread the instructions about making a double female flare , doooohhhhh.

http://www.lasertools.co.uk/items/pdf/Products/3434_Instructions.pdf

gary