lenny1234
Active Member
Most people prefer to trailer em.
In fact very few people tow cars these days.
Autos and AWD are less happy than the old days of 2WD and manuals
Hippo
Lord Hippo
I'm with the AA for this reason. They will lift the whole Freelander. Cheaper cover doesn't always have this option. If you break down yer stuck so get tricked into accepting what they offer.
guineafowl21
Well-Known Member
Tapley meter?
Hippo
Lord Hippo
Measures the braking effect as you can't put a 4x4 Freelander on a 2 wheel roller for the brake test, unless the prop is removed.
Right i bought the car 
it was 100 euros so just in parts im well in to either put on mine ie wheels etc a few pics to follow and as you can see its tyres are new and it comes with 5 new tyres on new alloys (plus a sith one part used)
it has uk headlights with it (fitted with eurp ones right now)
full leather ,air con etc , mine is the base model and has nothing in it !!!!
mines a td4 where this is a v6 auto that will not start :-(
its only done 47000miles from new !!!!!!!!! *as pic shows below under the bonnet looks very clean
[URL=http://s58.photobucket.com/user/jogriffin/media/20150317_174221_zpscbui2njb.jpg.html]
i think it looks spot on but i think it may be the hg the previous owner says it had like bubbles in the header tank :-(
theres no water in the oil but if bubbles i assume gasses getting in the water jacket :-(
so question is do i look at trying to fix her ? or just take parts from it????
its a year newer than my td4 ,my td4 has done 147000miles where this has done 47000 ,but mines running well ,this is not,mines manual this is auto,mines derv and this is v6 petrol
so any ideas ??????
it was 100 euros so just in parts im well in to either put on mine ie wheels etc a few pics to follow and as you can see its tyres are new and it comes with 5 new tyres on new alloys (plus a sith one part used)it has uk headlights with it (fitted with eurp ones right now)
full leather ,air con etc , mine is the base model and has nothing in it !!!!
mines a td4 where this is a v6 auto that will not start :-(
its only done 47000miles from new !!!!!!!!! *as pic shows below under the bonnet looks very clean
[URL=http://s58.photobucket.com/user/jogriffin/media/20150317_174221_zpscbui2njb.jpg.html]
i think it looks spot on but i think it may be the hg the previous owner says it had like bubbles in the header tank :-(
theres no water in the oil but if bubbles i assume gasses getting in the water jacket :-(
so question is do i look at trying to fix her ? or just take parts from it????
its a year newer than my td4 ,my td4 has done 147000miles where this has done 47000 ,but mines running well ,this is not,mines manual this is auto,mines derv and this is v6 petrol
so any ideas ??????
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guineafowl21
Well-Known Member
100 euros would barely pay for one wheel and tyre, so you can't lose no matter what you do!
I'd be tempted to at least look into getting it running - for the head gasket, check for oil in the water and water in the oil. Better still, buy a combustion leak test kit. Do a compression test on all cylinders, too.
Check it over for the usual FL problems - window regs, locking, VCU/IRD, etc. Then make your decision.
It would be fun to swap your Td4 powertrain into it - depends how energetic you're feeling.
I'd be tempted to at least look into getting it running - for the head gasket, check for oil in the water and water in the oil. Better still, buy a combustion leak test kit. Do a compression test on all cylinders, too.
Check it over for the usual FL problems - window regs, locking, VCU/IRD, etc. Then make your decision.
It would be fun to swap your Td4 powertrain into it - depends how energetic you're feeling.
well just been up to the car to take the batery off it as its dead (is a new batery too was bought for it 3 mnths ago lol )
any how before disconecting the bat i tried to jump start it with my td4 ,was very strange ,the sellar had said when they got it it had a duff bat so they got the new one ,put it on and it started first time, the drove it around 5 miles then parked it up but never started again.
i thought from what they said it was turning over but just not firing like BUT when i tried i put it in PARK and turned the key to make dash lights come on ,all was well ! turned key further to the starting postion and NOTHING it is like there is no starter motor fitted lol ,the fuel pump kicked in the imobiliser seemed to have switched off (infact seeing i could hear the fuel pump it must of turned off)
So my question now is could the not starting be
1 starter motor solenoid broke?
2 starter wirer come off ?
3 starting relay ?
4 barrel ?
what you think any ideas? (they said hg but to stop and not start again because of hgf surely it would of needed to go completly and there would def be signs of it would there not ?)
surely more like something wrong in the ignition system?
but any help on what it could be please
was bought for it 3 mnths ago lol )any how before disconecting the bat i tried to jump start it with my td4 ,was very strange ,the sellar had said when they got it it had a duff bat so they got the new one ,put it on and it started first time, the drove it around 5 miles then parked it up but never started again.
i thought from what they said it was turning over but just not firing like BUT when i tried i put it in PARK and turned the key to make dash lights come on ,all was well ! turned key further to the starting postion and NOTHING it is like there is no starter motor fitted lol ,the fuel pump kicked in the imobiliser seemed to have switched off (infact seeing i could hear the fuel pump it must of turned off)
So my question now is could the not starting be
1 starter motor solenoid broke?
2 starter wirer come off ?
3 starting relay ?
4 barrel ?
what you think any ideas? (they said hg but to stop and not start again because of hgf surely it would of needed to go completly and there would def be signs of it would there not ?)
surely more like something wrong in the ignition system?
but any help on what it could be please
guineafowl21
Well-Known Member
No experience with the V6, I'm afraid, but in general:
Ignition switch unlikely given the mileage, but it could be that some anus has been driving it with every key they've ever owned hanging off the keyring. Check for 12v at the starter spade terminal while the key is turned.
If yes - suspect battery, cables, solenoid or starter.
If no - suspect ignition switch, relay, immobiliser or wiring fault.
EDIT: I forgot it's an automatic so investigate the neutral safety switch - I'll have to hand over to someone who likes driving dodgems to help you with that one...
Ignition switch unlikely given the mileage, but it could be that some anus has been driving it with every key they've ever owned hanging off the keyring. Check for 12v at the starter spade terminal while the key is turned.
If yes - suspect battery, cables, solenoid or starter.
If no - suspect ignition switch, relay, immobiliser or wiring fault.
EDIT: I forgot it's an automatic so investigate the neutral safety switch - I'll have to hand over to someone who likes driving dodgems to help you with that one...
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GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
There's a thread just gone through were the starter relay fuse was blown and keeps blowing every time they replace it and try to start it - that'd be my first looksie.
It was Fuse 1 in the engine bay on that - but it was a K Series - have a look in the Rave for the V6 to find which one it is.
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/starting-problem-275815.html
If he said there were bubbles in the expansion tank though - there's a good possibility it has HGF - in fact an any point in time the K & KV6's have a good possibility of HGF - so stick with the diesel!
It was Fuse 1 in the engine bay on that - but it was a K Series - have a look in the Rave for the V6 to find which one it is.
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/starting-problem-275815.html
If he said there were bubbles in the expansion tank though - there's a good possibility it has HGF - in fact an any point in time the K & KV6's have a good possibility of HGF - so stick with the diesel!
+1 on both posts, especially the neutral safety switch. Give her a chance before you start pulling bits off!. Looks a nice car. Grumpy has a point on possible HGF, but it might not be the end of the world.
It may not take a fortune to find where you stand. If its totally U/S then to bits she goes. There is an increasing world shortage of V engines!
Gimme Gimme Gimme!...lol!
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Hippo
Lord Hippo
Can you edit yer post with the pic's and put a return on the end of each photo string to put the photo's 1 below the other as opposed to side by side.
Not starting could be all sorts like failed switch on the rear of the ignition.
Bubbles in the coolant reservoir could be down to a simple coolant leak letting air in. Head gasket is stainless steel on the v6.
Not starting could be all sorts like failed switch on the rear of the ignition.
Bubbles in the coolant reservoir could be down to a simple coolant leak letting air in. Head gasket is stainless steel on the v6.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
On my L Series when the car's locked there's a light that flashes on the dash. If the immobiliser kicks in - I'm sure this stays lit - showing that the immobilier will not let the engine start.
Presumably the light you referred to above does the same on the V6?
Given the amout of work you've done on your TD4, I'm sure you'll find the answer to this 'reasonably easily' (famous last words
).Going from that other thread (which was a K Series)...
The starter solenoid takes its power from fuse F1 in the engine bay. It is enabled by the starter motor relay.
So, wire to from + terminal on battery to fusebox in the engine compartment, fuse f1, wire from fuse f1 to starter relay and finally wire from relay to starter solenoid. The solenoid is earthed through the engine.
The relay is energised by a positive feed from the 'crank' position on the ignition switch - but its earth goes through the CCU - so to be energised the key must be on crank and the CCU must ground the earth (if the immobiliser's on it won't do that).
The wiring is a bit more complicated. Same wire from the battery to the fusebox in the engine compartment. It looks like power goes through fusable link 4 then fusable link 3. From FL3 there's a wire to the ignition switch. From the 'crank' position on the switch theres a wire to Fuse 5 in the passenger compartment fusebox. From Fuse 5 theres a wire to the starter motor relay. From the relay there's a wire to the CCU - and from there I should think it has a common ground for various purposes.
As I said this is the layout for the K Series. The KV6 will probably be different - but worth checking the immobiliser then the fuses, which ever they are on the KV6 (Rave will be your friend), relay and wiring.
On the other thread, it is because of a fuse that keeps blowing - I don't think its anything to do with the starter wiring (although it might), I think its because the fuse powers an O2 sensor relay as well and I think that wiring is blowing the fuse. The OP hasn't been able to confirm yet.
when gear lever in park it has a red light next to the P and on the digi display on dash it shows a P too
any one has a idiots guide how to make sure my imobalizer has turned off ? like i said the fuel pump kicks in
ps also to save me looking for ages ,where is the starter motor on this engine?
any one has a idiots guide how to make sure my imobalizer has turned off ? like i said the fuel pump kicks in
ps also to save me looking for ages ,where is the starter motor on this engine?
YAY YAY YAY
SHE LIVES IVE GOT HER STARTED !!!!!
it was a loose wirer around the starter motor !!!!!!!!!!
BUT she def sounds as rought as ####
but the old owner said hgf but as far as i can see all seems good that way lol just the noise it makes , heres a vid of it started where you can hear the noise !!!!
not sure if either a tappet ,the alt bearing or something deeper like the timming some how
maybe you guys can help me (but to be fare its the first time its started in around 6 mnths )
as you can hear it def has a prob
SHE LIVES
IVE GOT HER STARTED !!!!!it was a loose wirer around the starter motor !!!!!!!!!!
BUT she def sounds as rought as ####
but the old owner said hgf but as far as i can see all seems good that way lol just the noise it makes , heres a vid of it started where you can hear the noise !!!!
not sure if either a tappet ,the alt bearing or something deeper like the timming some how
maybe you guys can help me (but to be fare its the first time its started in around 6 mnths )
as you can hear it def has a prob
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Well done on getting it started. It does sound rather rough
There sounds like a bit of a background whirring noise - which sounds the same as I had on my L Series and was convinced it was going to die - but has been absolutely fine.
The knocking does sound like tappet(s) which if the previous guy hadn't had any problems with before will probably sort itself - but will presumably be helped with an oil change. I don't know much about them though so not the most reliable advice!
There sounds like a bit of a background whirring noise - which sounds the same as I had on my L Series and was convinced it was going to die - but has been absolutely fine.
The knocking does sound like tappet(s) which if the previous guy hadn't had any problems with before will probably sort itself - but will presumably be helped with an oil change. I don't know much about them though so not the most reliable advice!
