S

Scoobyd00

New Member
Regrettably, I own and operate a 2003 D2 TD5 XS. I know, I really shouldn't but hey, someone has to and it might as well as be me! This is my third Disco and having already replaced the air-springs with coils etc (done by garage) I now have the ACE to anti-roll bar kit from Island 4x4 and wondered if anyone could point me in the direction of a step-by-step instruction to just this. I'm intending to leave most of the ACE on it

Much appreciated :) Tony
 
I've just replaced ACE on my car with such a kit, due to economic (and corrosion) reasons. Can't say I notice any difference at all in the handling. I just started from the rear of the car and worked forward; removing the system as I went. Prepare for oil spillage, I put lots of cardboard down and didn't make a mess but caught most of the oil in an oil drain pan. You will need an OBD reader/writer to tell the ECU/BCU that the car no longer has ACE.
 
Why remove the superior ACE with the anti rollbars and down grade?

I notice my ACE kicking in on every roundabout. Just fix it, it isn't that difficult or expensive to fix.

 
First stage of an ACE rebuild is costing me abiout £100, that was for a replacemetn block and machining to take industry standard connectors.

Mine is weeping at the front not leaking.

Will slice off pipes and use standard hydraulic components.
 
MJI said:
First stage of an ACE rebuild is costing me abiout £100, that was for a replacemetn block and machining to take industry standard connectors.

Mine is weeping at the front not leaking.

Will slice off pipes and use standard hydraulic components.
Click to expand...

I paid around £60 for making threading in the ACE valve block to hold normal 10mm hydraulic pressure fittings. That was the only expensive bit.
I will only use standard hydraulics after this as well, it is easy, cheap and quick.

I would never get rid of the ACE it is brilliant.
 
On my car, the previous owner had monkeyed about with it and all pipes needed replacing due to corrosion. Final straw was the pump seizing and causing a snapped belt! I also caused an issue when changing springs. It may well be brilliant when kept in order but when it's neglected...
 
Salisburylander said:
On my car, the previous owner had monkeyed about with it and all pipes needed replacing due to corrosion. Final straw was the pump seizing and causing a snapped belt! I also caused an issue when changing springs. It may well be brilliant when kept in order but when it's neglected...
Click to expand...

The pump probably seized because it ran dry, but everything is crap when it is neglected. What I don't understand though is that you say you don't notice any difference while it seems that it never worked properly if your pump seized.

Mine leaked a little bit at the ACE block and boy did it make a difference when that was fixed. The Disco stays straight as can be now and corners like never before.
It is pretty simple to switch to standard 10mm hydraulic fittings and after that any repair will be a lot cheaper.
 
But you are right that you need to keep an eye on the level of the ACE fluid because it did cost me a pump too when a failed to that.
 
Never thought of that; It may well have not been working to specification! Too late now though, in a fit of frustration and with the use of an angle-grinder, it has gone the same way as the Norwegian Blue!
 
I have to keep a look out at the levels on mine, cornering is fine

£50 for block and £60 for machining, then sell my old block (or keep as spare)
 
MJI said:
I have to keep a look out at the levels on mine, cornering is fine

£50 for block and £60 for machining, then sell my old block (or keep as spare)
Click to expand...
Although I thought cornering was fine too with the leak I noticed a huge improvement once it was sorted. I love how it corners now.

I kept the old block as a spare, not sure if I will machine it as well and sell on or not.
I had it donated to me by a fellow Disco driver.
 
MJI said:
Why do you want to?

Easier to fix what is already fitted.
Click to expand...
Fluid loss I'm afraid. The pipes are goosed all over and are either pitted or rusted to glory. At £90 per routed ACE pipe on a vehicle at 13 years old and no guarantee that I'll ever get a good seal on the alloy block or elsewhere it's a no brainer, they're just too problematic. I've since taken a look underneath and it looks pretty straight forward to replace with ARB's and renew the downlinks I think I'm gonna leave the pump on for now and just re-route the exit port from the pump back to the reservoir too, leaving me with only the Nancom part in order to deactivate the ACE via the ECU. At least the leak I have is keeping the underneath from rusting.....
 
Scoobyd00 said:
Fluid loss I'm afraid. The pipes are goosed all over and are either pitted or rusted to glory. At £90 per routed ACE pipe on a vehicle at 13 years old and no guarantee that I'll ever get a good seal on the alloy block or elsewhere it's a no brainer, they're just too problematic. I've since taken a look underneath and it looks pretty straight forward to replace with ARB's and renew the downlinks I think I'm gonna leave the pump on for now and just re-route the exit port from the pump back to the reservoir too, leaving me with only the Nancom part in order to deactivate the ACE via the ECU. At least the leak I have is keeping the underneath from rusting.....
Click to expand...


This is why phase two of my ACE repair will be new pipes to the rams, about £30 a pair from a hydraulic speciast
 
Scoobyd00 said:
Fluid loss I'm afraid. The pipes are goosed all over and are either pitted or rusted to glory. At £90 per routed ACE pipe on a vehicle at 13 years old and no guarantee that I'll ever get a good seal on the alloy block or elsewhere it's a no brainer, they're just too problematic. I've since taken a look underneath and it looks pretty straight forward to replace with ARB's and renew the downlinks I think I'm gonna leave the pump on for now and just re-route the exit port from the pump back to the reservoir too, leaving me with only the Nancom part in order to deactivate the ACE via the ECU. At least the leak I have is keeping the underneath from rusting.....
Click to expand...

Don't use expensive ACE pipes, as above; standard hydraulics are cheap and better.

You can cut the sections that are broken and replace with pipe using 10mm hydraulic pressure fittings. Much cheaper and quicker than replacing whole pipes
 
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