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adrianhartopp

Active Member

• Mar 29, 2016

• #1

I've got a leaking ACE system at the valve block, right hand side, pipe nearest the chassis. I've put new seals into the block but this didn't stop the leak and I've also tried a different block but again, still leaking.

I've therefore taken the decision to remove the ACE and put on standard anti-roll bars.

I'd like to know from those that have done this if there is a "best practice" for removing the current ACE system i.e. remove these parts in this order etc, etc.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

listerdiesel

Well-Known Member

Events Planner

• Mar 29, 2016

• #2

Anti-roll bars and links first, a cutting disc in an angle grinder is needed to get the links off as you'll unlikely to be able to do them.

Pipes next, again, cut the pipes up, especially the front ones, try and drain them out as much as possible first.

Valve block last, unplug and remove.

I've still got the very rearmost pipe sections in place as I couldn't get at the clip holding them in place, but cut them back as much as possible. It passed its MOT like that.

ACE pump removal needs a different belt and possibly an extra idler wheel, depends on your engine. Single reservoir fluid tank is nicer but not essential, finishes the job off.

Last item is to get the ACE warning light off, haven't done mine yet!

Peter

 

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adrianhartopp

Active Member

• Mar 29, 2016

• #3

Hi Peter,

Many thanks for the information, that's just what I'm after.

Cheers,

Adrian

 

300bhp/ton

Well-Known Member

• Mar 29, 2016

• #4

adrianhartopp said:

I've therefore taken the decision to remove the ACE and put on standard anti-roll bars.

Click to expand...

That sounds like such a poor decision. Your effort would be better spent on sorting the issues with ACE. I suspect when all said and done it'll probably be less work and cheaper too.

ACE makes a huge difference and removing it is a backwards step.

 

listerdiesel

Well-Known Member

Events Planner

• Mar 29, 2016

• #5

We have converted both of our D2's to non-ACE, best thing we've ever done, and the 'new' D2 V8 came without ACE fitted.

Too many things to go wrong with the system, especially when you're in Europe towing a big trailer and the warning light comes on !

Happily it went out after a stop and restart on three separate occasions in Holland and France, so nice not to have that worry.

Peter

 

MJI

Well-Known Member

• Mar 30, 2016

• #6

I'm getting my valve block converted then fitting hydraulic hoses, similar to D2BC thread

 

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adrianhartopp

Active Member

• Apr 4, 2016

• #7

Spent 9 hours yesterday fitting this and there doesn't seem to be much ride difference at all, maybe slightly more roll but I'm happy to cope with that. What took the longest time was getting the pipes out from around the engine bay.

I had toyed with the idea of hydraulic conversion but didn't have a spare valve block to convert while using the disco daily.

If anyone want's a spare though I now have one, along with an ACE pump, front and rear roll bars and multi-section pipes

Thanks again for the help with this, greatly appreciated.

 

listerdiesel

Well-Known Member

Events Planner

• Apr 4, 2016

• #8

I sold all of our bits on ebay.

Peter