Irishrover
Well-Known Member
The sensor fits into a spring type bush. Smear plenty of silicone grease on the sensor body and push it in until it contacts the reluctor ring.
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
There is quite a bit of resistance pushing the sensor in, and might require a light tap or two to fit it. The sensor, I assume came out o.k. but with a bit of a pull to overcome the built in spring tension of the bush. If you are unsure, I suggest you get a new bush from your local dealer and replace the existing one. As stated before, give the shank of the sensor a good greasing with SILICONE grease. Driving the car without the sensor in place will kick up an ABS fault and the ABS will be disabled, but normal braking available.
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
make sure the sensor is fully home and lightly touching the sensor ring
bwarb
New Member
Are RR ABS wheel sensors VRS or Hall Effect (how many wires go to them) ?
How are you checking for voltage at the sensor, I think you will need to look at the signal with a scope not a multi-meter .....?
its a two pin plug into a sealed sensor, ive placed my multimeter across the pins and managed to read just under 1vDC on the NSF while spining the wheel but get nothing on the OSF???
Could some one put an ohms meter across a sensor they know works and give me a continuity reading that wold be great.
Could some one put an ohms meter across a sensor they know works and give me a continuity reading that wold be great.
bwarb
New Member
Two wires would seem to imply that it's a variable reluctance sensor (VRS). The reference/trigger points on a VRS are the zero crossings and the overall signal is a variable amplitude sine wave. The peak to peak amplitude could be hundreds of volts depending on the size of the teeth, the air gap and the speed of rotation. If you measure it on a meter set to DC, the meter will average out the largely "AC type" signal and should return 0v or close to it (1v is close to it when p2p is 100+v).
I've never tried it as I have always checked VR signals with a scope, but have you tried monitoring the signal with the meter set to AC as that may return more meaningful results?
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
Push the sensor in until it just touches the reluctor ring. There is no way you can check the gap on a P38 anyway.
new (well second hand) sensor fitted, still getting the 2.8 fault code,
pulled the NSF one out (OSF was the replaced one) and swaped them over, on fault code bar the 2.8
Any way it went for an MOT and only failed on brake pipes, The local test centre whos moto “Helping You on the Road to Happiness” never even mentioned the ABS light.
pulled the NSF one out (OSF was the replaced one) and swaped them over, on fault code bar the 2.8
Any way it went for an MOT and only failed on brake pipes, The local test centre whos moto “Helping You on the Road to Happiness” never even mentioned the ABS light.
