MaxyMan

MaxyMan

Well-Known Member
Hi all,
I've got 16" shocks on the rear of my 90 and am waiting for some jointed trailing arms to arrive as me cranked ones are stopping the axle from going any further,

Question, what can I do with the A frame joint?? I've seen some people use spacers so it drops further but surely this would still have the same resistance on the pivot/ drop/ movement of the axle.

I see qt services & addrenalin do jointed A- frames but £200 odd seems a lot of money for what it is. Any other solutions to this? Adjustable joints from Gwyn Lewis any better?

I haven't come across any "wide angle" joints yet but have heard of them.

Let me know ya thaughts.
cheers
 
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What are 16" over standard? I have plus 5 on minke and don't know what's stopping mine now,

Just rember to drop an extra inch on one side you need to be able to go up an inch on the other ;)

Check the clearance of you bump stops.
 
There mounted 8/9" higher than normal matey if that's what you mean i don't quite get ya?
So your running plus 5's and mine is plus 16 if ya get me?
Tis not the bump stops either, at the minute it's trailing cranked arms but got some jointed ones on there way.
Am just wondering if people have done anything with there a frame joint as I can see that limiting it?
 
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You can buy ones with more travel / twist, long and short is if your wanting massive travel might be better making a 4link set up
 
I don't think I've ever really heard of anyone having problems with axle articulation due to the a frame balljoint :s
 
Yeh, cheers wolf, I would of thaught it would limit the articulation in some way?? This why I'm curious these companies are making jointed ones now, and a lot of twist off challenge 90s are running them?
Never mind!
Will fit the jointed arms and see what it does :rolleyes:
 
Unless you're doing anything extreme I wouldn't have thought there's any reason to change it from standard. It's done fine for decades up to now
 
Ill chime in on this:

Flick over to Devon4x4 and read some of the thread on there, a lot of the challenge boys don't use jonny joints as they can break. A tougher version of the original or a 4 link as has been suggested might be a better option, but then your getting into fabricating your own mounts onto a defender axle, you have to get your geometry right. Clive at blacksheep(preesbrake) might be worth a PM or a phone call he knows all about fabrication.
 
GINGE said:
Ill chime in on this:

Flick over to Devon4x4 and read some of the thread on there, a lot of the challenge boys don't use jonny joints as they can break. A tougher version of the original or a 4 link as has been suggested might be a better option, but then your getting into fabricating your own mounts onto a defender axle, you have to get your geometry right. Clive at blacksheep(preesbrake) might be worth a PM or a phone call he knows all about fabrication.
Click to expand...

Says all knows nothing;)

Johnny joints are a pita because the bolt ratio to physical size is poor, full size ones are strong but huge!

Why are you making the back end floppy , you need a balanced truck so the front end needs work.

Secondly long rear travel causes a lot of rear steer , so the way round this is to install longer trailing arms though this means moving the fuel tank on a 90
 
Brilliant thanks for that,
This is what I'm looking at http://bit.ly/1apNpP9 made by tornado Motorsport.

I understand about making the back "floppy" etc haha,
Dont worry the front is getting work as well with large shocks but that's about it. I'm just thinking with the jointed rear arms I can get the full use of the shocks. I wouldn't of thaught this would make it flop about too much more than it does already? ;)
 
I've got enough articulation on the rear for now anyway, I wonder how much is left in the shock if its binding on the trailing arms?

Does anyone know what a +5 shock measures eye to eye closed and open?

And what's the simplest way to achieve more articulation on the front? I have gwynlewis stuff on mine front +2" challenge turrets with +5" dampers but have nowhere near the travel I do on the rear, is this the radius arms stopping it?

Pic
3976D7BA-A857-4EF6-B2A6-60066E58BF43.jpg
 
Heavyer duty springs? Factory steering linkages? You got cranked arms on the front?
I've got 3"hd springs on the front just to hold the weight better without sagg so it doesn't flex anywhere near it should do, am only running plus 5 on the front but am not too bothered as the shocks never reach what they can unless I spend silly money on new steering linkages and arms etc etc. Mainly focused on the back for now however silly it may sound ;)
 
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warrior said:
I've got enough articulation on the rear for now anyway, I wonder how much is left in the shock if its binding on the trailing arms?

Does anyone know what a +5 shock measures eye to eye closed and open?

And what's the simplest way to achieve more articulation on the front? I have gwynlewis stuff on mine front +2" challenge turrets with +5" dampers but have nowhere near the travel I do on the rear, is this the radius arms stopping it?

Pic
3976D7BA-A857-4EF6-B2A6-60066E58BF43.jpg
Click to expand...

Yes the radius arms are the limiting factor, suspension travel is not articulation something which in the landrover world doesnt seem to be understood
 
Are you sure it is the A-frame that is limiting your suspension travel?

When I fitted the X-springs, I played about with a couple of jacks and found that the maximum extension on my +5 shocks was the limiting factor rather than the Gwyn Lewis ball joint. With the shocks removed I had another 4 inches of droop travel. By slackening off the trailing arms at the chassis end, that droop increased even more. The springs stopped upward travel long before shocks bottomed out.

There is a recent thread on LR4x4 about the Tornado arms. I would be interested to see how you get on with them, they are on my shopping list due to the **** quality cranked ones I bought last time.
 
Yeh I'll put the tornado arms on and hoping to see a big increase. I'll put some photos up when it's done.
 
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